Comments:
Anybody have a good source for OEM oil filters? I don't wish to pay the $15+ that the dealer wants. Also, anyone heard any information on the new Passat TDI-V6 that is now out in Germany. When will it be coming to the states?

Comments:
To Ric from Oviedo Fl:...No Ric, I will not be glad to see a major war or global economic crisis break out because I own a TDI. I did not buy my TDI Jetta for the purposes of disaster insurance. I just said that in all honesty(for those considering a TD )that saving money is not the largest attribute of owning a diesel. Even if it's only 14 cents a gallon more for diesel fuel in Florida the cost advantage, in the long run, is still relatively small. The same is true about spending 3X the amount for syn hetic oil. Spending your days being concerned wondering just how expensive engine oil can get you an extra MPG or two is just plain anal. I agree with the other "anonymous" writer to this web-site on the subject of continuous oil-talk,,,"GET A LIFE!!!" ike...Out...

Comments:
I am thinking about blocking the EGR on my TDI, but I am concerned that I my damage the engine. My concern stems from a past VW diesel(1982)I had and put 250,000 miles on,and a 86 Jetta (gas) with 240,000. I don't know if these had EGR systems,I left them stock. Has anyone put this kind of mileage on a TDI with the EGR in place. I want to get the same kind of life out of the TDI and not cause it harm Thanks Bernie

Comments:
BOB....with Indigo GOLF A4 Lux package. Sounds like you got a great price. I will be getting the same model car with the Lux pack also. and now have some idea of what deal to hold out for. May I ask...did you check with Ray Burnette...and what kind of deal, impressions did you get from them. I take it you did not purchase the CD changer. Most dealers are asking $700 at first..but settling for $350 or so. It's kinda like the $150 pinstripe game.

Comments:
#1 heating oil is exactly the same as #1 (winter) diesel fuel. #2 heating oil is exactly the same as #2 (summer) diesel fuel.

Comments:
Anyone know if light heating oil (stove oil #1) is any thing comparable to diesel fuel at the pumps. Some say its exactly the same, but i need more convincing. Cheers.

Comments:
Just one more comment, I think I am going to try shifting at the 2,000 rpm mark for a couple of tanks of fuel. Maybe I will convert if my mileage jumps to new levels (like consistantly over 50mpg). I doubt it though, my highway driving often exceeds 70mph. Happy TDI'ing -Ian

Comments:
Hi, someone wanted to know of anyone who shifts high (> 3,000 rpms) and still gets great mileage. Well in my Passat which is 450 lbs. heavier than the Jetta I have never seen my mileage fall below 43 mpg. I average 47 - 48 mpg. and I have seen 52 mpg., OW FOR THE SCARY PART. I have never shifted my car below 2,500 rpms. I routinly drive my car to 3,000 - 4,000 rpms. I tried shifring at 1,800 rpms. on my way home from work (I found it uninspiring if not difficlt). I wouldent say I beet the hell out of my car, but I am also not easy on her either. If I need to merge into traffic I will run her right up to the point just below where the power drops out. If driving my nearly 4,000 lb. Passat means that I'll get 2-3 mpg less than others, so be it. I kee a log of all of my mileage at fill up. I have only noticed a slight drop in mileage during the winter months. Everyone has their own personality and their own reasons for driving the car they do. No-body has bruised my ego, and I don't want to bruise nyone elses. Happy TDI'ing... PS (I think that my car uses more oil than other readers have posted, I feel that is probably due to my driving Habbits, Thanks -Ian.

Comments:
Still regarding this whole EGR mess. I am prepared to block mine but am still researching the whole thing. I looked up "EGR Valve" in yahoo.com and altavista.com and have been reading stuff. the Mercedes EGR site describes how they have now incorporated t e EGR system into the cylinder head of their diesel so that the exhaust goes directly from the exhaust ports over to the intake ports never leaving the head and therefore conserving heat by keeping it in the coolant rather than losing the heat in the tube on its way back up to the intake manifold like the TDI does. They also claim that the EGR is allowing for more efficent combustion by lowering the ignition temperature. That sounds strange to me since the combustion temperature I would think is based on e ergy content. Am I wrong? Anyway I am still weighing the pro's and con's. I know that plugging the EGR helped my gas cars get better mileage. One other thing. I don't think that the oil and carbon in the air inlet hoses that people are describing is from he EGR. The EGR induces the exhaust inside the manifold just before the air goes into the intake valves. If anything the inside of the manifold would be black not the piping leading from the turbo to the manifold. Maybe the oil and gunk is from the turbo earing seal. Maybe that is allowing oil and exhaust to cross over into the intake side of the turbo.

Comments:
Has anyone tried the upgrade chip available from Wetterauer for the TDI? How badly did it impact fuel economy? Assuming I have to wait until my warranty runs out I'll have at least a year or two before I'll put it in but I'm just interested to see if th re are any comments about it. Shawn

Comments:
Bypassing the EGR is an interesting modification. I know the TDI is already very high in NOx - in fact it's right at the EPA max. limit (at least for the 98). On the other hand I fully agree with the notion that replacing the engine/car 5 years earlier auses much more real pollution. Ken and Philip, please keep posting about your progress.

I bought my TDI because I like the power and speed. I drive like Jehu and still get 40 mpg (37 in winter). I've taken the car to redline several times. Why? Because I can. The shifting guide in the manual is for optimum fuel consumption, not performanc . If you shift at 1800 rpm, you never reach peak torque (1900 rpm) and are developing only 70 hp. It's just no fun :(

I made the leap. I just ordered 5 gals. of NOPEC biodiesel and 10 gals. of Topaz Syndiesel (http://www.hiperfuels.com/). The biodiesel should reduce the smoking but has fewer btu/gal. The syndiesel seems pretty hot - Ric, skip this part ;-). It has ar und 15% more btu/gal than regular diesel and a cetane rating of 63!! I'm going to do some hotroding out by the farm when the weather warms up. By the way Jess Hewitt from hiperfuels sent me two long informative emails on his products. Email me if you w nt me to forward them to you.

Drive fast, drive slow but walk if you can....D'nardo

Comments:
Hi. I like the new message board. It has a "VW Vortex for TDI" feel to it. Hopefully it'll be a little easier to read what I want to read without having to sift through every post (like on this message board). BTW, I still love the info found in this gu stbook, but I don't care for the new background. Apparently, it has to reload each time I scroll down to read messages, slowing the reading process. What a drag! I hope the new message board takes off! Looks great! Take Care...

Comments:
To Jim Lundgreen and all of those who have seen black oily soot accumulation in the intake manifolds: I hope that what was written in my message posted twice on Feb. 15th, 10.19 am. is right, otherwise we have a problem. To Ric Woodruff: the driving-style RPM gear shift threshold that you mentioned started an amusing discussion relevant to how men are supposed to drive their diesels, but actually you all forgot the ACTUAL problem the discussion started from. The bloody EGR puts exhaust carbon where clean compressed air should be, and already oil is a non-welcome contaminant. I have personally driven my car always shifting around 2000 rpm., but still oil and carbon contaminate my intake system well beyond acce table limits.

Comments:
NEW TDI MESSAGE SECTION In Beta Testing

Hi Everyone. I have now setup a new message board at this link.

Please come and have a look. If it works fine and there is enough demand, I will probably register the software giving us our very own dedicated TDI message board....:)

Enjoy...Fred

Comments:
Well guys, I guess I dropped a "bombshell" that revealed an uxepectedly high number of TDI drivers that "missed the boat" when it comes to using a transmission properly. Page 95 of the Owner's Manual for the 1998 Jetta states in a paragraph entitled "Dow shift Only When The Engine Is No Longer Running Smoothly": "Depending on the transmission you have, you can normally drive in the highest gear at 25 to 37 miles (per hour)(40 to 60 km/h) on flat land and still be able to accelerate". When I upshift into th gear at 1800 RPM, the vehicle speed is right at 40 MPH, which is actually well ABOVE VW's conservative range of "25 to 37 MPH". I hope I haven't bruised too many egos, I am just trying to set the facts straight. I average right at just over 50 MPG. I ould like to hear from someone who routinely revs high (3000+ RPM) who gets mileage like that. Happy TDI'ing!

Comments:
Russell, I've been using a Techtonics 2 1/2 inch cat back exhaust system (stock system is 2") for about 15,000 miles now. The HUGE resonator was replaced with a tiny little bubble shaped resonator and the muffler was replaced with a Borla 'staight-through flow' muffler. Unfortunately, I havent seen any oticeable mileage improvements. I did get a little more power though only at full throttle during mid-range & high RPM's.

Comments:
Keep on laughing if you will, but I used to tow my 3,000 boat all the time with my 62 HP Isuzu diesel...no problems.

Comments:
TDI Man, been to NAPA many times but they don't have my filter listed. I even took the one in that I got at the dealer and they couldn't help me. Is yours a spin on? It isn't on the new TDI. Cartridge now and $17.00 at the dealer which sucks. The good thi g is that it is a breeze to change and you don't drip a drop of oil on anything cause it lifts out of the chamber from the top of the engine. I have been hearing stories of how difficult the old design was with oil running down the engine and needing an o l pan under the filter to remove. Not so anymore. Oh by the way you have to expect that people are going to drive these engines for maximum efficency otherwise we would have gas engines.

Comments:
Get real guys. I mean, towed 2600 lbs with a Jetta TDI? I'm laughing so hard I think I just wet my pants. I tell you what: next time, try towing 2600 lbs from Dallas to Chicago. Maybe, just maybe, you will make it to Oklahoma City where you can have t e tranny/clutch replaced. Shifting at 2000 RPM? Geeez, is that for real? Give'r hell buddy, our Jetta TDI's were meant be driven hard (ie., like a man) whilst providing the pleasure of "acceptable" acceleration. Drive the car (not the opposite), any hing else is just uncivilized. Global Warming? according to whom, pal? Up north, we have not seen a warm day (40 F or higher) since October. Long live our internal combustion engines because I love the smell of Diesel in the morning. Let's ride! Use oil filter NAPA Gold 1191 w/Shell Rotella 10/30. Best combination and is cheap! Love the car, but the high RPMs at cruise really suck. I mean 2800 RPM at 80 MPH is not cool at all and I wish it was more in the 2200 RPM range.

Comments:
Jay, no the oil changes are not an option. VW's warranty covers all scheduled service for the first 2 years 24,000 miles. That includes oil filters etc. I changed my own between the 0 and 5,000 mark as well as between the 5,000 and 10,000 mile mark. I wil most likely change it twice between the 10,000 and 20,000 mile mark. You will find that you are happy to have VW pay the bill once you buy your first oil filter... they cost $17.00 and the dealer is the only place that carries them right now because they changed them on the TDI to the type that Mercedes uses. It is now a cartridge that is dropped into a chamber from the top of the engine you then screw the cap back on. I must say that I don't agree with shifting that soon. It can't be good for the engine. It takes the same amount of energy to go 0 to 30 or 40 or 50. I feel that if you make the engine deliver the energy with so few explosions each explosion has to be bigger which means more force on the connecting rods and crank shaft at a point where there isn't maximum oil pressure.(you are almost at idle) I use light throttle but hold it there and let the engine accelerate the car. One thing you might try is starting from a light and using apporx 1/3 of the throttle travel, you will feel how the engine co es to life starting at about 2,000 rpm and really is an eager beaver. Below that it feels like you are waking a sleeping giant. I generally shift between 2,500 and 3,000 and keep up with traffic while using very light throttle. Think of yourself riding a 5 speed bike. Was it easier on the legs to keep the peddles going at a medium rate or to shift into 15th. right away? Engines are the same. The parts are floating on a film of oil so its best to keep the load light and the oil pressure up. Just my opinion

Comments:
Synthetic Oil: Royal Purple (also their Long Rider brand) and AMSOIL are two brands that have a fully synthetic oil for diesel engines. On another note: it's sad that the the Jetta no longer has an identity of it's own. One used to be able to easily to istinguish it from the Passat. No longer.

Comments:
Jay, no the oil changes are not an option. VW's warranty covers all scheduled service for the first 2 years 24,000 miles. That includes oil filters etc. I changed my own between the 0 and 5,000 mark as well as between the 5,000 and 10,000 mile mark. I wil most likely change it twice between the 10,000 and 20,000 mile mark. You will find that you are happy to have VW pay the bill once you buy your first oil filter... they cost $17.00 and the dealer is the only place that carries them right now because they changed them on the TDI to the type that Mercedes uses. It is now a cartridge that is dropped into a chamber from the top of

Comments:
Can someone explain the "free" oil changes from VW? Is this optional? What do they do for free? Regarding the shift point. When I rented a diesel in Europe, one of the things I played with was the shift point. I would say the 1800 to 2000 was the ideal place to shift. This was not a TDI. I have always been told diesels are low RPM engines and this experience proved it. It took much longer to get to 3500 - 4000 RPM than to just shift at 2000. I asked Castrol if they had any synthetic oil for the 99 TDI and they said they only had a blend. Anyone know if CG-4 comes in synthetics? I am aware of Delvac 1. Any others? I sure hope I get my car soon! Two weeks ago my car was totaled and I really want it!

Comments:
I remember reading some previous posts regarding a weak spring in the clutch pedal which prevents the clutch pedal from coming out all the way once my foot is no longer pressing it in. I would like to hear from people who have experienced such a problem. The dealer is telling me that the clutch mechanism is only covered for 12,000 miles because it is a wear and tear item. I can remember reading that there is a tech service buletin out there regarding this problem, maybe a recall? The pedal ends-up gett ng stuck about one inch from the very top, you can pull on the pedal and it comes right up to where it should be. I think that it is only the spring that is too weak to bring it up. The dealer wants 90 bucks for labor plus the cost of the spring. I now have 28500 miles on the car. Any sugestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.

Comments:
P.S. I have towed a 2600 lb. vehicle, and shifted my TDI at 2000 RPM. I was able to accelerate just fine without any lugging. Don't knock something until you have tried it!

Comments:
The absolute BEST RPM to shift at is just past the point of lugging. 1800 RPM is not just barely above the point of lugging, it is at a comfortable margin above lugging. Sure, if you are going up a steep hill or are overloaded (weight), you are better o f shifting at a higher RPM, say 2000 or 2200, but for most driving, 1800 RPM is IDEAL. Along with shifting at a higher RPM is undoubtedly the proverbial "lead foot". This combination is easier on the drive train? I don't think so!

Comments:
Russell, FYI-Remove the catalytic converter from your vehicle and you've just committed a Federal EPA offense punishable by up to a $10,000. fine, not to mention the extra pollutants you're adding to the environment - even in Georgia, just something you may wish t consider

Comments:
Shift at 1,800 RPM's. Thats beyond conservative thats silly. You will do more good for your drive train by shifting at 3,000 RPM's or so. Your car was meant to be driven, so drive it. if you consistantly shift at 1,800 you will build up more carbon th n someone who shift's normally. These cars were build to be driven by drivers. They perform well on European roads where I'm sure people are not shifting at 1,800 RPM's.

Comments:
Regarding "LARGE build-up of black oily soot in the intake manifold" and catalytic converters: I suspect that the way you drive has an extreme effect on the soot build-up in both the intake manifold and the catalytic converter. If you drive conservativel by shifting to the next higher gear at 1800 RPM and give only slight throttle, you will still have decent acceleration and keep your engine components clean at the same time.

Comments:
With all the comments about removig the EGR lets go one step further and talk about removing the catalic converter. I think that the reduction in exhaust back pressure would do wonders for our fuel MPG. If you look under your car you will see a catalic onverter, a muffler and I guess the middle pan shapped chamber is a resonator. Any body know for sure? For all you people that are going to disablle the EGR, better wait until the 100k warranty is up, if VW sees it they will void the rest of your drivet ain warranty. If and when my convertor goes out I will not spend $500 to replace it, just cut if off and put a piece of straight pipe in there. By the way has anybody been doing oil analysis on there units I would like to compare the figures to mine. Also has anybody fitted a bypass filter system to there cars yet?

Comments:
With all the comments about removig the EGR lets go one step further and talk about removing the catalic converter. I think that the reduction in exhaust back pressure would do wonders for our fuel MPG. If you look under your car you will see a catalic onverter, a muffler and I guess the middle pan shapped chamber is a resonator. Any body know for sure? For all you people that are going to disablle the EGR, better wait until the 100k warranty is up, if VW sees it they will void the rest of your drivet ain warranty. If and when my convertor goes out I will not spend $500 to replace it, just cut if off and put a piece of straight pipe in there. By the way has anybody been doing oil analysis on there units I would like to compare the figures to mine. Also has anybody fitted a bypass filter system to there cars yet?

Comments:
I removed the air inlet tube between the intake and intercooler to gain more room to remove the !//%!! headlight (2 bulbs have already burned out) and found a LARGE build-up of black oily soot in the intake manifold. The build-up coated the butterfly val e (which must be for the EGR) and inside of the intake. Upstream, the intake pipe also was oily, but not with that thick black stuff. There are 38,000 highway miles (9 months old) and I've always used fully synthetic oil,(Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec) eve during the free oil changes. I'm concerned and wonder what the rest of the intake system looks like. Has anyone else noticed this? What is going on? This is my first diesel and I was hoping to make it last over 200K miles, but, the rate at which the s ot stuff is accumulating is alarming. Thanks for the help...Jim

Comments:
Mike, I am sorry about the fuel price discrepancies in your area, but I am sure it is the exception and not the rule. Where I normally buy diesel it is $1.03. Where I buy gas it is $.89, a 14 cent difference, and I live nowhere near an Interstate or tr ck stop. It is a fact that gas prices fluctuate a lot greater than diesel prices. Back in 1984 (when I got my first diesel), and typically since then, diesel has been priced between mid-grade and premium, or about 5 cents per gallon higher. Fuel prices now are extremely and unusually low. Once they rise again, you can bet diesel prices will be comparable with gas prices. The huge difference in fuel economy is well worth the current 14 cent difference in my neck of the woods. Hang in there. The next ime there is a major war or global economic crisis, you will be glad you drive what you do and can go 700 miles+ per tankful.

Comments:
Philip, I was kidding!!!! My work has Rush on all the live long day and I just giggle at the way he can contort anything to try to make a point. Any thinking person knows that we aren't helping the planet with what we do. I was just yanking Johnathan's ch in. Why don't you move to the US and enjoy the cheap fuel prices? I'll trade places with you. I have lived here my entire life and while it is a great standard of living it is also rather cookie cutter. You drive off any highway exit and you don't know if you're in Ohio or California. I hear Europe is getting that way too. I guess it's progress?

Comments:
Phillip, not to spark a political discussion, but let's not condemn the US, and then in the same breath discuss the UK's fuel prices. After all, in the world market, the difference between our relatively inexpensive and your expensive fuels is tax. Impo ed by your government, freely elected by your populace.

Comments:
Ken, I´m argue with you now, I don´t care what "Rush Limbaugh" says, the USA is amongst the biggest CO2 sinners, and has one of the best lifestyles, I don´t think that this is a coincidence. It´s very convenient for you guys with your gas gusslers to say hat global warming is nothing to do with CO2 isn´t it? And Mike, petrol maybe extremely cheap where you live, but it certainly isn´t here in Europe. I like diesels, but I couldn´t afford to run a petrol car. Petrol and diesel are both about $1US per litre ($4US per US gallon?). That´s why I´m buying a direct injection, I do 20,000 miles per year and it´s a big chunk of my income. In other (more intelligent!) European countries diesel is much cheaper than petrol too. These web pages are read by people outsi e of the US and Canada. I´ll see you guys when I get back from my 3 day trip to Paris; wish I had my Passat tdi to do it in :-(

Comments:
NEW BUYERS, BE AWARE not BEWARE!!There are several things this web-site should do and being honest is one of them. There are many new people asking our opinions about how we like our TDI and ask for our honest opinion. If you like diesels, fine. They are sure unique, but saving money should not be a good consideration. I live in the Chicago area. A popular gas station chain here is "SPEEDWAY GAS". Today's gasoline pump prices were 89.9 and the diesel price was 115.9. I'ts hard to convince a newcomer tha it's a good idea to spend an extra $1000 for a diesel engine so you can pay an extra 26 cents per gallon for fuel. I know diesel may be cheaper on the highway, but I don't live on an interstate. Perhaps long term maintenance may be cheaper, but that re ains to be seen. So for those of you who like diesels enough to consider buying one, you better LOVE them, because money is honestly NOT a big consideration in the choice for a diesel.Mike...Out...

Comments:
Ken, regarding your message about oil. I would trust your chart in the manual (per the VW recommendation over the phone). It indicates that 5W-40 oil is to be used for 60 deg. F and below. I would never use it a bit above that temperature. Someone (fr m Texas, I believe) recently had the comment that their engine is noisier using the thinner 5W-40 oil. That sounds scary to me! Additional noise due to metal to metal contact, maybe??? What about the additional engine wear if this is true?

Comments:
Johnathan, you drive too much!!! I'm glad you aren't disconnecting your EGR. It sounds like you might be the reason for global warming yourself. Rush Limbaugh just said today that global warming has nothing to do with our lifestyle. I guess there is now i formation that the wobble in the earth's orbit causes it to point the northern hemisphere twards the sun causing the heating, however this is cyclical and will go back the other way in the next 25,000 years or so. Just be patient.

Comments:
My decision to not defeat the EGR on my car may be rooted in my feelings of guilt about all those gallons of two stroke pre-mix I spewed into the air during my past. The 50 mph 50cc moped, the ported snowmobiles, the expansion chambered Yamaha RD-400, the 850cc SAAB that had a Napoleonic complex and raced anything. As a means of atonment, I am leaving my pollution equipment on the TDI in working condition, not out of martyrdom, just concience. I do not expect that this engine will be much different than ot ers I have owned and will likewise not experience an early demise due to purported EGR induced damage. I plan to still be driving this car far beyond the 265,000 miles of my previous car, and the 140,000 of the one prior, and the 175,000 of the one before that, and the 135,000 of the one before that. No apparent EGR problems in the lot. I do not waste recources by using up and then throwing away my cars. The last 7 of my 15 cars have been sold to new owners when each one had well over 100,000 miles, a few f them I still see on the road.

Comments:
Exactly what type of oil do I use in my TDI? I called the 800 number and VW said use CG-4 and go by the chart in the manual for temp requirements. My dealer said that he received a memo but didn't know what he did with it, so I called 3 other VW dealers i my area and none of them heard of such a thing. One dealer said that they use 5W-30 CD oil at their dealer.(non synthetic) HELP!!!!!! I guess I will try the 800 number again and ask them to get up from their desk and go read the bulletin board.

Comments:
Ken..Thanks for the observation about the heater core. I too have noticed that the smell is going away, so I guess it isn't the diesel exhaust after all. Dezlboy..My Golf is a '99 Dark Blue GLS TDI with the luxury package (alloy wheels, sunroof). I bou ht it at Martens VW in D.C. for $18,150 plus tax and tags. This price included the destination and processing fees, and I didn't have a trade in (I'll sell my old car myself). I think this was a good price, but they seemed willing to negotiate because th y already had this car on the lot. The dealership was great. They didn't hassle me at all, and I completed the transaction in one day. I had shopped at 3 other local dealers before deciding on Martens. They had the best price I could find and good ser ice. I hope this helps.

Comments:
I went in for my 10,000 mile service today. Since I am driving to Maine next week, I asked about the service notice switching to synthetic oil. After moments of blank stares, I was told they have no idea what I am talking about, and that they will bring it up with the VW service rep visiting next week. This is not very confidence inspiring for a factory dealer.

Comments:
Philip, Cleveland has been using natural gas busses for their in town shuttles that stay within the downtown area. They had a report on the news last month stating that they will not be replacing the busses due to high maintenance costs. It cost the city 40,000 more per bus over the deisel's for repairs during the same run interval. Bob, I too noticed the odor you are speaking of when I used the heat in my Beetle. I think it is the heater core that you are smelling rather than diesel fumes. The reason I say this is because my car is smelling less and less as time goes by.

Comments:
TALES FROM THE VW SERVICE DEPT....I Just had my 20,000 mile free TDI service check-up. I approached the service desk armed with my 20k mile service bulletin. My initials were scratched into the old fuel filter's side, I was ready to do battle..But much to my surprise the service manager knew all about it. He even said that "since this my last FREE service check we will throw in a new AIR filter as well". I did not know it even time for an air filter change. So I just wanted to relay to my fellow TDI'ers t at in at least my case, the dealer has caught-on.....Mike...Out..

Comments:
Bob from Maryland.. Tell us more about your Golf GLS TDI. Where did you buy it? Color? Options? etc.... I'm curious cause I am considering TDI also.

Comments:
I was just looking for some feedback on the jetta TDI, I'm thinking of purchasing one this spring and would like to know what current owners think of this car. Is this a good car? bad car? I'd like to hear what you all have to say! thanks

Comments:
SOL -- I can't believe you're selling yours. What happened? (Or are you getting a new '99 TDI?) By the way, while I think the price you're seeking is a fair deal (depending on miles, add-ons, etc.), I seem to remember that new 98 TDIs were going for on y a couple hundred bucks more than that last summer. Of course, those deals are long gone now, and any new TDI with a sunroof will costs $20K+. Anyway, I'm also wondering if anyone knows if the V99-05 service bulletin can be found online anywhere, so I could print it out and take it with me for my next (10K) service. If it's not currently available online, anyone know the easiest way to obtain i ?

Comments:
as helping that.

Comments:
Johnathan, I am with Philip on this. The EGR essentially is putting the most exhaust into the intake when you are attempting to drive efficently and maximize MPG. ie. light throttle. That is exactly why I want to do away with it. I did on my last two gas cars and noticed increased fuel mileage on trips. As I stated earlier I live on lake Erie where people are burning two cycle fuel and gas without any emission controls on the engines... I don't. I also own ASKO appliences which I purchased for far more money than Kenmore appliences cost simply due to the fact that they are energy efficent and use less detergent and no bleach (in the laundry equipnemt and dishwasher). They are also designed to last a minimum of 15 years. I want to keep my TDI that long but don't see the EGR as

Comments:
Regerding this EGR stuff... It is all Philip's fault. (Just kidding.) I never even thought to look for one on a TDI, anyhoo I was given stainless steel plates 1/16" thick by my brother to plug the exhaust manifold before it goes up the tube to the EGR. I am going to remove the EGR tube at the exhaust manifold and trace the the bracket that holds the tube to the manifold, cut it to shape drill the two bolt holes and put everything back. (like a gasket, as someone said e

Comments:
I've driven this car for two weeks, and I love it. This is my first diesel, and I don't think I will ever go back to a gasoline engine. However, I have noticed one problem. (Actually, I'm not sure it really is a problem) When driving at highway speeds w th the heater on, I can detect a slight smell of diesel fumes. When I decided to buy the TDI, I thought that all combustion exhaust would exit the tailpipe, not through the heating vents. Is this just a small amount of diesel that spilled on the engine d ring production/assembly, or should I have it checked to make sure that exhast isn't recirculating into the passenger compartment. I haven't become noticibly sleepy while driving, but I wouldn't want to die from carbon monoxide poisoning before I collect y first free oil change from VW :)

Comments:
FOR SALE: 1998 Jetta TDI, Red w/ Grey interior, moonroof. $14900/obo. Please email if interested.

Comments:
I brought my Jetta in for the 20K mile maintenance yesterday and showed the dealership the V99-05 service bulletin. They looked at me like I was an alien. But they check it out and used Valvoline 5w-30 100% synthetic. The engine is a bit noisier when w rm, but it does start more quietly. Also, for your 20K check-up, make sure they know the book states that the fuel filter will be replaced and timing belt will be re-tensioned. They did not know this either! The service writer seemed a little angry tha they were going to have to spend some money on my car. Notice that regardless of mileage, at 18-24 months there is another free maintenance issue. I forgot what it is so I'll have to look it up again. Meanwhile, let's see if there is an increase in fu l economy with this light weight oil! Happy TDI'ing.

Comments:
Jorge, I believe that the 115bhp Passat is very near in the rest of Europe. Diesel Car magazine tested one a few months ago. It is not yet listed as an available model in the UK though. You are entitled to buy a car anyway in Europe, so you don't have to ait until this car arrives in Portugal, I guess it would be easy for you to buy a car in Spain for example. Jonathan, you make some interesting points about the environment. I think that to "confuse" efficiency with cleanliness is not such a silly thing t do. In any case I'm not confused! Firstly as you say CO2 emissions are proportional to the fuel consumption, but also the process of refining and distributing the fuel uses energy, so the more economical a car is the better. Logically if a car used no fu l, then it would produce no emissions! Secondly your figures back me up saying that you can have less impact on the global environment (if not the local one) by driving one of the best diesels rather than an electric car. A car such as the new VW Lupo 3 c linder Tdi will produce less emissions than the share of emissions from a power station used to produce electricity for an electric car - but I'll guarantee that the authorities will not acknowledge it. Everyone has been telling us that diesels are "dirt " because they produce worse particulates (smoke) emissions, well here in Europe the latest research is starting to suggest otherwise. It is true that diesels produce larger amounts of PM10 particulate emissions (up to 10 micron particles) than petrol car ; this is the visible smoke which we see. The latest research suggests that petrol engines produce more PM2.5 emissions (older ones up to 4 times as much) than do diesels. You can't see PM2.5 (up to 2.5 micron particles) but they do more harm. Your lungs ave a natural ability to expell PM10 particles, as it basically amounts to dust, but PM2.5 particles are smaller than natural dust, they go deeper into the lungs and don't come out so easy. Here in England most of the PM10 particles in the air float in fr m mainland Europe and come from industry, they are nothing to do with transport. Another serious disadvantage is that emissions from a petrol engine degrade as the car is driven, the emissions control devices become less and less effective with age, with diesel engine this is much less so. The evidence comes from Lucas. All in all diesels ARE much cleaner than petrol engines AND they use less fuel. The UK government still insists on putting up diesel prices higher than petrol ones because of the smoke em ssions. Onto EGR, it may be that it would be illegal to disable the EGR on a US car, you give a fairly convincing case for saying that, but I live in Europe. It was not mandatory to have EGR on a 1996 car, many from other manufacturers don't. Petrol engin s cars have never had EGR here. I don't see why I should use an engine destroying practice when no one else is, that's not very fair; when the legislation comes, then I'll have to reconsider. It is my opinion that a technique which destroys the car engine is "a bad thing" period, I'm entitled to my opinion. On future cars there will be better ways to attack the NOx emissions. The car manufacturers are saying that the only thing which is stopping them from producing really effective catalytic converters for diesel engines is the level of sulphur in diesel fuel. Ultra low sulphur diesel is coming, you can already buy it here. It is only a matter of time before it's all you can buy. If a person lives in a city, especially one with a smog problem then maybe the shouldn't disable their EGR. That's not my situation, so I probably will. Maybe the best technology in the future will be fuel cell cars. These use methanol in a fuel cell and emit only CO2 and water. The mileage is unlimited as you just put more methano in the tank when it runs out. This should also keep the oil companies happy (don't underestimate their political power) as at least they could still sell something i.e. methanol. Do you have cars running on natural gas in the US? They are quite popular i certain parts of Europe, and I hear that they are very clean, if not very efficient.

Comments:
I had my oil changed at the dealer today. I mentioned several times that I knew about the bulletin. They were aware of it and said it was effective for 96 TDI and up. They used Castrol Syntec 5W-30. $5.50/quart ouch.

Comments:
Does anyone knows when the new diesel engine with 115 hp arrive to europe. I know that in Germany already exists the Passat with this engine, but outside germany, i didn't heard any notice Please write here in this excellent page ( Thanks fred) or write to my mail Thanks a lot

Comments:
Brendan: Why did you stop for gas?

Comments:
I went on a 1048 mile road trip this weekend and stopped for gas once. Avg. speed was probably 80mph and we had 3 people, bags and two bikes on top the car. Lots of cruise control, and lots of wind and straight roads. Looks like we got about 30mpg. Up to about 3000ft elevation and back down to 160ft in Austin. It was a great trip, the car liked the desert just fine. I'm starting to get a chirping sound on startup though. Sounds like a water pump, but I don't want to believe that. We'll see what develops. .. At the bike race I got a "that's a bitchin' car" from one of the racers. Not bad for a station wagon. :)

Comments:
Do not confuse "efficient" with "clean". The quantity of fuel consumed has almost no relationship to the amount of pollution produced as a by-product. My hypothetical 30 gallons of fuel in drinking water compared to 60 gallons of fuel burned was an appare tly poor way to demonstrate the difference between fuel consumption (efficiency )and emission production (pollution). My 30 gallons spilled is half the 60 burned by someone else, so I have produced half the pollution, right? In a perfect, theoretical world the oxidization of a hydrocarbon results in the release of heat by the recombinization of the Oxygen, Hydrogen and Carbon into water and carbon dioxide. A 15 mpg auto can therefore be both "cleaner" if it is burning the fue more completely, and less "efficient" if it turns less of the heat produced into motive work. That perfect combustion into only water and carbon dioxide is not possible given all the variables in the quality and purity of the initial ingredients and in t e combustion process. Less than total combustion and the presence of other impurities in the Oxygen, such as the 70% Nitrogen present in the atmosphere, create other by-products that have more harmful effects than the H2O and CO2. It it these other compou ds that are the reason for the abatement devices on the cars. The presence of these devices is due to our desire for cleaner air to breathe and our desire for cleaner water to drink. We demanded that an unspecified someone do an unspecified something to p event further degradation of our air and water quality. Our governments, acting on our collective behalf mandated that the manufacturers take steps to meet our wishes. In the US there are penalties imposed for non-compliance on both the manufacturer and t e vehicle owner. Periodic tests are used to check for compliance. Failure can mean the loss of the right to use the vehicle. The Manufacturer warrants the emission control devices for 70,000 miles against defect. After that time the owner is solely respon ible for the maintenance, repair, or replacement of these devices. Testing does not cease after a set mileage has been passed. The vehicle is always subject to tests to ensure continued compliance. This is where it gets interesting. I have yet to discover any state in the US which tests for NOx emissions. These oxides of Nitrogen are what the EGR valve is designed to reduce. They compounds are a major component of low altitude ozone and smog. The ma er of the vehicle is required to install and to warrant the device’s operation, yet I have found no regulating agency that tests them once the car is on the road. Massachusetts had adopted the California emission policies, including the requirement for a set percentage of Zero tailpipe Emission Vehicles beginning in a few years. California recently placed a moratorium on the ZtEV implementation due to the anticipat d breakthroughs in battery storage not coming to fruition, so the Mass. implementation is also delayed indefinitely. Battery power is not the only choice to meet this mandate. Zero tailpipe emissions can also be met by Hydrogen power (no CO2 emissions, wa er only) and hybrids provided that the hybrid is tested with the generator power turned off during the tests. In theory, I could disable any car’s fuel pump, pull into the test site using the starter motor, and claim that the car is electric with an onboa d generator. No one has yet decided the minimum range before recharging, so 50 meters at 5 mph should be enough to be classifies as a hybrid. The emission tests here in Mass. check for levels of CO, CO2 and HC only, and then only on gasoline powered vehicles under a certain gross weight. Diesel powered vehicles are totally exempt from all emission tests here. By Massachusetts state law I have t meet the California compliance requirements, but there is no test! The TDI and other modern design diesels convert a higher percentage of the heat energy in the diesel fuel into motive work than do most gasoline engines. The diesel will use fewer gallons of fuel for the same amount of work performed. With less hydrocarbo being converted into CO2 there will be less of this greenhouse gas emitted. Other compounds especially the visible soot and smoke are emitted at higher levels than from a gasoline engine. Diesels are cleaner. Diesels are dirtier. You decide. Neither gasoline nor Diesel powered engines are as efficient as electric generating stations. I have seen efficiency reports on different types of power based on the BTU heat available per quantity of fuel consumed compared to the work output. These numbe s have undoubtedly changed since then either bu technological advances of by the haze of foggy memory, but I suspect that the relationship remains similar. Gasoline engined autos convert roughly 15 to 20% of the fuel BTU into motive work, Diesels roughly 25 to 35%, large electric power plants burning coal or oil 55 to 60%, DC electric motors 80 to 90%. Since the DC motor efficiency did not account for transmission and drive train losses as if used in an auto, the actual value might be 60 to 80%. Fifty fi e percent of the BTU energy in coal is converted into electricity, 60% of that is turned into motion, a result in 33% efficiency. That is higher than gasoline and among the best for diesels. Stationary sites are easier and less expensive per quantity of pollutant removed to clean. A 200 mega watt fossil fueled power station will produce more pollution than a 200 kilo watt engine. It will also produce far less pollution than 1000 200 kw engine and will use less than half the fuel while doing so. It is more efficient and cleaner simultaneously.

Comments:
This weekend on a highway trip, I noticed that my Jetta does not seem to have the power it used to. Also, when starting the engine, it immediately revs to 2,000 RPM before going quickly to normal idle speed. I am 99% sure my fuel filter is clogging. I ave seed the reving before, and I believe it was before a filter change. I have only 14,000 miles on the filter. Has anyone else had a filter clog before it's time (20,000 change interval) or engine rev like mine? Thanks.

Comments:
To Jonathan Bartlett, what has defeating an EGR valve got to do with pouring diesel into drinking water? If disabling the EGR valve means that the engine will last longer, then that is good for the environment. Consider the environmental impact of making car. Read my earlier posting by searching this page for "Takashi Suzuki". VW have to design their cars to produce the lowest emissions from the factory, for all sorts of political and marketing reasons, as well as for regulatory reasons. They don't consi er what the emissions will be like at 100,000 miles or more. Maybe a car which has been using EGR for 100,000 or 200,000 miles will produce more pollution than one which hasn't. Why does the British government tell me that my 45mpg diesel is more pollutin than the 15mpg Jaguars that government ministers drive around in? and why does the public believe them? When it comes to environment it is sometimes better to think for yourself. I believe that the Californians are trying to push electric cars at the mom nt, did you know that driving an electric car produces more pollution that a modern diesel? (though probably less than a Yank tank). A diesel engine is more efficient than a power station and that's a fact. The electric car then also makes the situation w rse because the act of storing the electricity and pulling it back out of the batteries produces more inefficiencies. All an electric car achieves is "moving" the pollution to where the power station is. OK you can use wind and solar sources to produce el ctricity for your cars, but they don't right now, and I don't suppose we will in a hurry here in cramped and cold Europe.

Comments:
.....oops, one more thing. When I removed the tubes that lead compressed air to the EGR valve, I have noticed a quite big amount of oil inside them up to the valve intake; this is a thing I had never seen before on non-turbocharged gas engines. My oil co sumption figures are quite normal (up to 16.000 km. I have not been forced to add more than 1.5 liters of oil).Maybe this big amount of oil derives from the intake system geometry, where oil vapours are of course recycled before the compressor intake (to void turbo pressure discharging back into the engine crankcase)and thus they have a very long path through plastic tubes and intercooler heat exchanger to condensate before being sucked inside the EGR valve intake. I personally do not like too much the id a of oil spray passing through the compressor blades and variable geometry difuser, but this is much less of a problem than a turbine shaft bearing leakage anyhow..... Any experience and advice is well appreciated. Thanks a million.

Comments:
.....oops, one more thing. When I removed the tubes that lead compressed air to the EGR valve, I have noticed a quite big amount of oil inside them up to the valve intake; this is a thing I had never seen before on non-turbocharged gas engines. My oil co sumption figures are quite normal (up to 16.000 km. I have not been forced to add more than 1.5 liters of oil).Maybe this big amount of oil derives from the intake system geometry, where oil vapours are of course recycled before the compressor intake (to void turbo pressure discharging back into the engine crankcase)and thus they have a very long path through plastic tubes and intercooler heat exchanger to condensate before being sucked inside the EGR valve intake. I personally do not like too much the id a of oil spray passing through the compressor blades and variable geometry difuser, but this is much less of a problem than a turbine shaft bearing leakage anyhow..... Any experience and advice is well appreciated. Thanks a million.

Comments:
Regarding EGR matter, I have seen that the easiest way to go would be to dismount the exhaust/intake bypass,and substitute one or both of the gaskets interposed between the bypass and the cast intake/exhaust manifolds with some sort of "fake" gasket (e.g. a steel sheet approximately 1 mm. thick, cut to shape and with the two mounting bolts holes) without any hole in the middle.... that won' t be seen, will not cause any vacuum shortage to the EGR valve to show up to the electronic controllers and should w rk as well as the "iron plugs". Maybe the EGR valve does not work through all the engine range and loads, but I have found that after 16.000 km. the intake manifold is already COMPLETELY BLACK with soot, stained by a thick disgusting mixture of oil and carbon that for no reasons in the orld I would like to see even at the exhaust of a car that costs more than 30 million lire (18.000 US $). I have no intentions to leave my car keep on breathing that kind of s..t (".." should mean "oo", but any other suggestion is welcome). Let the nature conservation matters be, the only way to do something for nature is walking instead of driving.

Comments:
Man this car is great! Not only is the new beetle great, the TDI engine is wonderful also. I'm getting over 50 miles to the gallon. And it seems as if I have a giant kitten under my hood, with the gentle puurrrrrrr.

Comments:
Tom, could you be not reving your TDi enuf? The max torque is at 1900 RPM and it doesn't flatten out until past 2500 RPM (?). So...maybe if you give it a bit more gas (er, fuel), the car will be more efficient???? On my test drives, I would shift to next gear at 3000 or 3200 (just seemed a good match of speed and not over reving). Comments appreciated. [DEZLBOY] formally

Comments:
Peter, Based on the Maintenance Manual for my '86 Golf, I agree with you on the drain intervals for Turbo/non-turbo. The manual states that drain intervals for TurboDiesel engines is 5000 miles. The drain interval for non-Turbo engines is 7500 miles. As f r the Delvac 1, you are welcome. I figure one 5 gallon drum will equal one year of oil changes between my two VW's.

Comments:
Just a quick comment about Service Circular V 99-05. It does not mention an API rating. Therefore, the API rating that is in the manual must still apply. The manual calls for CF4 CG4, 5W30. Is Delvac 1 available in 5W30? Hi Peter, the Civic is still for sale.

Comments:
TO TOM FROM SCOTTSDALE ARIZONA: THE FUEL MILEAGE THAT YOU MENTION IS WHERE I WAS AT WITH MY JETTA. THE PARTS INSIDE THE ENGINE NEED TIME TO ACQUAINT WITH EACH OTHER. I NOTICED FUEL MILEAGE INCREASE AT 8 TO 10 THOUSAND MILES. HOPE THIS HELPS. DAVE

Comments:
DeeBee, I would think that the oil drain interval for a turbo motor should be shorter than a non-turbo motor, don't you think? I, too was considering 15k mile drain intervals using Delvac 1 and with filter changes every 5k until I can get and mount a Can on/Mecca filter. And thanks, DeeBee, ror the tip on the five gallon drum of Delvac 1. Tom, 'your mileage may vary', but it does take about 15,000 miles for the engine to loosen up (at least it did for me). During break-in, VW uses a special break-in oi . When your engine is broken in, synthetics will help your mileage. Glad to see you here, Olli, did you sell that Civic?

Comments:
Ken from Cleveland wrote, regarding defeating the EGR,"Somehow I don't think disconnecting my EGR will be the last straw that causes the whole eco system to collapse, after all I am driving a car that gets double the mileage of the average car..." He left no private e-mail address so this message for him is now for all. If I pour 30 gallons of diesel fuel oil into the drinking water supply, am I polluting less than the person who burns 60 gallons to drive around? How does defeating the EGR mitigate the dam ge that we all are doing? We are all burning fossil fuels. We are all polluting this planet. I'd prefer to keep my share to the minimum. The EGR valve is a proportioning system. It is not an open and closed valve. The amount of opening is controlled by a ultitude of sensors. The amount of valve opening under normal engine operation is minimal and only a tiny fraction of exhaust gasses are re-circulated. In addition, the valve is only active during specific portions of the engine's operation. It is not use at engine temperatures under 122 F. It is not used at all above an unspecified "part throttle position switch closed" position. It is not used at all at engine speeds above 3200 rpm regardless of throttle position. It is not used at all at altitudes over 3300 feet. It is completely closed for two seconds when the engine speed exceeds 1200 rpm. Whatever "benefits" you (the group) seek by defeating the EGR are likely to be less than for which you had hoped.

Comments:
I purchased my beetle approximately 2 1/2 months ago and have approximately 2,800 miles on it. The mpg ratings are 42 city, 49 highway, but I'm only getting 35 to 37 in town. Is there a break-in period where the mileage is lower? or am I reving the engi e too much. I try to keep the RPM's below 2300 and below 2000 as much as possible. Appreciate any thoughts anyone might have.

Comments:
Ric, The maintenance manuals you are looking at are for '98 VW's. My deisels are an '86 and a '91 with the old but reliable 1.6L IDI engines. The maintenance manuals for these particular model years call for a 7500mi / 6 month oil change interval. I appr ciate your concern. However, I can assure you that when I purchase a Jetta or Passat TDI, the drain interval will most likely be 15000mi.

Comments:
Hi, I haven't posted much in a while. Many people have requested that I put my TDI Wave files on my website. They're now available! One is of the TDI at start-up and idle... the other is of a 0-60 spint taken from within the airbox (the turbo sounds S EET!). Visit my webpage and follow the VW link. The sound files are toward the bottom of the page. Take Care...

Comments:
Gene, NOT TRUE. I was able to get a hard copy of V 99-05. What you saw posted previously was 100% factual. Not all dealers are up to speed on this Service Circular yet. Speak to the Service Manager and quote the Service Circular #. IT IS REAL and he can't deny ts existance. Call VW and ask for a copy. BTW, my owners manual specifies 5W-30. I picked up my NB yesterday. Love it! The TDI is FANTASTIC!!!!!!

Comments:
I checked with my dealer and they said the 5W30 synthetic technical bulletin was for gas engines. They still use 15W40 CD-4 oil.

Comments:
DeeBee, Page 4 of the Maintenance 1998 booklet states in the 2nd block of the chart on the left side of the page that the oil change is to be changed every 12 months. The 3rd block states, and I quote " If the vehicle is driven 10,000 miles/15,000 km in ess than a year, an Oil Change is required". This means that the interval is 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. For most TDI owners, THIS MEANS THAT THE OIL IS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TEN THOUSAND (10,000) MILES, plain and simple. This is wh I say that I would go to 15,000 mile oil change interval with Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic.

Comments:
Ric, The manuals for my VW's call for a 7500mi oil change interval. The oil analysis will enable me to determine if it is possible to go up to 15000mi with no drawbacks. I plan to sell my Dodge Ram and buy a Jetta IV TDI. Too bad the moonroof is not available n the GL.

Comments:
DeeBee: You plan to change the Delvac 1 oil that often (10,000 miles)??? The interval for STANDARD oil is that often (per the manual). I would go at least 15,000 miles. Also, if there is a Flying J Truck Stop near you, you might try there for Delvac 1. I think it is quite a bit cheaper there than what you are paying. Happy TDI'ing!

Comments:
Ian, I just bought a 5 gallon drum of Delvac 1 today for $84.75. I think over the long run the price works itsef into the longer drain intervals. I have been changing the oil in my VW's at 5000mi, and in my truck at 7500mi. With Delvac 1, I plan to change the oil at 10000mi, and 15000mi respectively. I also plan to have an oil analysis done after the second Delvac 1 drain interval. Judging from what you are paying ($5.50/quart), you may want to ask your distributor for the 5 gallon drums. My price per quart is $4.24.

Comments:
FOR SALE---FOR SALR---FOR SALE---FOR SALE--- FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA PASSAT TDI 96 GREEN 61K MILES EXTRA CLEAN CONDITIONS NEVER CRASH, NO PAIN JOB ALL BOOKS & RECORDS, NEW YOKOHAMAS 6 DISC CD CHANGER, SUN ROOF CALL ME 407-353-7676 ALREADY ORDER A NEW JETTA TDI FOR MARCH. LET`S TALK ABOUT PRICE CALL ME

Comments:
A few comments on some recent entries. Regarding distilled water and cooling systems, the $1.50 it costs to use distilled is probably worth it considering you flush the system every 2 years. As a groundwater hydrogeologist, tap water quality varies greatl and usually contains considerable dissolved minerals such as carbonates and salts. Simply put, I think it's worth the extra $1.50, also I'll use it to top off the battery if needed. Regarding oil changes on the Passat, they aren't fun, but are much easier if you first jack the car up and remove the protective shroud under the engine compartment. Three 10mm bolts underneath, and 2 allen head screws from each of the front wheel wells, then pull the shroud back toward the rear of the car and it pulls away from the front of the engine compartment. With the shroud off, get to the oil filter from below with a filter wrench. With one of the "free" oil changes at the dealer, they didn't tig ten the oil filter causing a leak, the filter wasn't even hand tight. I tighten the new filter about 1/4 to 1/8th turn with the filter wrench just to make sure it's snug. Been using Delvac 1 it's costing $68.00 (including tax)for a case of 4-1 gallon con ainers, oil consumption is about 0.5qts per 5000 miles. Happy Motoring

Comments:
I have heard that diesel exhaust is not as harmful to the environment as gas exhaust. I that not true? Even so, I live on a great lake and all summer long I smell jetski two cycle exhaust and power boat exhaust with 3 people on board that is running full hrottle with two V8 engines lugging their asses around for fun. Somehow I don't think disconnecting my EGR will be the last straw that causes the whole eco system to collaps. After all I am driving a car that gets double the mileage of the average car not to mention the 5,000lb. SUV's that are taking over the roads. + I passed every pollution test with flying colors on my gas cars with the EGR's disconnected. One question. Will a diesel go into a runaway condition on synthetic oil? Is it flammable?

Comments:
Wow, Ian! That sh!* is expensive! You go 10k between changes?!? Wow! I used to do that with my Subaru, but I was using Mobil-1 with a Mobil-1 oil filter. I don't know if I'd feel comfortable with that kind of service interval with this car. Maybe I' l just use the straight Delvac 1300 Super at my local auto parts store. It's designated CF, and it's $12/gal. Then again, I dunno. Maybe I'll just use Mobil-1 15W-50. I go through enough of it with my bike; what's another case?

Comments:
There now exists a DI motorcycle (see above URL)! Do any of you know of a turbo charger that would fit a Robin Diesel engine (441cc) on a Royal Enfield motorcycle??? That would be cool - a TDI motorcycle! (about 200mpg!!)

Comments:
About the runaway engine scenerio: couldn't one simply pop the clutch in high gear to kill the engine?

Comments:
HAS anyone had problems with waste gates? My TDI has 5300 miles on it and the waste gate has broken for the 2nd time. (it gets stuck open venting all the boost presure)Also The pluging of the EGR? what effect will this have on the Cat on the exhaust and what will I gain by doing this when they (Volkswag n)finaly fix my car?

Comments:
Ross, I called the 1-800 customer service # for Mobil (I think I got it off their website). The customer service reps were very attentive. If you tell them your zip code they'll tell you the nearest supplier of the Delvac 1. It is sold in 4 1 gallon co tainers. I think it was about $22 dollars a gallon (x) 4 gals. (+) tax. I'm not sure that I'll buy it at that price again. I think I will extend my oil changes out to 15,000 miles to try to make up some of the difference in price. I'll probably go bac to using Shell Rotella @ 10,000 mile intervals when the 4 gals. are used. Happy TDI'ing -Ian.

Comments:
Someone was asking about power at 85% throttle. No data on your particular engine, but maximum power will be at the maximum speed (the red line.)

Power (kW) = SPEED(rpm) * TORQUE(Nm) / 9549.31

Power (bhp) = Power (kW) * 1.34102

Don't expect a linear relationship between the throttle and the speed.

On another subject, at least part of the clanking noise on start-up is due to the hydraulic tappits. Once they get an oil flow and reach equilibrium they get quieter. The 30 seconds is more likely down to this rather than the engine warming up, which take minutes.

Comments:
I love the car. Period. I got it a couple of weeks ago; already have 2k mi. Does anyone know where to get Mobil Delvac-1? It's the diesel (CF-4) fleet equivalent of Mobil-1. Cheers! :->

Comments:
FOR SALE---FOR SALR---FOR SALE---FOR SALE--- FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA FLORIDA PASSAT TDI 96 GREEN 61K MILES EXTRA CLEAN CONDITIONS NEVER CRASH, NO PAIN JOB ALL BOOKS & RECORDS, NEW YOKOHAMAS 6 DISC CD CHANGER, SUN ROOF CALL ME 407-353-7676 I ALREADY ORDER A NEW JETTA TDI FOR MARCH. LET`S TALK ABOUT PRICE CALL ME

Comments:
The stop lever fitted to Peugeots would not stop an engine which is "running away" on its own oil, as it disables the injection pump, but the engine would be running on its own oil, not diesel. I think that the lever is put there simply so that the engine can be stopped if the solenoid valve or the switch feeding it should get stuck "on". I´ve heard a few stories of turbo diesel "running away" when the turbo disintegrates and feeds oil straight into the inlet manifold. How high do you think a Citroen CX TD had to rev for all of the valve push rods to come right out of the top of the engine? Well it revved that high on its own oil.

Comments:
Regarding the posting on 2-10-99 about the use of 5w-30 synthetic in TDi's. What brand of synthetic 5w-30 is easily available in the states? I know AMSOIL makes the product, but it is expensive. Mobil 1 is rated CF which I suppose is adequate, but I wonder what your friendly, knowledgeable, VW dealer will fill the crankcase

Comments:
This message is for Craig Marley: STOP DRINKING DISTILLED WATER! It can be dangerous! Ordinary tap water provides essential minerals and trace elements, that drinking distilled water can actually leech out of your body causing metabolic failure. If you on't believe me, go to www.wwonline.com/rona/distwtr.htm and read the data. As far as cooling systems go, you are really wasting your money if you use distilled water, because over the lifetime of your car, the amount of minerals and other stuff that bu lds up from the water is relatively small.

Comments:
Craig, I don't know if the oil filter in the 98 Jetta TDI's are any easier to change than in the 97 Passat TDI's but, the Passat's are TERRIBLE!! The 1st time I chaned the oil in this car It looked like I got into a fight with an angry alley cat. I chan e the filter from the top but have a hard time manuevering my hands and filter around the tight, sharp edges near the radiator. I read a posting here that stated you can remove the lower radiator hose clamp near the base of the oil filter housing to ease this problem. I will try this at the next interval. Also I have found that oil drips down from the filter when I unscrew it. Then it drips dowm and collects in the plastic pan under the engine compartment. I am going to remove it in the better weather and leave it off. I removed it on my 91 Jetta and had no problems (do to its removal) in 160 thousand miles. Someone here recently stated that VW told them it was for sound dampening purposes only. I also think that I will be able to better troubleshoo my oil usage with this pan removed. It is really oily and I'm not sure wether my engine is leaking somewhere or it is just dripped from the oil changes. My car uses about a qt. of oil every 1500 miles or so. The dealer tells me that my car has no leak . I won't be positive until that oily pan is gone and I can inspect my driveway for telltail signs. Also my passanger side door handle has come loose and my passanger side rear door doesn't line up properly any more. I hope that these are the only prob ems I encounter with this vehicle. I have never been in an accident and unless these problems are resolved I will question the quality of the VW flagship. Happy TDI'ing... -Ian

Comments:
Craig, it's easier to change the filter on my TDi than it is to change the filter on the 8 or 9 Hondas I've either changed the oil on or help out. On the first one I ever did, it almost required stitches! And I'm a thin guy who can almost contort like a contortionist. Changing the oil on a Honda involves jacking the car up to get to the filter. Unless you have a good jack and a sturdy set of jackstands it's extremely difficult. On my TDi, open the hood and reach down and remove it. Wow, that was hard

Comments:
Just my comment on the EGR business. For those of us who don't care to disconnect the valve (for environmental or other reasons) most modern EGR systems have a screen to make sure particles large enough to damage the engine aren't drawn into the manifold Periodic cleaning of the screen is recommended.

Comments:
Just some comments on a few items mentioned since my long posting on diesel longevity. 1. Someone mentioned using de-ionized water with coolant. Since I have a distiller and only put distilled water into my body, I also only put distilled water into my cars. Come to think of it, I haven't changed the antifreeze on my 85 TD since rebuild. Th t's five or six years now. It still has most of the original hoses at 14 years and 419,000 KM. 2. On the subject of Japanese cars mimicking soft American handling, the only criticism I had after the last Jetta IV TDI ride was that the front suspension seemed too soft. On a sharp turn at low speed the front end "plowed" more than on my Accord. I'm wondering if VW has modified their traditional fine handling to become more American? (I need to take a TDI out on the highway to see how she runs.) 3. Someone mentioned that Hondas were the worst to change the oil filter. I got the distinct impression from this list that this honor now belongs to the TDI engine. 4. On the subject of Japanese cars self destructing after 3 years, it is interesting that the Lemonaide Used Car book (which is highly used here in Canada) says the VWs (Golf/Jetta) are very reliable for the first 3 years and then start to have costly pro lems. 5. On the subject of Americans not taking to VW diesels, it is mostly a question of economics. As I mentioned before I can save up to a $1000 a year in fuel here in Canada. Down in the U.S. with much cheaper gas, diesel costing more than gas, and driving less miles, why would I want a diesel?? That is why TDIs are very popular in Europe--high fuel costs.

Comments:
The runaway problem mention below was caused from oil in the intake with the earlier VW diesels in the 80's. When the engine produced enough "blow by" to cause puddling in the intake, this would cause the engine would runaway once the oil reach a certain level. VW tried to correct this by putting pin holes in the lowest part of the intake to burn any oil that would collect there. That only worked providing the intake stayed very clean. Once they became clogged, the whole thing started over again. VW f nally redesigned the shape of the intake and used a slightly different Crankcase ventilation process. I had several of these engines with that problem. It was easy to re-ring the engine, rebuild the head, and maintain a clean intake. Happy TDI'ing

Comments:
The runaway problem mention below was caused from oil in the intake with the earlier VW diesels in the 80's. When the engine produced enough "blow by" to cause puddling in the intake, this would cause the engine would runaway once the oil reach a certain level. VW tried to correct this by putting pin holes in the lowest part of the intake to burn any oil that would collect there. That only worked providing the intake stayed very clean. Once they became clogged, the whole thing started over again. VW f nally redesigned the shape of the intake and used a slightly different Crankcase ventilation process. I had several of these engines with that problem. It was easy to re-ring the engine, rebuild the head, and maintain a clean intake. Happy TDI'ing

Comments:
STOP LEVER: No, VW TDI's don't have 'em. But, you can simply disconnect the positive lead to the fuel cut-off valve for the same effect! I don't think this would help in a runaway situation, however... Is that not when the engine begins to draw oil through the intake valves???

Comments:
I'm going out to West Texas this weekend (8-9 hour drive) , so I thought I'd use the fuel fillup trick (push the button just inside the filler and fill up slow). When I pulled into the gas station my gauge was reading the line over 6 (8?). While washing w ndows and checking oil I was able to add 17+ gallons to the tank. I can't imagine the fuel gauge being off by more than a few gallons, so reguardless I think I got at least 21 gal. in the tank. Running freeway miles (@ 46mpg) that should equal 966 mile ra ge. I think that's the bee's knees b.c. I don't like gas stations. This car inevitably pushes the limits of human endurance on long trips though. It's usually one's need for relief that brings pause to progress. That's what I like about my TDI, road trips on my terms, cupholders, 70mph 5th gear cruise cntl. for hours and hours. Now if I could just pony up for one of those CD changers... I'll let ya'll know how the trip went when I get back. Oh ya, I just changed the oil. 15/30 Synth Mobil 1 (I think). Used a bosch filter, it was big and a tighter fit than the crummy Fram I took out. We're just about at 50,000miles, plan on changing timin belt before summer (not me personally, probably a dealer job).

Comments:
DRIVERS. LET US ALL REMEMBER THAT DIESEL ENGINES STAND ON THEIR OWN. THEY ARE SLOW REVING, FUEL EFFICIENT, HARD WORKING ENGINES. THEY ARE NOT A DESIGN FOR HIGH PERFOMANCE. I ONLY WISH THAT I COULD SEE A LARGER MARKET SHARE IN THE U.S. THEY HAVE HAD A BAD AP BY GENERAL MOTORS IN THE U.S. DAVE

Comments:
I don't know if anyone's pointed this out before, but I just found the American Petroleum Institute's (API--they're the people who rate your oil) website, (http://www.api.org) and they have lots of useful information on there. They explain all of the 'C' ratings--CF, CF-2, CF-4, etc. In addition, they list all of their licensees. You can type in the name of a manufacturer, (Pennzoil, e.g.), and it will turn up a list of everything they make--the various viscosities and API ratings. It also lists any "o f" or store-brand oil that they produce, which would be helpful for those of you that are fond of a particular manufacturer or store. You can even ask for everyone that makes a particular weight or rating of oil, but I wouldn't recommend that--it takes w y too long to load and would be even longer to slog through--it lists just about everyone from here to Brazil and everywhere in between. Enjoy!

Comments:
To Ken in Cleveland: I've used 5w-30/10w-30 synthetic oil in gas engine VW/Audi cars year round since 1983 with excellent results - oil pressure @ hot idle is 1.8-2.0 bar ... periodic oil analysis shows very low wear rates as well. The last time I check d VW recommended the same viscosity oils for their gas & diesel engines; based on expected temps. I'd have no reservation about using a lighter oil in cold weather - if possible a "CH-4/SJ" rated product. I'd be surprised if the product VW is supplying m ets the CH-4 spec, however, it's probably a "CF" (light duty diesel) rated oil ....

Comments:
Philip, no the new TDI doesn't have a stop lever and I hope it never needs one. I assune that is for runaway? Also, I don't use 5W30 in my car I was just wondering if thickening after 10,000 miles might be why VW is now asking that 5W30 synthetic be used y their dealers as stated earlier. I guess I'll call the hotline. I have the radio on and Gerry Falwell thinks ONE OF THE TELETUBBIES IS GAY! Please let me off of this planet. I think we should be more concerned that Gerry is influencing our kids than the gay Teletubby! Sorry for that outburst but with all of this Clinton and moral crap going on in the US I just can't stand it. Back to the TDI. Diesel fuel in my area is going way down in cost 89 cents / gal at my local Sunoco which is cool 'cause I heard t at winter diesel costs more. Do you know what weight oil I should use? I feel that 15W40 is too heavy for winter. On cold mornings it ticks for 30 seconds or more. I just don't think that can be good for the engine. Any thoughts?

Comments:
Ken, I forgot to say, when I do oil changes I have always disabled the injection system and turned the engine over on the starter until oil pressure builds up. On my Peugeot this is simply acheived by wrapping a piece of string around the stop lever on th injection pump. Does the VW tdi engine have a stop lever?

Comments:
Ken, I know about diesels because I have owned them for nearly ten years, several of them have been old scrappers so I have had to learn as I fix them. I have also been reading Diesel Car Magazine since they started publishing it three or four years ago, basically everything I know comes from their pages. I've always been nutty about cars, but somehow diesels have particularly caught my attention. Onto your questions, 1: diesel does explode "harder", that's why a diesel engine is heavy and stronger than a petrol engine, they are built to take it, that's one of the reasons why they won't rev like a petrol engine. 2: They use a belt rather than a chain because they are quieter and cheaper, if less reliable. My first diesel had done 400,000km when I sold it, nd the chain had almost gnawed through the metal cover, but it still worked. I guess that the manufactures think that the belt is reliable enough, and if you change it when they tell you to then it probably is (at least on a quality car like a VW). 3: I t ink that a diesel needs to be driven hard occasionally. My current car has been basically thrashed constantly for most of its 330,000km. I have worn out drive shafts, suspension and gearboxes but only now has the engine started to give trouble (I thing an exhaust valve is leaking). Don't be afraid to use the performance occasionally, it'll stop the engine coking up. 4: Diesel engine oil does go black very quickly due to the carbon, and that's not actually harmful, but it won't compensate for the oil breaki g down either. You can't harm the engine by changing the oil too often. Diesels used to have oil change intervals of 3000 miles, that was because people were using oil designed for petrol engines, and because IDI engines were harder on the oil than todays DI engines are (I don't know why that's true, but I know it is). Synthetic oils have allowed the manufacturers to push out change intervals even further. Remember that manufacturers are constantly trying to reduce the "cost of ownership" by reducing the s rvice intervals. They will push out service intervals as far as they can get away with; they are prepared to compromise ultimate engine life a little to do it. If you want the absolute ultimate engine life then a: use the absolute best diesel specific oil you can get; compare oils by reading the spec on the side of the can, not the marketing stuff, b: consider changing the oil more often. If the car is VW maintained then you could change the oil half way between 10,000 mile VW service, you probably don't n ed to change the filter so often. Consider supplying the oil to the dealer who does the service and find a way to make sure that the mechanic uses it (label on the filler cap?). If you buy a new car every few years then it's probably not worth bothering. efinitely don't expect the carbon to lubricate your engine, you need oil to do it.

Comments:
Ken, the upper ambient temperature limit in the TDI owner's manual is 60 deg. F for 5W-30 oil. Using it above that could prove to be risky...

Comments:
I have been following the discussion on oils and I would like to know...... Can I switch from mineral to synthetic directly, or do I have to use a special oil to "clean" the engine before using synthetic oil? What is the effect of synthetic oil to seals t at have been used to mineral oil? Thanks for your help. Happy TDIing! I hope to own one soon.

Comments:
Ray, my last sentence is If 5W30 has that much of a difference in 3,000 miles imagine how much thicker 15w40 must be in 10,000 miles. I am on my friends Macintosh and it is acting wierd

Comments:
Ray, this is most likely based on the fact that they have 10,000 mile change intervals. If you use 15W40 and keep it in the engine for 10,000 miles it turns to rubber cement. I have always used 5W30 in my gas cars and at each change (3,000 miles) I could notice a great increase in the lifters clickiness. Imagine if 5W30 has that much of a difference in 3,000 miles how much thicker 15W40 must be at

Comments:
Ray, this is most likely based on the fact that they have 10,000 mile change intervals. If you use 15W40 and keep it in the engine for 10,000 miles it turns to rubber cement. I have always used 5W30 in my gas cars and at each change (3,000 miles) I could notice a great increase in the lifters clickiness. Imagine if 5W30 has that much of a difference in 3,000 miles how much thicker 15W40 must be at

Comments:
Thought this would be of interest to everyone. Any comments???? Subject: All TDI owners ---- Please read. Date: 9 Feb 1999 17:39:18 GMT From: "C5Engnr" Organization: FASTNET(tm) PA/NJ/DE Internet Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled Hello to all TDI owners, I just got a copy of a Service Circular from the service department of my local VW dealership. After all the discussion on the use of synthetics oils, I thought this might be of interest to all TDI drivers out there. I assume VW is now recommending 5W-30 synthetic oil after the first service (5000 mile), and every time from that point forward. I'm due for my 20,000 mile service right now, and I will delay the service a week until my dealer gets 5W-30 Synthetic in stock. Don't just believe me though. Ask your dealer for a copy of Service Circular V 99-05, and ensure they are "up to speed" on the new requirements before your car gets serviced. ~~~~~~~~~ Dave '97 \X/ Jetta TDI (VW Symbol) Service Circular Warranty ____________________________________________________________________________ ___________ Subject: 1996-1999 TDI (Turbo-Diesel) Volkswagen Vehicles Number: V99-05 Use of Synthetic Oil Date: 1 / 26 / 1999 Effective immediately, please use 5W-30 synthetic oil when performing warranty repairs or Free Maintenance on 1996-1999 model year TDI (diesel) vehicles. Following are the Volkswagen part numbers, quantities and costs that must be used while the vehicle is within the warranty. Please note that it is more cost effective to utilize the Drop Ship Program rather than ordering through the depot. In the United States: Part Number Quantity Type of Shipment Dealer Cost ZVW 352 067 DSP 6 quarts Drop Ship [Blanked] ZVW 352 530 S 1 quart Depot [Blanked] In Canada: Part Number Quantity Type of Shipment Dealer Cost ZVW 352 530 S DSP 1 quart Drop Ship [Blanked] ZVW 352 530 S 1 quart Depot [Blanked] Items to remember: ) Synthetic oil usage will only be reimbursed under warranty or free maintenance for 1996-1999 TDI models. ) Advise customers of the change from mineral based oil to synthetic oil. ) Be certain to utilize and claim the correct quantity of synthetic oil depending on the vehicle / engine class.

Comments:
When I first start my car it emits a blue-white smoke for a minute or so. I know on a gas engine this is a problem. Is there any reason for concern with the TDI. I have read a couple of brief comments about a "Smoke" problem with the 96 models could th s be a carry over? Has anybody here chipped there engine? How difficult and expensive is it to do?

Comments:
Just ordered my jetta TDI. Can't wait! Should be here in May 1999. Sigh. I drove a diesel in Europe for 3500 miles in November 1998 and really enjoyed it. My uncle is a diesel mechanic and has told me a lot about them during the last few decades. These pa es are quite nice to read. Thanks for the information. Anyone purchase a shop manual on their TDI? If so, where can they be obtained?

Comments:
Just ordered my jetta TDI. Can't wait! Should be here in May 1999. Sigh. I drove a diesel in Europe for 3500 miles in November 1998 and really enjoyed it. My uncle is a diesel mechanic and has told me a lot about them during the last few decades. These pa es are quite nice to read. Thanks for the information. Anyone purchase a shop manual on their TDI? If so, where can they be obtained?

Comments:
Philip, how do you know so much about diesels? I know that pinging is predetonation, but it seems that if a diesel explodes so hard it would almost have the same affect as predetonation on the piston head. Are diesel pistons harder? One other thing, why o why don't they use a timing chain rather than belt on diesels if a broken belt is going to destroy your engine? I guess I am crazy with all of my questions, it's just that I want to keep this car for 10 to 15 years. I have always bought new cars, but aft r the 4 or 5 year loan was up I was ready for a new car. I love this car soooooo much I want to keep it. Since diesel is new to me I want to be sure I know as much as possible. Like drive it hard, or don't drive it hard? Rev it up, of don't rev it up? etc .. One last thing, how often would you change the oil? I have heard that the carbon in diesel is very soft and has lubricating properties so frequent oil changes are not recommended. What is your thought? Ken

Comments:
can anybody recommend a service manual for the 98 jetta tdi?

Comments:
Ken, My wife agrees, she prefers the cast iron history and the blue colour, personally I still don´t like that blue dashboard. Although engine noise is subjective, if you are used to a petrol engine then a cold diesel could sound like a jackhammer. It is upposed to be like that, it is not "pinking". When a petrol engine pinks, it is because the spark is too soon, and the fuel goes bang before the piston is at TDC. With a diesel, the noise is due to the speed of the exposion. With a petrol engine the explo ion "travels" through the fuel air mixture in a fairly progressive way and gives a nice smooth engine. With a diesel all the fuel is suddenly dumped and goes bang very quickly. The fuel burns due to compression, and as soon as some fuel burns, the pressur increases and the rest goes bang mighty quick. Basically the petrol in the petrol engine burns, and the diesel in the diesel engine explodes (OK thats a bit over simplified, but you get the point). An indirect engine tamed this behaviour by having the ba g start in a chamber seperated from the cylinder by a narrow throat. The combustion gases have to escape down the narrow throat (and the oxygen in the other direction) which slows them down a bit, softening the bang, clever eh! The thing is that because t e gases have to pass down that throat you loose efficiency, about 15 to 20% to be exact. With modern tdi engines the manufacturers have found other ways (electronic control, dual spring injectors) to tame the bang a bit, hence we have our TDIs. Here in eu ope most of the diesels on the road are IDI (indirect diesel injection), all the new engines coming out are DI though.

Comments:
Regarding draining water out of fuel filter: use a fuel additive, such as "Fuel Power", and you will never, ever have any water to drain (it disperses water in diesel fuel). In over 100,000 miles with an Oldsmobile diesel, I never had seen the first drop of water.

Comments:
Bob Shope, am I correct in assuming that you have put the tee's in your vacuum system and everything is going good? If so let me know cause that would be easier than removing the pipe. Although I must say without the pipe you are free of rust out problems 6 of so years down the road. anyway please let me know what you have found.

Comments:
Sparky, I went to the cummins site and it was good. My question is what makes the clattering sound in diesels. I always wonder if i'm killing my engine when it's cold and sounds like a jack hammer. If pinging kills a gas engine, what is going on in a die el? Also, I didn't catch the name of the person wondering where the water separator is. It's in the fuel filter which is that black round canister with fuel lines attached to it to the right of the engine near the front of the car. (assuming it is the same be ween all new TDI's.) If you feel the bottom of it there is a cock that you turn to let the water run out. Bob and Philip, I didn't get a chance to look at the EGR situation had too many late nights and winter returned to my area and I'm parking outside for the next two weeks. I live in a high rise with heated underground parking but have a roommate and three ars between the two of us so we switch biweekly. Philip if you know the person who drove the older passat with less miles I might lean that way. But I just don't trust dealers. I was wondering if they have the New Beetle in the UK yet?

Comments:
Hey Bob: If you read the previous discussion days ago you would understand that "That" is exactly my point and why I own my Jetta. There are others who claim that only VW's have the best exceptional (GERMAN)performance, so that's why Fred's web-site sust ined all the discussion about other car companies' ability to manufacture Sports cars. As for reliability and efficiency, both records belong to the Japanese. Expensive family sedans like Jetta don't even come close. Check out the facts and data yourse f sometime....Mike...Out...

Comments:
Hey Mike, who cares about "racing". We have our VW's to go from point A to point B reliably and efficiently!

Comments:
Hey Mike, who cares about "racing". We have out VW's to go from point A to point B reliably and efficiently!

Comments:
http://cecoewww.cummins.com/ram/ramqa8.html FYI: Here is a good diesel vs. gas explanation from Cummins. Hope this will help answer some curious questions. Have a great day!

Comments:
Corrado's success does not depend on the track, it depends on it's competition. While a Corrado does have good acceleration, it's front wheel drive configuration is it's weakpoint. It does well against other front wheel cars, but won't hold a candle to 50/50 weight balanced rear wheel or mid-engine car. SCCA lowered it's classification as even (FWD)sport Neons knocked it out of competition. At Road America you can overcome Corrados superior acceleration by hanging close, then passing on the inside. T e fact is that if a Corrado is going fast enough to leave you it's high speed entry into turns will keep it "High in the Curves". You then tuck inside when ahead and cut-off any chance to advance. Two turns later you wont see it in the Corrado in the mir or. While a VW has great manners for day to day driving, nobody....sorry..nobody takes VW serious at a track like Road America. By the way, Miata was never intended to be a street worthy race car. It is a standard, cheap production model that handles so well it dominated it's class in SCCA racing. Automobile Magazine has rated Miata "Car of the Year" for 5 years. No NON-JAPANESE car has ever done that!!!!Mike...Out...

Comments:
My Passat tdi wagon buying exercise has now taken a turn, I have a choice! I'm having trouble choosing, I'd be interested on your guys opinions: Choice 1- 96 passat tdi cl (air con, elec windows, central locking, cloth interior) with 43,000 miles (maybe 45,000 by the time I get my hands on it) in dark blue with blue dash, blue seats etc, full VW service history, bought from my the company I work f r. Choice 2- 98 passat tdi gl (as above, but has ABS, velour interior, roof rails) with 78,000 miles in green with black dash and nice sort of dark green seats, bought from a dealer (not a VW one), but with full VW service history. The price is the same, the decision is 35,000 less and guaranteed solid gold history vs velour interior and ABS brakes; or put it another way head vs heart I could always buy the blue one and get an interior from a crashed one, but it would still have that blue dashboard :-( Any opinions welcome

Comments:
I just read on the VWAG website that the TDI motor can use Biodiesel down to -10 C. This seems to answer the question of whether the engine seals are adversely affected by the Biodiesel. Has anyone tried this yet? Once it warms up around here I'm going to try a tank of the 20% blend...D'nardo

Comments:
A question for you TDI folks: what kind of oil filter do you recommend (other than VW)? Is there a good FRAM equivalent? Also, in the manual, it states that water needs to be drained from the 'water separator' - where is this? At ~5000km, I am very happy with my Jetta, though I had the glow plug light flash at me this morning on the way in to work. Guess I better bring it in! Thanks, ../mk

Comments:
Ken, VW fit EGR valves to tackle emissions of Nitrous Oxides (stuff that produces smog in hot cities). Lean burn engines are generally cleaner than normal engines, but produce more NOx. A diesel engine is ULTRA lean burn (especially at light load), and pr duces quite a bit of NOx. By feeding some exhaust fumes back into the engine the NOx is reduced. I still don't want EGR on my engine! - I don't live in a city anyway. Not all diesels here in the UK have EGR, it's not compulsory, and NOx is not analysed in the emissions test here. Maybe NOx is not analysed in the US emissions test either.

Comments:
Hi Mike, I want to stick to the point. For an enthusiastic driver the handling of a STOCK Accord is awful compared to a STOCK Jetta. That does not mean the Accord is a "bad" car, whatever that means. The Accord will have fewer initial quality problems, bu PROBABLY more in the long run if you drive the car to extreme high mileage. You are absolutely correct that there are good cars from most manufacturers. I listed many in the last post and the list included your Miata. A Miata is one of the most fun, neutral cars you can buy. As far as "expanding my horizons" goes, if you can get issan to ship me a fully tweaked Bluebird, I would be glad to cut a check! Oh, as far as your Miata "running rings around any Corrado", it depends on the track. On a very tight auto-x track, probably. On a track with long straights and tight corners, not a chance. Do you get any tracktime in your Miata? (I think Fred is gonna kick us out of here, none of this has anything to do with TDIs) :-) Take care, Al

Comments:
Fred: I am considering installing an early ('85) VW diesel complete w trans and dif (locked)in a boat. have you any comments for me? Is there a marine type water cooled exhaust manifold? what kind of rpm's can it do and stay together at 85% throttle? What kind of continuous hp? Can you refer me to a supplier of marine conversion parts? Thanks, Henri

Comments:
Here is the text on the recall:
*********************************
Volkswagen Announces Voluntary Recall

AUBURN HILLS, Mich., Feb. 5 /CNW/ -- Volkswagen of America, Inc. today announced that it is voluntarily recalling approximately 11,585 1999 new Jetta and new Golf four-door models in the U.S. to remove a piece of sound-absorbing material inside the center-door pillars because it could potentially ignite from the activation of the seat-belt tensioning system, which provides additional protection in severe collisions.
Approximately 1,385 new 1999 Jettas sold in Canada are also involved. Volkswagen determined that the type of sound-absorbing material used in the door pillars of the recently introduced 1999 new Golf and new Jetta models could have been improperly installed. As part of the activation process, the pretensioner creates heat and could potentially ignite this type of material if it has been damaged by improper installation.
There have been no accidents or injuries attributed to this concern, and only one reported incident in a controlled test environment.
Owners of affected vehicles will be notified by first-class mail. They will be asked to phone their authorized Volkswagen dealer to have the material -- which is designed to reduce sound at higher speeds -- removed from the door pillars. All work will be completed at no cost to the customer.
Customers with questions are welcome to phone a special Volkswagen customer toll-free number at 1-877-270-4178. Volkswagen began selling the all-new 1999 Jetta in November, preceding the new 1999 Golf, which went on sale last month. In the new Golf model line, only four-doors are affected by the recall.
*********************************
This is for A4 models.

Comments:
FIY: 1999 Jetta/Gold owners. I heard on the radio this afternoon that VW is issuing a recall of 1999 4-door Jettas and Golfs. The problem is something to do with the insulation in the doors, which can catch fire due to some problem (electrical, I assume) in the seat-belt slack-adjust ng mechanism. I don't know if all '99 Jetta and Golf 4-doors are affected, or just the newer A4/1999.5 models. They said that although no fires had been reported by consumers, that the recall affects about 12000 cars. (Again, I don't know if that's 1200 cars produced, or sold to consumers.) I'm going to assume that this recall only affects the A4 Jetta/Golf, meaning the 1999.5 models, since (1) they're new and (2) from my understanding, the "1999" A3s are identical to the 1998s, so a recall affected on presumably would affect the other. But who knows? Owners are supposed to be notified by mail.

Comments:
I have the problem that occasionally, after a fill-up, the fuel guage either sticks on empty or rises only very slowly after several miles. When it sticks down, the low fuel lamp also stays lit. Always sorts itself out after a while, but a nuisance while it occurs. I am not checking fuel level during fueling. (I see that is a no-no). thanks Andrew

Comments:
I've done some background changes to the web site today... If you notice any problems, let me know. I should hopefully have some time tomorrow to start updating content. Also if anyone has access to a message board we can convert the Message Section, pl a e let me know (I'd like to get the messages organized better).

Thanks
Fred

02/07/99 03:36:49

Comments:
I'm just repeating what I've heard so don't shoot the messenger. This was confirmed in an article in a major magazine some years later. This may not apply nowadays as I originally heard this from a carnut friend of my brother's some 10 years ago. How do the engineers and assembly line workers in a Japanese automobile factory get to work? By subway or bullet train. How does the engineers and assembly line workers in a German factory get to work? Autobahn. Not only that but does the average Japanese worker have a driver's license? No. Why would you want to buy one? On a not so related note, I used to deliver used car engines and trannys fom the piers in San Francisco and Oakland to a company in Berkely. These were engines from Japan with some 40-50k miles on them. I asked one of the guys how they were able ot get these engines in such large numbers and in so good condition. He said that in Japan, cars are NOT allowed to stay on the roads past 40k miles and are dismantled and recycled. They got the engines and trannys of models that were coming here and they were doing good business. Maybe you heard of this company, Attarco. There was another, similar company in San Jose that we delivered to as well. If you read between the lines, Japanese cars are not designed to be around that long. Not only that, but have you tried to change the oil on a Honda? They were not designed for the owners to do maintainance on them. If they were, they wouldn't have placed the oil filter between the block and firewall under the fuel injection system where you need to lift the car up to reach it. In Japan, people who own cars have mechanics work on their cars because that's their jobs. The typical owner doesn't know what a spark plug is. Just my two cents. And I used to own a pair of Datsun Z cars. My brothers have owned and I have driven Toyotas, Datsuns, Nissans, Hondas, and Acuras. I still prefer VWs.

02/07/99 01:31:10

Name: Bob Shope	My Email: Email Me
City: Harrisburg	Province/State: PA	Country: USA
Your VW/Audi: 98 New Beetle tdi

Comments:
This is scary I had a thought. If the egr needs a vacume source to keep it closed, tee in at the vacume source and put a tee in on the valve side. this will keep a vacume to the valve all the time. Also did notice how much more responce the engine has col . The green light on. It even sounds cool. Bob Shope

Comments:
I've owned three new Honda's lately and can make some comments on the current deabte. 95 Civic sedan developed synchro problems in gearbox after 20K (5 spd). No other problems except for the air,

Comments:
Mike, the 1999 Protege is rated for 34mpg. All cars vary, my TDI averages 47mpg. One of the reasons I bought it was driving range but the other was a very favorable expierince with a 1987 Jetta GLI. That car averaged 37mpg with highway speeds of 65+. y mother still has that car and with 150k+ miles it will still get 40mpg with the cruise control set at 55. My personal expierience with VW has been exellent. So, although there are individual cars of any make that get well above the rated fuel economy here must also be those that get less. One person may get 40mpg with a Protoge but another might be lucky to get 30. Just as there are some geting 55mpg with their TDI's and others lucky to get 40. Individual cars differ so you have to rely on statisti s as well as your own personal expieriences. Enjoy your car and may each buy the vehicle of their choice.

Comments:
Bob, one more thing. I am actually pissed that there is an EGR on the TDI! Why would they turbo charge and intercool the engine. Intercooling is used to make the oxygen more dense and therefore burn the fuel more efficently. Turbocharging is to deliver mo e oxygen and fuel to the engine. (Am I correct so far?) My point is why would you then add exhaust gas to the mix. Doing so retards combustion. They might as well connect a fire extinguisher to the intake while there at it. I could see if they were actual y accumulating unburned fule and adding it to the system but they aren't. If they were neither of my last two gas cars would have passed the pollution tests, because I disconnected the EGR's on both of them.

Comments:
Bob Shope, I am going to disconnect my EGR somehow. I had a car 6 years ago that I had to remove the pipe between the intake and exhaust manifold and plug the two holes. It just so happened that I had pieces of iron used in my business that fit perfectly ver the openings in the intake and exhaust manifolds, all I had to do is reuse the bolts that I removed from the EGR pipe and bolt them in. I just left the EGR operating, but with no pipe between the manifolds it was fooling the computer. I'm sure that is what I will have to do in this case as the vacuum is needed to keep the EGR closed on the TDI. I'm assuming this is the norm now as it will inform the computer that the EGR is not operating. The old school allowed the EGR to clog and stick shut with no wa of monitoring it since the car would run fine.

Comments:
I'm still looking for a good place to order TDI fuel & oil filters, reasonably priced. Can anyone help? Thanks.

Comments:
Mike: Regarding your statement: "The facts show that Jap cars have less part failures than other cars in the same class. And that's WORLD-WIDE DATA." A past article in the Allegemeine Zeitung/Mainz (local newspaper for MZ, Germany) did an article on the durability of autos. They compiled their list on which cars were most reliable from data collected by the TUeV (the organization in Ger. responsible fo the emission and safety inspections). Interesting results. For the first couple of years, cars produced by Japanese manuf. had less "out-of-the-box" problems than other makes. However, around the 3rd or 4th year of ownership, the number of problems detec ed by the TUeV from European makes stayed more or less the same, while the Japanese cars had a pile of problems going through the roof! The authors of the article summed it up so, saying that for the first 2 years or so, Japanese cars proved to be less problamatic, while after 3 or so years, it would be wiser to own an European model. Yes, I agree that one should try other types/makes of cars. I've driven, or had cause to drive, Nissan's, VW's, and a Peugeot. The Peugeot is by far my favorite, but where to buy a Peugeot in the US? One Nissan had major engine problems, and never recovered, while the other one caught fire while being drive 5mph down a country road (faulty wiring in the engine compt). Ill stick to VW's. dj

Comments:
Hey Volks: I bought my 97 Passat yesturday. So far, I love it. I hope to visit this page at least twice per week and contribute whatever I can. My car has 27,500 miles on it. It does not have leather or heated seats, or the on board computer. It seems to have all the other options. What does everybody think is a fair pries for this car? I am getting the feeling that I overpaid. Give me your esponses and I will tell what I paid. Also, is there any other way to open the fuel tank door other than turning the key in the door twice? I spent half an hour at a gas station flipping through the damn Owner's Manual before I figured it out. Next question, where does your clutch engage? Mine seems to engage in the last third of the up swing. Is this normal? Looking forward to your responses and sharing information. MD

Comments:
I Tried to disconect the EGR on my NB TDI. By pluging the vacume line. I got a check engine light as soon as I took it out on a long run. I cleared after I rehooked the line up. If you ever had a GM 5.7 or 4.3 diesel you could see the black carbon build u in the intake. It would clean up after the vacume was unhooked. No computer tateltail.

Comments:
I'm ready to come to a conclusion about the comparison between VW and similar Japanese cars to end all the squabbling: 1.) Overall, the cars are very close to being equal. 2). However, as far as engines go, the TDI Engine is SUPERIOR. Happy TDI'ing, folk !

Comments:
Philip, don't disconnect the vacuum line like I did. I started my car cold and it was stumbling at light throttle. I checked the vacuum line and there is vacuum at idle so it must be working opposite. I am going to take off the engine cover this weekend and investigate the operation of the EGR more closely. I can't tell anything with that cover in the way. I am also going to read pro's and con's to EGR's and go from there, but I have always thought that it was stupid to recirculate the exhaust as it reta ds the combustion. My old gas car got better mileage and my friend now owns it at 100,000+ miles and it runs like new. It's a Dodge.

Comments:
Mike, I never liked VW's and the only reason I have one is because the Beetle came out. My roomate (a 97 Civic owner) always liked VW's and always praised the driving characteristics of German cars. When I got my Beetle the minute he drove it he said "I s ould have gotten a Jetta I love the feel of German cars." I too love the feel of my car, and in last months Consumer Reports the Beetle way outscored the Civic for handling, ride, safety, and quietness. Now that I have experienced the great seats and grea suspension of my car, I don't think I'll go back to American or Japanese cars. I might try Sweedish.

Comments:
Advice for those who feel poorly about Jap cars: Bring your Jettas and NB's up to Road America for a race/driving experience. You get you ass kicked by a lot of cars and most of them will be JAPANESE. Mike...Out...

Comments:
One last time on this Jap car thing. You want to experience "precise steering and braking" strap yourself to an ACURA NSX. The point is that there are variations in performance across any manufacture's line. BMW's Mercedes Benz, and even Volkswagen bet er have upgraded components and performance because they cost a lot more. The performance of an everyday $14K Honda Civic is not good when compared with a $43K BMW. The original low cost VW Bug had all kinds of bad manners, but it was cheap. I'll say i one last time. Anyone who dismisses the attributes of Japanese cars simply does not know what they are talking about.

Comments:
Philip, you are correct sir. I checked out my TDI last night and it does have an EGR. I never even considered it on a diesel. Needless to say I cut the hose clamp off at the EGR valve and made a plug by hacking off a 1/4" piece of a bolt that fit snuggly nto the hose and stuck it into the hose with a center punch 'til it was just past the depth of the EGR hose nipple and re-attached the hose to the EGR that way the dealer won't see my modification. I'll report back mileage as I'm sure it will increase as t did on my gas car. I have already noticed quicker throttle response under light throttle. Thanks for the info. As to the German, Japanese arguenent... there is a geometry used in the suspension and spring rates used in German cars that is quite different than American and Japanese cars. The high end Japanese cars mimic these to compete with German cars. There are o American cars made in America that do this however, most Japanese cars mimic American cars in ride and handling. All you have to do is read any car report and you will hear how the VW, or BMW, or whatever German car tested gives better road feel and has more precise steering and braking.

Comments:
AL. Based on your comments, and the long-listed fleet of VW's you own, you favor Volkswagens. Perhaps you should try another brand and expand your horizons. VW's also have their own flaws. But I won't discourage this fine group of VW fans by spending ti e about talking of how they too, as you say, "are weak" and "puke up parts". The facts show that Jap cars have less part failures per car than any other cars in the same class. And that's WORLD-WIDE DATA. There ARE other fine cars other than Volkswagen, nd many of them are Jap....Mike...Out

Comments:
Yo Mike, check out the word "most" in my post. I'm not talking about your Miata, Supra Turbos, Mister Twos, Integra Type R, RX7, Z-cars or CRXs on steroids. We are talking about Jetta/Passat vs Accord/Toyota Sedan for EVERYDAY use. The steering, brakes and suspension tuning on those Japanese Cars are awful compared to the Jetta/Passat. There is way too much understeer built into them, the steering is overboos ed and numb on center and brake modulation is horrible...since you obviously enjoy flogging a Miata, you must know what I am talking about.

Comments:
ABOUT JAP CARS: Don't kid yourself. Jap cars can be reliable, fast, and formidable. If you're gonna make comparisons keep in the same class. My Miata could run circles around any Corrodo. A 1995 RX7 Turbo-rotary or a Toyota Supra can eat up a Porsche, nd a stock (Jetta sized) Mazda Protege can get almost 40 MPG WITHOUT a Diesel. I love my Jetta for it's characteristics and manners, but I can not dismiss Jap cars either. Those who condemn Jap car while being unfamiliar with their attributes simply do ot know what they are talking about.

Comments:
Diesel longevity:- My Peugeot 305 diesel has done 330,000km. It has just lost compression in one cylinder because the exhaust valve is leaking, however I'm still using it every day as it is. I doubt whether it will be worth repairing because the rest of the car is totally k ackered. This has mostly been local and city driving over 11 years, not motorway driving. I don't know anyone who has a petrol car which has done that kind of distance without an engine swap. I guess that UK miles are harder than US ones because our roads are so crowded. Usually a petrol engine lasts about 200,000km max here. My first car, another Peugeot diesel, had done 400,000 when I sold that, and it was still going well at the time (the body was absolutely terrible though). It is the petrol itself which ruins the petrol engines, I have friends in Italy who drive their petrol cars around converted to run on natural gas, and the engines last much longer, similar to a diesel engine.

Comments:
Ok, now that I'm done being a wiseguy. In all honesty Al, I agree with you 100%. I owned two Honda Accord EXs and they were both dogs. The second EX I owned had that stupid "fuzzy logic" computerized trany. Believe me, I can't say enough bad things a out it. And the steering! It was too imprecise, needed constant correction. I knew as soon as I started driving my Jetta that I was back where I was supposed to be. Oh by the way, I've got a '81 Diesel with 164K on it. The body's rusted to heck and t e injector leaks occasionally but that motor just keeps on running. I sold an old '86 diesel golf to a guy and now he's got about 212K on it...of course he works on it quite frequently but eventually he gets it operational again.

Comments:
To Al from Wisconsin: OK Al, this time don't hold back. Tell us how you really feel about Japanese cars. :-)

Comments:
Ken: The passat tdi here in Europe certainly has EGR. Rooster: Diesel Car Magazine is a UK magazine, however I believe that they do international subscriptions. It´s an excellent magazine. You can find them at www.dieselcar.co.uk

Comments:
Just wanted to pass along a personal experience with my normally aspirated indirect-injection diesel Jetta. @ 140K miles I had to replace the timing belt. That in and of itself wasn't a problem. The real problems are as follows: The previous two owners fa led to change the coolant on a regular basis and probably used some no name coolant along with tap water-as opposed to the de-ionized water that I know that ALL of the readers of this page do. My trusted mechanic (from the Old Country) discovered that the head gasket was leaking ever so slightly. We pulled the head and found the spot between the middle cylinders. The radiator was pulled and it was thoroughly trashed. Rust, scale dirt, pin holes, etc... Bottom line-change your coolant on a regular basis and use de-ionized water only! My mechanic feels that such PM would have save me from some fairly expensive repair work that shouldn't have had to be done so soon. New radiators for our diesels cost a LOT of money. Then we had to resurface the head. Then ther were the little associated parts that go along with engine work of this magnitude. I've only had the car for a few months, but I do think that I've finally cured the car of the last of it's previous owner's casual neglect. They felt that if they took t e car to the local Jiffy Lube every 3K miles and had it washed once a week they'd be ok. BTW I'm interested in subscribing to Diesel Car Magazine. Would any of you know the address or phone number to these folks? I having trouble finding it. Thanks!

Comments:
I personally know of 5 Rabbit Diesels with over 300k miles and the heads have not been off of most of them. The only reason they were sent to the shredder was rust where the suspension meets the tub. The motors were still strong. VW 4 cylinder motors, eit er gas or diesel are beasts...you can run em' as hard as you want and they are almost impossible to break. As far as Volkswagen learning something from the Japs...if I want an understeering, ill-handling, tinny deathtrap with mushy brakes and no character, I know just where to go, the local Toyota or Honda dealer. My last Toyota needed 3 water pumps, a transmi sion, a head gasket and an alternator by 120k. Run em hard, they puke up parts and in general the tubs are so weak they handle like S#!^. Most Jap Cars are fine appliances for dropping off the kids or fetching a sack of groceries, but they are not meant f r enthusiastic drivers.

Comments:
Craig: Now way would I be driving a Camry, Avalon, Corolla, or Accord. Not that they aren't reliable cheap cars, but they have no soul, no ambiance. My TDI BUG and JETTA out class those poor asian marques so badly it is without question. My 1976 BMW 2002 ent 180,000 on the first engine before it needed a head job (cam bearing were worn so badly it needed a new head) the second motor has gone another 180,000 and doesn't leak or consume a drop of oil (Castrol 5-50 Syntex). Punch it or let up off the gas aft r you are running full out and no smoke through the exhaust. No Toyota or Honda could run like that. I think the TDI motor is going to change people way of thinking about small diesel automotive engines for private transportation. We'll see in another ten years, in the meantime, sell you gas guzzling hogs and buy a VW TDI!!!!!

Comments:
Craig: In order for a gas engine to "last longer", it would have to violate the laws of physics, and I don't see that happening any time soon! Law 1: The TDI engine runs at a considerably lower RPM per MPH than the gas equivalent, meaning less engine wea . Law 2: Diesel fuel is an oil, therefore a lubricant, as opposed to gas which dilutes motor oil, making it ineffective as a lubricant. This means that a thin layer of diesel fuel is sprayed against the cylinder walls acting as a lubricant causing LESS ear. On the other hand,gasoline sprayed on the cylinder walls creates more of a metal to metal situation, when it thins out the thin coating of motor oil, resulting in MORE wear.

Comments:
Diesel Longevity This may prove to be controversial. Diesel engines last longer than gas engines right? When it comes to trucks that is true. The Mercedes diesel is proven to be in that category. But based on my 20-year experience, VW diesels (up to the mid 90s at leas ) do not live up to their longevity potential. In fact in many cases, the gas VW has outlived the diesel. This is my 20-year experience: 1) 78 Rabbit diesel 4 sp -totally worn out at 295,000 KM. Every winter it got harder to start because of loosing compression until finally it would not start below +35F. Totally useless for Canada. 2) 81 Rabbit diesel-5 sp - started having major starting problems around 220,000 KM so got rid of it while I could. 3) 85 Jetta 1.6 TD -5sp - ran fine up to about 240,000km when I started to loose oil pressure. (An oil-pressure gauge was installed since before I bought it from friend in '88 (118km) who is a back-yard mechanic and VW diesel fanatic). It got to the po nt at 258,000 km when there was almost no oil pressure then it died. I had my friend, the original owner, totally rebuilt it. It died because the original timing belt broke which destroyed the valve train. But in tearing the engine apart the oil proble was discovered. One of the lower main bearings had completely worn away! Was this a design defect? Or a factory defect? We never knew. (Last year my friend rebuilt another TD and found extreme wear in the same bearing.) Pistons were fine as were cy inder walls-little wear. Rings were replaced, valves redone, etc. and the engine has run fine since (now 419,000 KM). Ironically, many people have major problems with turbochargers, yet mine has never been touched and has leaked oil for the last 200,000 km. It is still running perfect though. My friend just rebuilt his 95 turbo-$3,000 in parts, labor his! Bottom line is that none of my VW diesels ever made it to 300,000km! I change my own oil every 5-6,000 km using (since rebuild) only Castoil GTX 20-50 in summer, 10-40 in winter except when real cold lighter is needed. Oil pressure is still very good si ce rebuild. I tried most major oils and Castoil was the best for viscosity breakdown when hot. Better than diesel-only oils. Rotella T 15-40 was noticeably worse. You would not believe what you can see with an oil pressure gauge! Quaker State and Pen oil were crap. I'm down about a litre when due for a change (including oil leak from turbo). Major service on Jetta in last few years has been done by a mechanic who was a Service Manager for a VW dealer. He started his own one-man business to service VWs about 8 years ago, but now also does work on Japanese cars. He started out as a VW diesel an, but has driven only gas VWs. He has rebuilt both with equal mileage and years ago noted more engine wear on the diesels. He says that the gas will outlast the diesel with equal care, and what you save on fuel is more than made up in repairs. Now he advises customers to buy an Accord or Camry. His son drives a U.S. Accord with 185,000 miles with no repairs other brakes and tires. Another customer has a 300,000 km Camry with no repairs other than tires and brakes. Never seen a VW diesel do that! H says that the late-model VWs he services have niggling chronic problems like loose trim and rattles. The Japanese makes require nothing. He wishes VW would learn from the Japanese. In fact when I was considering a used Camry, one Toyota dealer told me that he has seen about 30 Camrys with 300,000+ km and no owners wanted to trade them in. There is one mid-80s 4-Runner around with 750,000 km (original engine and tranny) and there is a news clipping at the dealer about an 85 Toyota with 1.5 million km o it! My mechanic's theory is that the VW diesels run too hot internal in the cylinders compared to a gas VW. My own theory was always that they run at too high revs compared to truck or Mercedes diesels. Whatever the reason, even though I have heard of high- ileage VW diesels, they are rare and most like mine have been rebuilt. Running in Mexico is one thing, but starting at 0F is quite another. Full compression is needed. How does this bode for TDI? Who knows. It is a nice engine, re-designed to run at lower revs. Maybe VW has solved all other problems. In 10-years we will know! If I ever get a new TDI, I plan to trade it after 150,000km before trouble starts. Just i case.

Comments:
Philip Christian, do TDI's have an EGR valve? I disconnected the EGR on my old gas car for the reason you mention and always passed the emissions tests with flying colors and I sware it improved my gas milage. I know on most gas engines you will find the alve on the intake manifold and their will be a tube running between the intake minifold and the exhaust manifold. the valve is shut during idle otherwise the car would run like crap. When you push the gas and the butterfly in the manifold opens it causes a vacuum to develope in front of the butterfly where the vacuum line for the EGR valve is connected this then opens the valve allowing exhaust gas into the intake of the engine. If you disconnect and plug this vacuum line the EGR will not open and therefo e will not allow exhaust into the intake. If VW connects the line behind the butterfly then it is more tricky as you will need to do more modification to disconnect. You will know the minute you disconnect the line because if it is the other way your eng ne will either run really rough or stall when you disconnect the line from the EGR. Just check the car after servicing because they are trained to reconnect EGR valves.

Comments:
Deenie, I think the timing belt change interval is higher on your subaru because it is a dependability issue for that car where as for a diesel it's a matter of life or death. Your subaru would simply need to be towed to a garage and have a new timing bel installed where as the TDI will need new valves heads pistons and a timing belt. Also, I there is a greater strain on it because it is also running the fuel pump which I assume is almost as hard to turn as an air conditioner compressor seeing as how it i pressurizing the fuel so highly.

Comments:
Someone asked me why I should want to disable the EGR on a Passat tdi. From an article by Paul Snell published in Transport Engineer: "One of the fundamental problems with recirculating diesel engine exhaust gas is that it has lumps in it, in the form of oot particles which unfortunately have an affinity for clinging to the surface of metal. Engine designers and lubricant technologists have battled for years the problems caused by soot, such as thickening oil and blocked piston ring grooves. They have als had to deal with the dreaded phenomenon of bore polishing, caused by soot particles burning to form hard carbon on piston walls between the crown and top ring. "A senior Hino engineer, Takashi Suzuki, admitted during an Institute of Mechanical Engineers onference earlier this year that EGR causes 'severe wear problems', but he expects this to be ameliorated as the sulphur content of fuel is reduced". Paul believes that EGR has the potential to reduce engine life by 25 per cent or more, and points out tha the advent of EGR systems on diesels is somewhat at odds with the lengthening of service intervals." - Taken from Diesel Car magazine, Feb 1999. It looks as though anyone who owns a car with EGR would be advised to periodically clean out the pipes between the EGR valve and the turbo intake. Some of them are going to find a black gunge in there. Apparently using synthetic oil reduces the problem. I would like to know how one could disable the EGR valve.

Comments:
Looks like I've found my Passat. Here's the details:- Passat tdi estate (wagon) CL Dark blue with cloth seats (i.e. basic) Feb 1996 N plate 43,000 miles Full VW service history Air con Sony stereo Immobiliser / alarm Twin airbags but no ABS :-( No roof rails either Height adj steering column and electric mirrors, which I thought CL didn't have. Never been crashed (or even scratched / dented), though the black plastic front grill is cracked (the one where the badge sits). Needs a good wash and clean out, but nothing is damaged / worn. My company is selling it, so I know everything is honest. I drove it around for about 2 hrs yesterday (another advantage of buying from my company) and checked that everything worked. They want £8200 for it including a one year warranty (might not be worth much), I reckon that's a good deal. I have some questions:- 1. Do they ever blow head gaskets (like Peugeot diesels do, my Peugeot now has Porsche 928 head studs / nuts)? 2. Is the air con reliable? 3. Is there anything else which does break? 4. The car has 3 pairs of lighting positions on the front bumpers which are blanked off (like all Passats in the UK). The inner pair is where the factory fit front fog lights go; what are the other 2 pairs for? Do the US cars have yellow lights in the bum ers? If so how powerful are they (7W or 21W)? If so I might get some and fit them. 5. I'm tempted to disconnect the EGR (so that engine lasts longer), is it easy to do? I just have to wait a few weeks till the fellow who's driving it now gets his new car. Thanks.

Comments:
I was reading the owner's manual the other day & was surprised to find that it recommends that the timing belt be changed at 40K miles. Is this realistic? or ultra-conservative? Any thoughts? Is this due to extra stress on the belt due to the turbo-charging? My gas engined Subaru is rated to go 60K miles per timing belt change. TDI --> Terrific Driving Instrument Be intercool, Deenie

Comments:
Roger, I don't think the other guy realized that these Jettas were already pre-wired. There is some discussion of aftermarket CD changers in earlier posts. I believe someone said that it was Panasonic and Clarion who made the in-dash units. The guy sai that if your tape deck slot cover had a tab sticking out of it, it was a Clarion. If it didn't have one, it was a Panasonic. Mine had the tab, so I bought a Clarion CDC-635 at a local place called Ovation for $289. It simply plugged right in and was v ry easy to install. (I'm far from being handy.) You can put it on the left side (that's what I did) or hang it from the top. If you also have a Clarion, you can call 1-800-GO CLARION to see who sells that brand in your area.

Comments:
Any thoughts on fitting a 110 TDi engine in the mk2 Golf - the best version - has anyone tried it or have any knowledge??

Comments:
Again on the antifreeze matter.... DEX-COOL search on the net got me to a Texaco site(http://www.texaco.com/tlc/products/havololantec.htm) that described the features of the new generation red (or pink, or orange, or whatever) mixture as being "longer las ing, up to 150.000 miles or 5 years for internal combustion engines" and having lower RA (sort of alkalinity indicator of the product) and lower Ph than traditional coolant products. As a matter of facts the DEX-COOL line seems to be a slightly more acid ixture than the one we commonly used on our engines up to some years ago. This does not seem to mean that mixing the orange coolant with the previous generation ones simply turns engines into buckets of mud; either VW designed a new line of engines with dissimilar metals coupled together that would REQUIRE more acid (or less ba ic) coolant mixtures in order to prevent their corrosion, or mixing the coolants (or at last simply switching to the old generation coolants at the first engine coolant change) will simply mean that their life has to be reduced to the classical 2 years/50 000 miles we are used to.

Comments:
Two answers. 1. The blown tweeter should be covered under warranty, if your car is still under warranty. Also, I think the tweeter is hold on by a "sticky washer" around the circumferance of the tweeter. So you just genty pull it loose. 2. DO NOT MIX the antifreeze colors. VW made a change from the Green to the Red several years ago. If you mix them, they turn to muck and really mess your engine up big time!!

Comments:
In regards to adding the CD changer, I added one to two 96 passats about a year ago. The proccess is pretty simple. First get the equipment from Sound Ideas (516-864-6548). You will need the adapter and changer, depending on your year/model the unit is ei her a Panasonic or a Clarion. Then pull you stereo out (there are two levers on the side of the unit that release it from the dashboard), but do not disconnect the wires (the security feature will require you to get the code if the power is disconnected) Then plug the adapter into the back of the stereo and the changer cable into the adapter. You will need to tap a power off of the fuse box for the changer. The changer cord needs to be run down the drivers side floor (there is a channel if you remove the plastic kick plate) and into the trunk. I mouned mine to the top of the trunk. Good luck!

Comments:
Hi, all: I recently turned up music too loud and blew out my front passenger tweeter. Does anyone out there in TDI Land know how to remove it? (I was able to take the grill off, but couldn't figure...) Any ideas on where to order one of these (besides the dealer)? thanks

Comments:
Hi, folks. After all the oil and filters stuff, I could only find a few words relevant to the anti-freeze subject in some old E-mail. Any idea of why we have to use pink or orange color anti freeze (apart from royalties) and if there is any REAL problem in using the standard blue colored ethilene glycol based products? Any experience of Tdis bursting into pieces because of blue anti-freeze? Don't you think this pink/orange matter is really some sort of tricky way to make us pay more for getting exactly the same stuff? Ciao to everibody

Comments:
I was told at my VW dealership today that the 2000 Passat may have a diesel motor as an option for it. Does anyone know anything more as to the likelyhood of a diesel being an option for this car?

Comments:
Has anyone put in an aftermarket CD changer? Which one will work without cutting wires? Thanks!

Comments:
Yo Visit Me: in the early days of Mobil 1 seals shrinking and swelling was a BIG problem. Oil manufacturers had to sort out additives to end the problem. You are right that it is not a consideration today.

Comments:
Can anyone recommend a parts supplier where I can get a suitable fuel filter for my TDI at a reasonable price? Thanks.

Comments:
Greg, I am aware of the Tech Bulletin only from this web page. Regardless, it's beyond me how VW can charge you. Won't repeat your logic..makes sense to me. Do you think the Dealer is misinformed, and it's the dealer charging you. And maybe the dealer didn't "explain it right" to VW? At a very minimum, I am not sure that any dealer is allowed to keep your property??? Can you and VW allow you to pay half now, and settle this later? This just doesn't seem right to me. The fix is not a warranty issue.

Comments:
Is there anyone with a 96 passat tdi who has had the Technical Service Bulletin 97-02 performed outside the warranty period of 24 k miles or 2 years ? This is a VW recommended service to correct the fuel injector overloading problem which causes the most obvious problem of excessive exhaust smoke. There are different injectors and engine control module to replace the original components. Meaning,to logi al reasoning, the original parts were the wrong parts. I do not see the legal ability VW has for invoking the warranty, with the prescribed limits of mileage and time, to apply to the replacement of parts which were the wrong parts from the beginning. My +60 k miles are causing VW of America to attempt to evade paying for what, I believe, they should legitimately be paying for. The work has been performed. They want about $1,800.00 . My car is in hock at the dealer as I write. Any information which would assist me in inducing VW to foot the bill for this would be greatly appreciated. The sooner, the better Thanks TDI fans.

Comments:
Hi all, Has anyone else been experiencing their oil light beeping and blinking at startup? I've not changed my oil except by VW (so no aftermarket filters), and I've had the thing pressure checked both hot and cold by the dealer. Regardless, every 10 days or so the oil light blinks and beeps at me when I start the car up cold. My VW dealership (which leaves a LOT to be desired) has never heard of this. I don't believe them. Anyone else experiencing this? Email me! Thanks, Mark

Comments:
Hello people! Synthetic oil or any other motor oil DOES NOT CAUSE LEAKS! Leaks are caused by a seal failure, pure and simple. Seals get old, worn, cracked from heat fatigue etc., but they do not fail because of synthetic motor oil. Lets be reasonable here people, if synthetic oil, caused seal failure then our engines would be lubricated by something other than that which people think caused the failure. If synthetic oil leaks past a seal then obviously the seal is WORN. The oil did not cause the leak, the poor main ance on the engine using junk motor oil, that lost the ability to neutralize harmful acids caused the leak. These type of things will cause seals to deteriorate. So if you want to drive your car to live a long and healthy life give it something to keep t lubricated SYNTHETIC.

Comments:
Hello people! Synthetic oil or any other motor oil DOES NOT CAUSE LEAKS! Leaks are caused by a seal failure, pure and simple. Seals get old, worn, cracked from heat fatigue etc., but they do not fail because of synthetic motor oil. Lets be reasonable here people, if synthetic oil, caused seal failure then our engines would be lubricated by something other than that which people think caused the failure. If synthetic oil leaks past a seal then obviously the seal is WORN. The oil did not cause the leak, the poor main ance on the engine using junk motor oil, that lost the ability to neutralize harmful acids caused the leak. These type of things will cause seals to deteriorate. So if you want to drive your car to live a long and healthy life give it something to keep t lubricated SYNTHETIC.

02/01/99 18:29:51

Name: Jeff Anderson
My Email: Email Me	City: Cedarburg
Province/State: WI	Your VW/Audi: 97 Passat TDI

Comments:
In response to Amzoil, I used it once, it caused serious seal leakage in my BMW cycle so I never used it again. I use Delvac 1 synthetic in the TDI, and Mobil 1 in the BMW E36 325is. In all fairness, the Amzoil try was a long time ago, 1980. It took more han 15 years to be convinced to try synthetics again. The Mobil/Delvac products seem to work well, maybe mileage is better, but can't complain at mid 40s to low 50s for the Passat tdi with 42k miles, the car is hammered on the highway.

Comments:
Has anyone noticed their PS pump getting noisey? I only have 19K miles on it, plus it's only 8 months old. All my driving is straight highway, so the power steering is only strained occasionally. I have trouble believing that it is worn from over use.< >

Comments:
Well here goes the oil subject again. In response to Rick asking who has a good response using Amsoil synthetic. I have! I use the 5w30 series 3000 diesel oil and my MPG went from 48 to 55. I also use the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I know opinions n oil are all over the board, especially with synthetics, but I believe Amsoil has a superior product and I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. I will put up $$$$ to any TDi owner who uses any other oil, to prove with an oil analysis that, they have a superior product. The fact that my car has always used Amsoil in its 33K miles, gives me an edge on wear!!! How many TDi owners using other oils can say that they drive at high speed (80 plus on the highway) and use about 1/5 quart of oil over a 0K period. All you oil bashers put you money where your mouth is and let let the lab analysis see what is really happening inside YOUR engines. My wear percentages were so low on the last analysis that wear was almost non existent! Any takers! PS If anybody can show me a better oil then I will switch!

Comments:
Well here goes the oil subject again. In response to Rick asking who has a good response using Amsoil synthetic. I have! I use the 5w30 series 3000 diesel oil and my MPG went from 48 to 55. I also use the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I know opinions n oil are all over the board, especially with synthetics, but I believe Amsoil has a superior product and I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. I will put up $$$$ to any TDi owner who uses any other oil, to prove with an oil analysis that, they have a superior product. The fact that my car has always used Amsoil in its 33K miles, gives me an edge on wear!!! How many TDi owners using other oils can say that they drive at high speed (80 plus on the highway) and use about 1/5 quart of oil over a 0K period. All you oil bashers put you money where your mouth is and let let the lab analysis see what is really happening inside YOUR engines. My wear percentages were so low on the last analysis that wear was almost non existent! Any takers! PS If anybody can show me a better oil then I will switch!

Comments:
Well here goes the oil subject again. In response to Rick asking who has a good response using Amsoil synthetic. I have! I use the 5w30 series 3000 diesel oil and my MPG went from 48 to 55. I also use the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I know opinions n oil are all over the board, especially with synthetics, but I believe Amsoil has a superior product and I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. I will put up $$$$ to any TDi owner who uses any other oil, to prove with an oil analysis that, they have a superior product. The fact that my car has always used Amsoil in its 33K miles, gives me an edge on wear!!! How many TDi owners using other oils can say that they drive at high speed (80 plus on the highway) and use about 1/5 quart of oil over a 0K period. All you oil bashers put you money where your mouth is and let let the lab analysis see what is really happening inside YOUR engines. My wear percentages were so low on the last analysis that wear was almost non existent! Any takers! PS If anybody can show me a better oil then I will switch!

Comments:
Well here goes the oil subject again. In response to Rick asking who has a good response using Amsoil synthetic. I have! I use the 5w30 series 3000 diesel oil and my MPG went from 48 to 55. I also use the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I know opinions n oil are all over the board, especially with synthetics, but I believe Amsoil has a superior product and I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. I will put up $$$$ to any TDi owner who uses any other oil, to prove with an oil analysis that, they have a superior product. The fact that my car has always used Amsoil in its 33K miles, gives me an edge on wear!!! How many TDi owners using other oils can say that they drive at high speed (80 plus on the highway) and use about 1/5 quart of oil over a 0K period. All you oil bashers put you money where your mouth is and let let the lab analysis see what is really happening inside YOUR engines. My wear percentages were so low on the last analysis that wear was almost non existent! Any takers! PS If anybody can show me a better oil then I will switch!

Comments:
Well here goes the oil subject again. In response to Rick asking who has a good response using Amsoil synthetic. I have! I use the 5w30 series 3000 diesel oil and my MPG went from 48 to 55. I also use the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I know opinions n oil are all over the board, especially with synthetics, but I believe Amsoil has a superior product and I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. I will put up $$$$ to any TDi owner who uses any other oil, to prove with an oil analysis that, they have a superior product. The fact that my car has always used Amsoil in its 33K miles, gives me an edge on wear!!! How many TDi owners using other oils can say that they drive at high speed (80 plus on the highway) and use about 1/5 quart of oil over a 0K period. All you oil bashers put you money where your mouth is and let let the lab analysis see what is really happening inside YOUR engines. My wear percentages were so low on the last analysis that wear was almost non existent! Any takers! PS If anybody can show me a better oil then I will switch!

Comments:
Ric Woodriff: I bet if you look at the fine print for the royal purple, it is a 3% fuel increase over standard petroleum based oil (as opposed to synthetic). From my dealings with Amsoil in the past, all of their claims of better performance and test results were almost always when compared to std oils.

Comments:
Well, folks, the verdict is in on Royal Purple synthetic motor oil: I was expecting about a 3% increase in fuel economy, but after several tankfuls, the fuel economy is virtually the same as my 50/50 mix of Shell Rotella 15W-40 and Mobil 1 20W-50 syntheti , even though Royal Purple promises "More Horsepower Better Gas Mileage Reduced Emissions", etc. For my next 10,000 mile oil change, I plan to try AMSOIL Diesel motor oil. Does anyone have a positive result to report about AMSOIL?

Comments:
Just closed the deal on a Golf TDI coupe, indigo blue, 5-speed manual. The MSRP was 16,720 with shipping and I got it for 16,100. Maybe could have gotten it lower yet, but it seemed a fair price. We pick it up this afternoon, 1/30/99. I got it mainly for he engine and the economy, but it seems to be a fairly potent accelerator and fun to drive. This afternoon I will take it out for a real test of its abilities. I am excited!!!

Comments:
To Craig Marley from Kitchener: Gas here in Chatham is hovering around 45 cents/litre, it's never been that cheap in the 5 years that I've been driving until now. Diesel here is still 46.9/litre, which isn't so great, but I know that diesel engines are mo e efficient, and gas prices will rise again sooner or later, while diesel will still be waiting for me at the constant price of 46.9. Long live diesel technology! http://members.xoom.com/jettaboy

Comments:
Fellow TDI fans: The lease on my TDI will be up in mid March and I've decided to take a break from shifting. My buy-back is low and I would be willing to split the advantage with a buyer for my car! Here is a description: "97 Passat TDI sedan, 11,300 mile , Black Magic, sun roof, cd changer, alloy wheels, Bently shop manual. Very clean in & out. No dents or scratches!! E-mail me for price if interested.

Comments:
Well,i was very surprised when i saw that some people care about the Vw Tdi engines.I don´t have a Vw neither a Audi,but i have a seat,that,just everybody knows,belongs to the huge group of Vw.I´m very satisfied with this engine(110 Cv),and tthat´s one of the most competitive engines in Europe.Of course that there are many other manufacturers,but anyone can reach the Tdi power.I would like to knowif anyone that read this message,have already submitted the car for a engone power test(just for the 110 cv eng ne!!),because i heard that these cars are more powerful that they declare... see you... João

Comments:
Well,i was very surprised when i saw that some people care about the Vw Tdi engines.I don´t have a Vw neither a Audi,but i have a seat,that,just everybody knows,belongs to the huge group of Vw.I´m very satisfied with this engine(110 Cv),and tthat´s one of the most competitive engines in Europe.Of course that there are many other manufacturers,but anyone can reach the Tdi power.I would like to knowif anyone that read this message,have already submitted the car for a engone power test(just for the 110 cv eng ne!!),because i heard that these cars are more powerful that they declare... see you... João

Comments:
About biodiesel emissions: I recently wrote a term paper for my college chem. class on this topic. The research materials that I found claim that biodiesel emissions are lower in Sulfur and particulates (dust). The fuel is also more oxygenated than petrodiesel which allows for redu ed hydrocarbon levels. Also, biodiesel is completely biodegradable, making it safer to transport - especially in marine applications. Yes, the fuel does cause an increase in injector coking and seal deterioration when burned straight. However, when blended with petrodiesel fuel, there are no real drawbacks. In fact, when burning blends with ratios as low as 20%bio/80%petro the emissions are greatly improved. Just wanted to babble a little more about biodiesel. Happy oil-burning!

Comments:
I'm a first time Vee Dub owner. After some persuasion my wife convinced me to purchase an NB. Our compromise was that it had to be diesel. I'm an ex-trucker and sometimes I miss the smell of diesel smoke in the air! She, my wife has owned three VW's and wanted another. The NB was purchased Dec. '98 and we are very, very pleased with the ride, p rformance, and of course the fuel efficiency. We recently went on a trip to San Antonio (five hours from Dallas @ 80 mph). We spent three days sightseeing/cruising and did the return trip all on one tank of gas! My only complaint would be the lack of a termarket items available, but I'm sure that will change in time. I love driving this little "Black Beauty" so much that my '82 Harley hasn't seen the road since Dec. Regards, J. Castro/Dallas

Comments:
If I were going to get "frier fuel" I'd want to get it from a KFC Extra Spicy vat rather than from Popeye's. Also I'd probably try to get the oil from Chinese restaurants, I like Chinese food. But don't you think that VW would only certify grease from D r Wienerschnitzel, and they'd probably add red die to it and mark it up an extra $.15/gallon. As to the pollution issue, does frier grease have sulfur/sulfites? From what I hear that's a big problem with diesel emissions.

Comments:
Casey, go for the Beetle TDI. I really wasn't concerned with fuel cost when I purchased mine. My purchase was based on the fact that my best friend's family growing up had a Rabbit diesel that they had for 15 years and 400,000+ miles on it when they sold it to a kid down the street. My aunt had a Mercedes diesel when I was in middle school and as far as I know it is still running. (I'm 35 and the car is in Florida and she died.) Anyway, I love mine I am soooooo spoiled with the crusing range that I will n ver go back to gas again. I went round trip Cleveland to Indianapolins on one tank of diesel. When I have a period of not really traveling other than to and from work (16 miles / day) and out to dinner a few times a week and maybe meeting friends at a lo al bar here and there, I only buy diesel once every 3 weeks! The power is fine noise level is fine. I LOVE IT>

Comments:
Couldn't resist some comments based on several threads here (all numbers in metric): 1. My timing belt broke on my 85 TD at 258,000 KM about 6 years ago. Back then we didn't know they had to be replaced periodically so never did. Have 160,000 KM on replacement. 2. It is my understanding that to blend winter diesel here they add kerosene, which gives less mileage and slightly more engine wear. 3. I ran some furnace oil in a 78 rabbit diesel but mixed it with diesel. The furnace oil was thicker. My buddy ran straight furnace oil for a long period. It ran hotter and dirtier. He got phenominal mileage (20%+) and more HP on furnace oil. I think he had to change oil more often and blamed engine wear on the furnace oil. Not worth it! 4. Diesel here is 44.9 c/L while gas is 3 to 9 cents more! In the 20 years I have been driving VW diesels, I figured I have saved at least $10,000- $20,000 in fuel costs over gas. 5. Currently driving over 50,000 KM a year and my 85 (close to TDI mileage) saved me $750 -$1000 over typcial gas car in 1998. (My wife an I now drive matching Accords, but I would rather have a new Jetta TDI if money wasn't the factor. Still have the re ired 85 Jetta.). 6. Have much to say on the myth of longevity of VW diesels but will save that for another message. - Craig

Comments:
I have never seen a TDI VW/AUDI, but I like what I hear, can some one get some info for me ? #1) is the block, and head aluminium ? #2) how much do the 4 cyl./5cyl. engines weigh? #3) can these be found in Canada? Thanks Much Gus

Comments:
Thinking about a 99 New Beetle TDI... Just thought I would offer some fuel pricing comparisons from my part of the world. In Des Moines, Iowa, regular unleaded is about $0.77/gallon. Diesel is around $0.90. In Ames (about 30 miles away from Des Moines), unleaded is around $0.87 and diesel round $0.95. The local VW dealership only has 1 TDI right now, a 99 Golf GL. I'm hoping to test drive it shortly. I won't be buying a car for 6-9 months at least, and I'm still heavily leaning towards a New Beetle TDI.

Comments:
Mind you, At least I'm saving over 60% on fuel over my last vehicle. ;-)

(and I realise that the $1.50 was expensive relative to petroleum.)

Comments:
$1.50 is expensive? You guys don't know you're born! :-)

Diesel around here is 63.9 pence per litre. At 1.75 pint/litre, 5 pints per US gallon, and 1.7 dollars per pound, that makes $3.10 per gallon.

Something like 80% of it is tax.

Comments:
OK. So most are of the opinion that different fuels can be burned by the TDI's. But the question still remains: what, if any, damage do such fuels cause? I remember, just as I was moving back from Germany to the US, they were having a problem w/ the publi buses that were burning Bio diesel (it was still in the expermintal phase at that time). Seems that the biodiesel was eating away at the seals. Dont know if this problem has been solved, but if I poured kerosene in the tank, will the fuel filter get clog ed, or seals corrode, or anything else like that? Any ideas?

Comments:
I'm considering the purchase of a New Beetle in the next year or so, and the model with the T.D.I. diesel intrigues me the most. I've driven a couple of Toyota gas cars in the past which I've driven about 180k until I've sold them.(pretty rusty but still running well) The two biggest questions I have are these-First, how many miles can I expect to rack up on a T.D.I. before it gives out? Second, how much of a challenge is it to start it and keep it runing in a cold weather environment? Any answers would be greatly appreciated' Thanks, Dan

Comments:
I'm sure that it's very rare to get "busted" for using heating oil in vehicles -- I was just pointing out that it's illegal. (And in most places up north, heating oil tends to be considerably cheaper than road diesel.) As for the poster who wondered why anyone would buy Biodiesel at $1.50 a gallon: First of all, that's a typical price for diesel in the Chicago area (perhaps a dime pricier). Second, even if one were to compare Biodiesel at 50% higher prices than regular diesel, I think lots of people wo ld be interested in buying it -- (1) our TDIs get such high mileage that the cost increase would be fairly low on a per-mile basis, (2) Biodiesel comes from renewable sources, so it lowers dependence on non-renewable, and mostly imported, oil, and (3) it urns cleaner, meaning both that it makes for lower emissions from a regulatory/overal air quality standpoint, and it smells cleaner when you're standing next to your car, idling in traffic, etc. Now, even if you don't think much of the environmental movement, those are some pretty good reasons to prefer Biodiesel to petroleum based fuel. Those who prefer Biodiesel presumably would be willing to pay something extra for it. In most places, $1.50 s probably too much extra for most people. But depending on how the fuel would be taxed, it might be feasible and competitive to sell it in expensive-gas, high-smog areas like NY/NJ or CA cities. Plus, it'll be nice if some of these experimental Biodies l production projects get bigger -- economies of scale could bring that $1.50 price down.

Comments:
Regarding using heating oil in a TDI: The odds of one of us getting "busted" for using heating oil in our TDI's is probably a lot less than the sun not coming up tomorrow. The only place you can get caught is at a truck weigh station or agricultural insp ction station, and even then it probably happens RARELY to 18-wheelers. By the way, here in Florida, home heating oil costs quite a bit more than diesel anyways, so who would use it? Lastly, there is a company in Lakeland, FL that manufactures/sells bio iesel. Last time I checked, it costs about $1.50 per gallon, when you buy it by the 55 gallon drum. So who would buy that either?

Comments:
RE: Talk of Veggie-TDIs....Hold on boys! Let's keep it simple. Diesel right out of the pump will cost you less than $300/year. (based on 12,000 miles/yr.) Just how much money do you think you will save if you go to all the trouble of blending frier oil wi h additives? Not much I'll bet. You 're not going to save the environment much either. Anyway, this conversation is better than talking about motor oil all the time....but hey!!!we're still talking about OIL!!!...oh well...Mike...Out..

Comments:
RE: "alternative" fuels I've checked out the Veggie Van web site, and the process they describe for "refining" used cooking oil sounds very interesting, and not *too* difficult. It's definitely a few steps beyond just funneling the fryer pan into your tank. (They combine the o l with methanol, using lye as a catalyst I believe, then filter this mixture overnight.) As for home heating oil -- As an earlier poster mentioned, it *is* diesel fuel (though I'm not sure which additives it uses -- i.e. whether it's more like "summer fuel" or "winter fuel," and what the cetane rating would be). However, it's important to no e that it is illegal to use home heatin oil in vehicles on public roads. Road fuel is taxed at a higher rate -- home heating oil at a lower one. I believe that home heating oil is dyed, as is the diesel for commercial sea-going vessels, to prevent peopl from using it in cars/trucks. The dye is very strong, and will show up even if diluted -- i.e., after many refuelings. I have no idea (a) how much a typical mechanic would care if he or she spotted the telltale dye in your fuel pump, or (b) what the pe alties are for using non-taxed oil in your car. But even though it should work fine for the car, it's not a good idea to do it, since it's against the law. (If it's a real emergency, then perhaps the authorities would find it justifiable, but if you jus ran out of gas in your driveway, perhaps the cooking oil solution, or the old "grab a gas can and get a ride to the station" approach would be smarter.) Since there are all these rules about using non- (or low-) taxed diesel in cars and trucks, I've been wondering if their are any regulations regarding the type of alternative fuels used in the Veggie Van. I'm guessing there aren't, since the idea is pret y new, and the practice is far from widespread. But I don't know. Assuming the emissions are about the same or less than regular diesel, I don't see why the authorizties should be too worried about homebrew fuels. But I wonder what would happen if you et up an alternative fueling station for your neighbors in your garage?

Comments:
HEY TDI's ROCK!!! I am in college in maine and the local dealer Darlings has 2 golf IV's tdi 2door (4doors suck!!) $16,400 nice cars i want one but cash is tight... does any one know of any tdi engines for asle from wrecked cars? or a wrecked complete car like passat or jetta?....i want to swap into a A1 chassis....i want to know when the new 115hp tdi will show up here it has no injection pump sweet ..rocker arm acu ted injectors 20000 psi pressure!! in the injectors ( same as big rigs) that in a golf IV 2door with heated leather and sunroof would be the sh*t ...i have the vw of germany brochures for the golf IV with the 4 motion 4wd system sweet !! and the gti versi n of the tdi here are the prices in DM highline version 4motion =39,700 and tdi gti= 41,900 the gti version has way better seats and suspension plus thre MFA computer which is sweet in a diesel if i bought one i would look into having a mfa guage cluster imported... I have several rabbit and rabbit pickup diesels and just picked up 2 TD engines from '84 jettas but want some TDI's help me out with the wrecked or blownup TDI leads!!! thanks deo

Comments:
Yes, you can burn cooking oil, kerosene, and especially heating oil, because it it EXACTLY the same as diesel fuel, only the name is different. I work at Cape Canaveral Air Station, where we launch ATLAS and TITAN vehicles, and you can even burn RP-1 Roc et Propellent (also essentially the same as Kerosene).

Comments:
In response to the person wanting to cut the whole in the lower engine cover. I asked the dealership if it is truely necessary to have this cover on the car. They contacted VWofA, and they said it was for noise dampening only. And that removal of it wo ld not effect the warranty in any way. So I asked them to remove the cover so I can do my usual inspections every month or so. I travel down dirt roads alot and haven't noticed the engine getting dirty yet. The shield was removed last October! I mainl removed the shield because it was masking the oil leak that was from my turbo. Happy TDi'ng!

Comments:
Was just having these same thoughts the other day. What if, for example, you ran out of diesel next to a camping store. I've heard that the TDi will burn kerosene. Will it? Anyone tried? I wonder if it will damage the engine, burning kerosene to get to t e next diesel pump. How about heating oil? If you're stuck by some house, and there is nothing else for the next 20 miles, would buying a few gallons of heating oil from that house owner be enough to get you to the next diesel pump? Anyone know of potenti l damage to the engine? Corn oil? Olive oil? What else can be burned??

Comments:
Hey, you'all. Excellent page, and some great insights fellow dieselers. I am quite pleased with my set of wheels. I can't imagine how much more of an improvement direct injection must be! The only complaint that I have is that this is the first car t at I have had that is a "stone-chip magnet". ( I don't tail gate behind cars, or drive on gravel). No matter what, the hood and grill look like they have been sandblasted. Well anyway enough of my bitch'n. *** Does anybody know of a deflective shield out there that is not flat and cheesy looking, something that actually has contour and looks like it was meant to fit the Golf? (Don't really like bras too much). Cheers, Have a good one.

Comments:
Perhaps i'm beating this biodiesel thing to death, but, I ran straight corn oil in my old '84 Rabbit diesel once (I was stranded with groceries in the car) and it got me to the nearest fuel oil station without a problem. It did smell like a Mexican restau ant while I was driving (corn chips).

Comments:
I tried biodiesel one time, but it gave me gas!

Comments:
above is the URL for "fryer to the fuel tank"

Comments:
above is the URL for "fryer to the fuel tank"

Comments:
Had a bad weekend first my friend curbed my door into a concrete sidewalk. No dent just paint scraped off. 10 minutes later I drove through a construction hole that someone must have taken the cones away from and bent my rim. The city is sending me claim orms. I was very happy to find that my dealer has a stock of the Beetle 16" alloy's in stock that people have swapped for 17" and Chrome wheels, so they sold it to me for $100.00 I'm thinking of getting another one for my spare at that price. I had an i ea. (scary thought) I was thinking of cutting a hole in the engine compartment splash cover under the car right where the drain plug is so that I don't have to remove the 8 or 12 screws to change my oil. I was just wondering if road grime might get in an corrode the aluminum oil pan and plug itself. Any thought?

Comments:
TO SOL IN CHICAGO: You better stick to thinking of inovative ways to service our Jettas (the oil filter trick was a good example). I'm not to sure about the TDI veggie-fuel thing Sol. Anyway, stay in touch....Great Input....Mike...Out...

Comments:
To Sol of Chicago: will you please tell me something more wrt the book "Out of the frier into the fuel tank" you' re referring to in your message of Jan 26 ? I can' t contact you via the URL you' ve given in Fred's page. Ciao to everybody

Comments:
i would like to know the vin# of tdi's so i can locate some before i see them. maybe a few of you lucky tdi owners could go look on your cars and tell me. or maybe somebody already knows a certain distinction method. if we get alot of people to tell what here cars are we will be able to figure things out. like where there made and other cool things.i believe there are tags on theinside of the door jam you can chack there thanks a bunch.

Comments:
I just ordered the book "Out of the frier into the fuel tank" written by a couple of chemists who travel across the USA in a diesel RV fueled exclusively by "homebrew" fuel made of used fry oil. The method they use seems quite simple. Has anyone tried it? or read about it? Biodiesel co-ops could be a good way to produce cheap, tax-free fuel oil. Well, I think it would be cool, at least...

Comments:
TO SOL OF CHICAGO: Excellent tip on removing the TDI Jetta oil filter. That makes changing the filter a hella-of-a-lot easier. See, this web-site is GREAT!....Mike...Out...

Comments:
I just purchased a new 1999 Jetta TDI, and I love it. The old diesel sound is non-existant, and fuel economy is amazing. Also, its performance is incredible. I think its faster than any normal 5-speed! If anyone has anymore information on the TDI fee free to e-mail me.

Comments:
The lupo will be available in two di versions in germany next month. A 1.7 Sdi with a torque of 115 Nm, between 2.200 rps upto 3.000 rps (60HP)and a diesel consumption of 5,9 l/100 km within the city and on the highway 3,6 l/100km. A top speed of 157 km/h. From 0-100 km/h in 16.8 seconds. No automatic transmission is planned. The second one is a 1.2 Tdi with a torque of 140 NM starting at 2000 rps (61HP)and a diesel consumption of 2.99 at the higway. The top speed is 165 km/h. From 0-100 km/h in 13.9 seconds. This vehicle is equipped with a semi-automatic 5 speed transmission. p>

Comments:
HELP !!! HELP !!! HELP !!! My stupid car has now gone and blown itself up again. Trouble is the car has only 54600kms.and the timing belt has shredded itself and caused the valves to collide with pistons inside the block. good old interference engines. Now this might be explained as perhaps being an anomaly, a bad belt that made it past QC, however it was AAAALSO replaced at 32000 kms. and the belt was strained and ripped in the fashion. Now VW tells me that it's probabaly the tensioner that caused this failure. Each visit is covered under the parts warranty but if you go out of that, it will cost someone close to $2500. to replace the head and any other pistons or internal parts. Try handling that!!! concerning VW Mobility -- for the times that I have had use them, their response times have been great. If there has been anyone out there that has experienced this sort of catastrophic failure tap me back GOOD DAY eh!!

Comments:
About the oil changing problems. Dave (from Chicago), I actually found it harder to remove the oil filter from under the car (I spilled every time). My new method involves removing the A/C hose "bracket" next to the filter (only one nut!) so that the filter may be lifted up and out thru the hood. This alleviates the hassle of removing the cover under the engine; in fact you don't even have to jack up the car, since the drain plug is exposed.

Comments:
HEjjjjjjjjj THIS is a great site.. with great tdi users I love TDI !! TDI is a god... fuck benzin !! ehhh so

Comments:
Considering a 99 Golf IV TDI. Looking for some info on TDI emissions are compared to the gas engine. Basically, on a per mile basis which one is cleaner. Also looking for opinions on TDI noise levels (inside the cabin) as compared to the gas engine.

Comments:
I found an interesting article on the Jetta III TDI. About as good of a write up as you would expect from a gasoline driving journalist. VW Civilizes Diesel - Almost BY ALAN VONDERHAAR The Cincinnati Enquirer The union of diesel and turbocharger is a marriage made in heaven. The inherent thriftiness of a diesel goes hand in hand with its rather low specific output. It finds its happiest home in situations where it can purr away merrily day and night at constant rpms, as on ocean-going freighters. It's poorly suited to automobiles for a number of reasons - noise, vibration, smoke, smell, low power, difficulty of finding fuel, problems in cold weather - but in some people's minds, that all takes a back seat to fuel mileage. Pinching pennies The car of the week, a Volkswagen Jetta TDI, popped up recently near the top of the Environmental Protection Agency's list of the thriftiest vehicles sold in this country, as well it might, with ratings of 40 mpg city, 49 highway. An essentially identical model, with the standard four-cylinder gasoline engine, gets 24/31. Is that a compelling reason to buy the diesel? Let's do a math exercise. Let's say an average motorist (one who drives 15,000 miles a year), does most of her commuting at highway speeds and achieves the EPA estimate. She'll burn 306 gallons of diesel fuel, 484 gallons of gasoline, using the EPA numbers. Diesel fuel once was much cheaper than gasoline. Now it is generally on a par with regular unleaded, even though it is less refined. The Energy Information Agency, a unit of the U.S. Energy Department, does a weekly survey of energy prices throughout the country. For the last week in October, it found the average retail price of a gallon of diesel fuel was $1.162. Regular unleaded gasoline was $1.182, and that includes the much-pricier special brews that have to be sold in noncompliant emissions areas. Plugging in those figures, we have an annual outlay of $355 for diesel fuel, $572 for gasoline - a difference of $117. The spread will grow as mileage goes up, of course. Diesels have a great rep for reliability, but that derives more from huge, over-the-road machines which are purpose-built to go 300,000-500,000 miles between overhauls. I wouldn't assume a small passenger-car diesel would do any better or worse than a comparable spark-ignition mill. VW has done an excellent job of taming the four-banger it uses in the Jetta, but I'd want a lot more than $117 worth of reasons to adopt one of these puppies. I got VW to send one for evaluation; it was a '97 model, but the only major change for 1998 will be the optional availability of side-impact airbags. With glowplugs inside the cylinders and direct fuel injection, it lighted off quickly in the 40-degree weather prevailing during the test. Starting was easy You're supposed to wait for the glowplug indicator to extinguish before turning over the engine; I found the delay almost negligible on the first, cold start of the day and essentially unnoticeable after that. It would be a different story when ambient temperatures fell toward zero. (VW has cleverly built a preheater into the fuel filter, but the owner's manual makes it pretty clear that 10 below is the operational floor, and that's predicated on properly winterized fuel.) You'll never inadvertently engage the starter with the engine running, because the startup clamor is ugly and loud. When the lubricating oil starts circulating throughout the engine, it settles down to the more restrained noise of a gas engine with a thrown rod. Startup is accompanied by a moderate cloud of smoke. Once you get under way, the engine begins to sound more normal, the turbocharger helping to mute the explosions inside the four cylinders. Once the tach approaches 2,000 rpm, all's forgiven. The diesel is no horsepower champ (90 @ 4,000), but with the turbo, this 1.9-liter banger makes 149 foot-pounds of torque at a mere 1,900 rpm, 22 percent more than the standard gas engine makes at 3,200. It's a little sluggish digging out of a hole, but once you're rolling, it feels more akin to the top-of-the-line machine's 6-cylinder engine. The game is over at 4,500 rpm, but in that middle range, it's a hoot. Like all VWs, the Jetta has a good, short-throw shifter and a manageably light clutch. Fourth gear is a slight overdrive ratio on the diesel machine, taking advantage of the torque bulge, and fifth is an 0.81:1 cog, to allow reasonably relaxed highway cruising. Noise level at speed is only moderate, and there's no cognizance of anything funny under the hood. Diesel fuel is stinky stuff - be especially careful at the filling station - and being burned doesn't help it. Your arrival will be heralded by upturned noses, if the clatter doesn't get 'em first. . The TDI's power steering gives very little assist, but at the same time, doesn't detract from the pleasant handling which is characteristic of the Jetta clan. I felt the 195/60/14 tires were the limiting factor when I tried some back-country hustling. You have to go up to the 6-cylinder GLX before 15-inch wheels are standard. Ride quality was good, with some pitching on undulant surfaces, as might be expected with a sub-100-inch wheelbase. Road shocks were properly muffled and the torsion beam rear suspension kept its calm over surfaces that make some vehicles skitterish. The Jetta is a compact, with 88 cubic feet of interior space. Driver and co-pilot are obliged to the detriment of the rear passengers, as well they should be. The rear seats fold down, making the already generous (15 cubic-foot) trunk into a camper's cavern. The tester did not have the optional 4-wheel antilock system, but the disc/drum brakes afforded a good pedal feel and stopping distances within my comfort zone. The car did try to slew a bit when I jammed the brakes on at 70, but recovered nicely when I pumped manually. The machine I borrowed had the optional stereo, which seemed well worth the $485 incremental cost. Tuner sensitivity and overall tonality were well above average. I got into the turbo a lot in a mix of suburban and highway driving, and still scored 42.6 mpg. VW provides a national directory of diesel filling stops, and I found one in my neighborhood - out of five stations. The Jetta fares very well in statistics compiled by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety for driver fatalities. It gets a rating of ³substantially better than average² when compared with such small four-doors as Toyota Corolla/Geo Prizm, Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer, and Hyundai Elantra. It also had some of the lowest repair costs in its class resulting from 5-mph crashes into barriers and poles. Consumers Union members have rated their Jettas as well above average in most categories, except for body hardware (below average) and the electrical system (just average). This is the last year for what's known as the Jetta III. I wouldn't be put off by that - it's a solid design at a compelling price. Base price on the 1997 Jetta TDI I tested was $15,745. That price includes an anti-theft alarm system, power locks, power steering, dual airbags, remote outside mirrors, tilt wheel (next to useless), cruise control, power trunk release and rear window defogger. The only big hitters missing are air conditioning and antilock. The tester also had California emissions treatment ($100) and the upgraded stereo, for a total of $16,830.

Comments:
My 97 Golf Estate has air con and it was 13,500 from a VW dealership, last September. If that helps.

Between buying the car (12,500 miles) and the 20,000 service I added less than a pint of oil, which seems reasonable to me.

Fuel consumption seems to be 55MPG (UK) on summer fuel, and 50MPG (UK) on winter fuel, with a considerable decrease in efficiency between 70MPH and 80MPH.

I really love this car. I had a break from VW for my last car, and this one proves that I shouldn't have.

BTW. if anyone in the UK has a spare 90hp TDI engine for sale, my company builds engine test rigs, and they're looking for a more modern diesel for the demo/development test cell. I'm not sure I can swing it, but if I can get a TDI on it I'll post the tes results on the web.

Comments:
As a former canadian (Ontario) I am now living in the Netherlands and I just bought a new Golf TDI. I ordered the car in Sept. 98 and my dealer expects to deliver the car in april. I just hope it's worth waiting for. like your home page best regards Fred

Comments:
My quest for a Passat Tdi estate (wagon) here in the UK continues. I'll probably going to auction when the time comes to get my Passat. Anyone can tell me for sure what years / models in the range 94 to 97 had air-con as standard? What's the minimum I'll have to pay for a Tdi estate with air-con? Any answers welcomed.

Comments:
Thieves!!!! Friday I noticed that the dealership that did my last oil change (Midwestern Auto Group in Dublin OH back on 01/11/99) swapped license plate frames. They took off my old frame and replaced it with theirs. Isn't that theft!!! I feel like cal ing the cops for the principle of it.

Comments:
TO CRAIG THOMAS FROM MARYSVILLE OHIO: THE OIL CHANGES ON THE TDI VWS ARE THE HARDEST TO DO OF ANY CAR I HAVE EVER OWNED. I CAN SUGGEST TWO THINGS.1. EITHER TAKE THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP OR 2. TRY VALVOLINE INSTANT OIL CHANGE. THE PROBLEMS THAT I INCURRED WHILE ATTEMPTING MY OWN CHANGES WAS T IS: THERE IS A PLASTIC COVER WHICH HAS TO BE REMOVED IN ORDER TO ACCESS THE OIL FILTER. I HAVE ORDERED AN EXTENTION KIT FROM GRIOTTS GARAGE. THE EXTENTION WOULD NOT STAY IN PLACE, EVEN WITH RUBBER WHEEL CHOCKS. VALVOLINE WILL HONOR COMPETITORS COUPONS AND I HAVE FOUND THEM TO BE VERY PROFESSIONAL. I WOULD ALSO SUGGEST THAT YOU PURCHASE AN OIL FILTER PRIOR TO THE CHANGE AS THEY HAVE WERE OUT OF STOCK AT MY LAST VISIT. REMEMBER TO REPLACE THE DRAIN PLUG GASKET AT EACH CHANGE. THE OIL THAT YOU USE SHOULD HAVE AN OIL RATING OF CF. I HOPE THIS HELPS, CRAIG. HAPPY TDI'ING. DAVE

Comments:
Has anyone tried the power box if so how does it stack up to the wetter chip both are the same price

Comments:
I only get to read this page about once a week due to my work schedule. I too have noticed doubters on this page, concerning TDI performance. I don't go around racing but ocasionally I will show some one who thinks he has a hot car, he should think agai . One in particular comes to mind, a 1997 Maxima and I took off from light and I "dusted" him. Having related this, some said did he even know he was racing? I found this anoying as I would think when he gave up at 90 he had to have an idea. This was t e first and only time I took the Jetta above the century mark. I don't make a practice of this; safety, insurance, life of car etc., but it is anoying when you were there and some people say well the specs say... All cars are different, this one has be n great so far. Very quick and responsive, as fare as fuel economy goes, best tank 49.8mpg, worst 45.5mpg. Average is 46-47 mpg with mixed driving about 60% highway. Some have sighted over 50, I wouldn't mind that, but if this particular car's get up an go is the price with the above listed mpgs, I am more than content.

Comments:
Has anyone on this board in the Chicago area replaced their timing belt? Mine is comning up soon at 60k miles. Where did you have it done? Experience? How did it go? How much did it cost? Thanks in advance

Comments:
Ian, your oil usage might not have anything to do with your break in practices. It could be a turbo bearing leak or something as simple as 1 or afew or all of the valve stem seals. I had them replaced on an old car I had and it's no big deal.

Comments:
After much searching I have become very discouraged. I can not locate a used "diesel injection pump." The part numbers that I have for the old pump don't seem to exist. The car is an 84' Jetta turbo diesel. pump numbers as follows. Bosch NR. 0460494135 VE R 134-2 VW 0881301090 01134852597 If any one can help, send me an E-mail. Thank You!

Comments:
To check for OIL COOLER LEAKS on NB TDI's reach down below the oil filter housing, and under the attached oil cooler. If the plastic nut is oily its a sign that the cooler is loosening and needs to be tightened. A pool of oil on the floor under the car is also an obvious sign for immediate servicing. It's a good idea to check the tightness of the oil cooler nut (18 ft.lb.) at every oil change. Our dealer feels that some of these coolers were not tightened sufficiently at the factory, and installed new coo er seals free of charge.

Comments:
Mike, I can't answer you on how firm the 60k mile timing belt change is, but it is more an insurance issue:). If you want to do it yourself, you'll find a link to a site that explains the whole procedure with pics. There sure is some valuable info out t ere.:) Fred

Comments:
Ian, I the 2 years/60K I've run my Passat I have noticed a very minimal amount of oil usage (@1 pint) between 3K oil changes. I use 15W40 and have had good success with the Fram and Deutsch oil filters, although I have never dissected them to count the paper ilter elements present as some of our esteemed readers have mentioned. Anybody know how firm the 60K timing belt change is re. Passat TDI's? Most of my driving is 100-800 mile days so I am assuming 60-80mph at low rpm's would equate to less engine stress/wear, however this is just a theory. Mike

Comments:
Pete, thanks for your story. I enjoy hearing stories about the TDI. Sometimes I post things to generate a responce from other VW enthusiests (like the devils advocate). How many people find that the TDI uses a fair amount of oil? I have posted this qu stion before and have gotten varied responces. My car uses a significant amount of oil. I have even tried using Mopbil Delvac 1. This has not improved things. I was very careful driving my car during the brake in period. I don't see any puddles under my car. VW says thatis OK for the car to use a as much as a qt. of oil every 800 miles (WOW!). They don't have anything in writing to support this though. I certainly will switch to the cheapest "C" rated 15w/40 when I run out of the initial 4 Gals. of the Delvac I purchased (which at this rate won't be long). Anyone who can either confirm or deny my oil usage with their own experience please write. Thanks -Ian

Comments:
Hi, I've been told (and still believe) that the VW OEM filter is among the best available for our cars. Does anyone know how the NAPA (or any other filter) compares to the VW filter? I'm already of aware of the price difference, so how about a physical comparison. Take Care, Scott

Comments:
Ken, or anybody else: do you know if the NAPA, Deutsch, or Fram filters have an anti-drainback and bypass valve?

Comments:
With reference to oil filters: I am a long time reader of this page even though I have only owned a TDI since last September. In the past, I used the Fram "Extra Gaurd" series filter assuming it was of very high quality. Since reading this post however and finding the NAPA Gold #1191 was a good choice for the TDI, I proceeded to a NAPA store to make a purchase. While there, they had several makes of oil filters cut open in such a way as to allow for total disection and careful inspection. The fram fi ter had approximately 1/3 the number and density of pleats as the NAPA Gold series, and was the poorest filter out of three. The NAPA Gold series was indeed the most impressive. I have been able to purchase these in bulk (6 at a time) for under $7 each. I would be interested to see how the AutoZone's filter looks from the inside, but until I do, my car will continue to have nothing less than the NAPA filter. For those of you using the Fram, I suggest you conduct your own inspection to see first hand th lack of protection that filter actually provides. More pleats/filtration material implies a much larger filtration capacity.

Comments:
Ric, Fram oil filter # is PH3569, or Autuzone Deutsch D534, I've used both in 2yr. 60K with no problems. Fram air filter # is 6545 - fyi. Mike

Comments:
Does anyone have any information on when the automatic transmission will be available for the Tdi equipped vehicles? The 5 speed is a real pain for the amount of city driving I do. Please don't anyone waste space telling me to get a gasoline engine with the auto. I hate gas engines! Happy dieseling!

Comments:
Ian, I read that article too and I got the distinct impression that the author NEVER drove a TDI but was biased against diesels as a whole. Why? Because the TDi is nearly as quick, numbers wise and quicker in the real world than the 4 cylinder gas car. How do I know? I've posted this here before so, here I go again. A GLX owner decided to show me what his car could do. I was following and we slowed for pedestrians. First gear for the both of us. He guns it up a hill and I followed suit. ALMOST HIT HIM WHEN HE SHIFTED INTO SECOND GEAR! Second gear was much of the same. Winding up through second gear, he was trying very hard to see if there was a VR6 badge on my grill like his car had. I was never more than 6 feet from his bumper. The street ende before third gear. And I had my wife in my car and he was solo. Go figure. By the numbers, my diesel should not have been able to do that. Bad diesel, BAD!;-)

Comments:
David, you will greatly overstress your engine and drastically reduce engine life and reliability by doing this modification. Not to mention wasting probably a bunch of money fooling with a vehicle that has PLENTY of power to begin with!

Comments:
Attention to anyone owning a Volkswagen Tdi engined vehicle: I am in the process of importing to the United States a power box for the Tdi which will boost horsepower from 90 to 136...yes 136 H.P.!!! This is incredible. These boxes have been fully teste and built in Germany and England, and have been very well respected by the European Tdi performance enthusiasts. It is backed by a one year warranty. Best of all, this box can be used on virtually all td, tdi, or tds vehicles for sale. If you decide to ell your vehicle, you can take it with you. It is simply unbelieveable. If anyone has any questions about it, please feel free to email me. Also, I am going to import from the same company all sorts of performance products for Swedish, German, and Japan se cars that will give similar performance increases as the tdi. I hope you're as excited as I am!!!!

Comments:
Can someone please let me know what the FRAM oil filter number for the TDI is?

Comments:
I just received the December Auto-Motor-Und-Sport yesterday and they had an article in it about the newest VW Golf R-TDI. This car was supposed to be run in the June 24-hour race at Nuernurgring, but wasn't finished until September. Anyways, here are so e specs on it:

2.5l inline 5 cylinder
More than 245hp @ 4100 rpm
Over 500 Nm(369ft/lbs) torque between 2900 & 4100/rpm
1100 kg weight
Golf IV body
19" wheels
Unfortuantly, there was not mention of top speed or accelleration.:(

Fred

Comments:
Just one more posting about how I love the car! The comfort and the price of my 97 TDI are incredible. However, what has Volkswagon done to their prices for the US market? Just 18 months ago I paid $19,700 dollars for my loaded Passat. The only two op ions I didn't get were the leather and heated seats. This seems to be about the price of the new Jetta. You cant even get the Passat in the US with the TDI anymore. If you could, I would Imagine it would run close to $25,000 for the same options that I have on my 97'. I know that these models have been totally redesigned, but it seems that the "peoples" car isn't for all the people anymore. Infact you can buy an audi A4 for the same price as a VW Jetta GLX. A VW for the price of an AUDI? Just doesn' make sence!! I know the economy is booming in the US, but I am fearful that VW is outpricing the "niche" they once commanded. Just one more quote on the acceleration aspect of the TDI: "...The other engine option is VW's ultra-thrifty 1.9-liter four-c linder turbo-diesel -- recommended only for those with earth-orbit bladders and a total disdain for 0-to-60 times. Fuhgedaboudit." This quote doesn't follow the postings I have seen on this page buy some TDI owners. I must repeat myself at this point and say that I love my car. I love this website, infact it is my startup page for my webserver. Ho ever, the TDI performs adequetly 0-60 (I don't feel like I'm missing anything) but I would never race a gas powered car off the line. BUT I WOULD RACE THEM RIGHT PAST THE GAS PUMP!! Happy TDI'ing!!!! -Ian

Comments:
Just receive word from my wife that my car is now out of the shop. The service representive told my wife that the front axle needed to be replaced. I only had the car for 4 1/2 days with 500 miles on it. I hope this is not a sign of things to come. An one else have such a problem yet? I try and get more details when I pick up my car on Friday.

Comments:
Peter, I am amazed how people only look at horse power while disregarding torque. At the same time they don't notice the rpm. at which etiher is obtained. Most people do not rev their engines up to 5,000 on a regular basis. (Even if they are sports car o ners.) They still feel that doing so will shorten the engine life. At the same time they will look at a 90 Hp. TDI and think "A Honda Civic has more than that." Sure it does at 5,000 rpm. It also only has 125 lb.ft. of torque which is available at 3,50 rpm. I am not disputing that in an all out race the civic would win, but in normal everyday driving my TDI out performes these cars in that it delivers lively acceleration whithout beating the engine to death. I really don't care though because the proof is not in the "advertized" numbers. (My best friend is in advertising and the whole point is to make things look good on paper.) The proof is in the fact that my previous car had a 3.0 OHC V6 and I am not feeling at a loss with my TDI. The 2.3 gas Ford R nger Pick up that I drive for business however has a lot to be desired.

Comments:
Oh, almost forgot. Ric, remove the bra before washing your car and don't let a wet bra sit on your paint, it leads to your problem. It's called water damage.

Comments:
Ken, now you know how it feels to tell your story and have everybody tell you "no way your TDI could have beat that car, it'll do 0-60 in X.XX seconds while the TDI does it in..." Let them wonder. Keith and Ric, actually, blocking the radiator won't dam ge your car in the winter. I placed two sheets of Lexan across the grill between the headlights because it helps with warm-up and the car runs fine. Oh, BTW, it hasn't gotten any colder than the high 50's and it's gotten into the high 60's since doing t is and my mileage has gone up 1 or2 MPG. I'll remove them in the spring and put them back in the fall. It's a trucker's trick, and they block the entire radiator.

Comments:
VW4Boy, you might want to go to the library and look at the Car and Driver issue from August '98. They drive the New Beetle TDI. The gas version does 0-60 in 10.1 sec. and the TDI does it in 10.6 sec. They also do the quarter mile and the TDI is only o e tenth of a second and one mile / hour behind the gas model. There really is no reason to go with the gas version. At least not the 2.0. With the near double fuel efficency and greater longevity ( assuming you will keep the car for a long time and pile n miles. ) the only reason I can see for getting the 2.0 would be the noise level which I find to be nominal in the TDI. ( Turn the radio on!! ) Once you own it people will be amazed that they are in a diesel. Everyone who has either driven or driven i my car says "I can't believe this is a diesel!" Plus I think the sound gives the car a fun personality. God knows Detroit wouldn't make one.

Comments:
P.S. Why do you want to cover the grill? It is risky to do, because your car could overheat!

Comments:
Keith,I got my Jetta bra from J.C. Whitney for a reasonable price, and it fits perfectly. A word of caution: My Jetta is white, and after a year of use the paint yellowed somewhat underneath the bra. It may have happened because we have iron in our well water, and it accumulates under the bra every time I wash the car. Good luck!

Comments:
Has anyone found a quality car bra that will allow the grill to be covered in cold weather? Is VW's bra worth the money? I saw that the VW store on their site has the CD changer for 320.00 and they said that an adapter was still needed. Any other audio placed have a changer that will work for a better price?

Comments:
Some of you were looking for info on the 115 hp TDI. I have some scans (in German) of info on this at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9916/115tdi/.

Fred

Comments:
Ian, A new Beetle does 0-60 in 10.6 sec. Car and Driver 8/'98. This is obtained with a 4,500 rpm. red line. An Acura Integra I am assuming does 0-60 in 9 sec. at 6,500 rpm. to 7,000 rpm. red line. Also an Acura engine is gutless until about 4,000 rpm. I'm ot saying that in an all out drag race I would beat out the Integra, but in an agressive acceleration run up to highway speed my diesel is much more relaxed and I reach highway speed in third gear with an average max rpm of 3,750 while the Integra was sc eaming through its short gears which are designed that way to obtain power from its low torque engine. It relies on high rpm to deliver power. Sorry for the misunderstinding.

Comments:
Does anyone know when the LUPO TDI will be available in the US? I checked the German VW web page and the little car looked pretty cool.

Comments:
First of all thanks fred for your page, it's great. I'm thinking to wait until june to buy the new Golf IV with 115 hp. Please tell me your opinion. differences beetween golf with 110 hp and 115hp? shall do i buy the golf IV 110hp, or wait until june to buy the new disel engine with 115 hp Thanks very much To all tdi owners: have a great year!

Comments:
Hey guys, I agree that the TDI is a decent performer for an oil burner. But to say that an Acura Integra's "engine was screeming just to keep up with me" in a stock NB TDI just isn't real life. If you compare the performance specs. of the TDI to the Int gra they just don't match up. The TDI go's from 0-60 in just over 13 seconds. That may be fast for a diesel but it is nowhere near what a moderate performer like the base Integra can do. Lets compare apples to apples here. If you compare the accelerat on of a TDI to a Geo Metro I'd say we were on the same sheet of music (and the VW would be the clear winnwer). The quality, ride, comfort of a TDI will blow this car away with similar fuel economy. (see below) Performance Data for the Accura Integra 1.8L (base engine) Acceleration (0-60 mph): 7.9 sec. Braking Distance (60-0 mph): 142 ft. Roadholding Index: 0.82 Base Number of Cylinders: 4 Base Engine Size: 1.8 liters Horsepower: 140 hp @ 6300 rpm Torque: 124 lbs./ft. @ 5200 rpm Quotes on performance of the TDI taken from various sources: "Performance, while not outstanding, more than equalled that of many gasoline-powered cars. Acceleration from zero to 100 km/h took 13.7 seconds, while 80 to 120, using both 3rd and 4th gears took 11.7" "Last year Volkswagen introduced the TDI (turbo direct injection) dieselengine, a $940 option on the Jetta and Golf. Small diesels are popularin Europe because they deliver exceptional fuel economy and tireless durability,but their performance is ho-hum." "The manual shifter works well. But it has a fairly long throw and works with a light, long-throw clutch. The automatic is satisfactory, but saps a fair amount of power." "Off the starting line, the TDI isn’t a dragster but does offer adequate performance." "The bad news is the base 115-horse, 2.0-liter four is just too anemic in this size of car, especially if you opt for an automatic. Later in the '99 model year (late spring), the 90-horsepower TDI diesel (which makes 33 more foot-pounds of torque than the gasoline motor) will be available in GL and GLS versions. In any case, we'd suggest the VR6 and a five-speed (automatic only if you MUST) for the kind of all-around driveability and performance most people demand." Playing off of the famous Volkswagen ads of the '60s, one of the new ads cheerfully acknowledges the New Beetle is no hot rod: "0 to 60? Yes." I know I'm going to get slammed for posting such a message. However, everytime I read how a stock TDI blue away another car I just chuckle. I love my VW TDI but it is "no racecar". -Ian

Comments:
Looking at a 96 tdi with 70K miles. It was a trade in because th owner didn't change the timing belt. The head was replaced. Should I be concerned about the pistons? The head was replaced by the dealer under warranty. They want $11500 for this car.

Comments:
VW4Boy, I felt the same way when I test drove my first TDI. Infact when I took ownership of my Beetle I drove it very slow and and some what jerky when compared to how I drove my previous gas car. I think part of that was the stiffness of the new engine. It di n't seem to rev freely. Now with 9,000 miles on my TDI I love it. A few weeks ago I took off at a light which leads to a highway ramp directly ahead. There was an Accura Integra next to me. I could hear his engine screaming from inside my car just to eep up with me. I was shifting B4 4,000. I don't drive this way all the time but once in awhile it's fun to "blow it out." I am very happy with my engine. I think you just have to get used to the turbo lag combined with the fact that diesel's don't ha e the advantage of timing advance when accelerating. Once you learn to shift in a way that you are keeping the turbo spinning, ie don't delay between gears, You will be suprised by how much this engine has to offer. But please give it a long break in f rst.

Comments:
Hi TDI people! I would like to inform all of you that is now available in Germany the VW Passat TDI 115 HP (PDE, pump-injector system) and the incredible Passat 2.5 V6 TDI with 150 HP! I hope they will be available in America, for your pleasure...really g eat engines! Bye all, and have a nice TDI!

Comments:
Hello to all you lucky tdi owners. I am looking to get a VW tdi that has been in a wreck ie a repairable so if you crash one or know of one please let me know. I know of an TDI engine for sale and a repairable passat tdi but its on the east coast and i'm n the west , but dont let that stop you from telling me about one. I will consider it where ever it may be as long as its on this contenent.Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Email me

Comments:
Mike, GOLF TDI EPA is 42city/49hwy with manual trans. I've heard the Golf as more passenger room in the back seat than the Jetta. BTW.....I have decided 99.9% (as Michael Jordan said...nothing is final) to go TDI!!! Between the 2.0L and the TDI (my choices)...there is no reason to go 2.0L when the TDI is available. Now to wait for that GLS Sunroof package, black interior and the right paint color to show up....

Comments:
vw4boy...the TDI has a flat torque curve from 1900 to 3500 or so. That means you don't have to stir the gears all the time like you do with a gas 4 cylinder. Ya can roll around city corners in 3rd when a shift to 2nd would be required with a gas car, you an run rural twisties in 4th because 4th is good for 50 to 90 mph and on the interstate just plant it in 5th and pass.

Comments:
Would like to get some info on a comparison of space in the '99 Jetta vs.'99 Golf (4dr.) TDI. Saw a Golf at a dealer but couldn't get in, however it looked like there was quite a bit of room in the back. Also anybody know the EPA city/hwy figures for th Golf TDI? Also, anyone know where to get after market DSL fuel filters, hate to get gouged by VW and their incompetent staff... Many Thanks

Comments:
TO VW4BOY: The TDI revs and shifting are different, but after a while, you'll have problems going back to the operation of a gas car....TO SHAWN of CULPEPER: You're not alone in the in being alone with the VW 24 HR. road assisstance program. I, as well a many of my friends, found it almost useless. Poor marks for VW's continued support service. ALSO, Thanks for the NON-OIL stories...Most Interesting....Mike...out...

Comments:
TEST DROVE GOLF IV TDI. Thought I would share my impressions, please comment. Drove it twice (each time drove the 2.0 L gas before the TDi). First test drive of TDI...I keep thinking...gee, the TDI is okay...but the 2.0 was just fine also. So...why am I bothering with the TDI? It doesn't seem to be all that different from the gas engine in performance. And even though the 2.0L isn't the end all and be all; the TDI seems a little "vague" (as in am i in the right gear and what is the car doing?) and "noisier" than I expected. The second time I test drove the TDI, I payed a lot more attention to staying between 1800 and 3200 (or so?) RPMs. Also, I didn't shift for speed (acceleration), but actually shifted kinda slow, and pressed the accelerator instead of "down quickly" more ike I was firmly, but more slowly, applying pressure. The other thing I did was when shifting out of one gear, to shift into the next, I made sure to "pause" and let the tach go down to "idle" (1800 ish?) before shifting into the next gear. I guess I b sically took things more slowly and smoothly. When I did that, I started to get a better feel for the TDi. As if I wasn't pushing it or making it do "stuff" too fast. Does that make sense at all? (like the tortoise and the hare?? help! ) This second test drive the TDi felt more substantial...especially against the 2.0 liter. Still had two "problems". First, while crusing at highway speed, 60 mph at 1900 rpm in fifth...I wasn't sure the best way to accelerate. Just give it gas, or....shift to fourth and accelerate. I tried both..but didnt' get a good feel for either. I exp ct better acceleration between say 60 and 70. (those short bursty passing moves). Second...while going ..say....20 or 30, I noticed that if I kept my hand on the gear shift, that I felt a rhymic "pressure" on the stick. As if something was "out of balance" and each time a wheel, or part of the engine would complete a certain part of a cycle, the gear stick would vibrate. Any ideas?? I am leaning strongly towards the TDi. Just still feeling my way thru a different engine and way of driving???

Comments:
Shawn, Sometimes the smell of steam on rubber (belts?) is similar to that electronic smell. Just wondering if that was the smell, and the check engine light was a coincidence? Or some electrical connection got water between the contacts? (but no burning ?) let us know the outcome. Thanks.

Comments:
Does anyone have info on pinouts of the cd changer jack in the trunk... Would like to add my own aftermarket unit any info/experiences helpfull!

Comments:
Greetings All: Just had a nice day, so I decided to wash my car. After washing , I went for a little drive. After about 5 mins, the "Check Engine" light came. I pulled over and opened the hood. I could hear a ticking sound coming from the fuel filter area. I c uld also smell the characteristic scent of burning electronics. All other vital signs of the engine were ok. I called VW 24hr assistance. HA HA HA!!! The woman said if the idiot light isn't blinking, drive it to your nearest dealer for service Anyone have an idea of what malfunctioned??? Thanks, Shawn

Comments:
There is now a new link on the sidebar to VW/TDI links. I've put all of the ones I've had written down. Hope I didn't miss to many relivent ones. On another issues. My mail program just bit the dust today, so I've lost all your guys email. Yes I've be n really slow in responding, but I'm trying to catch up. If you wish, send it to me again and I'll try to answer. Your best bet is still to post here as there are many people here with way more knowledge than me.:)

Have a good day
Fred

Comments:
Thougt I would try one last time on this wonderful site before I go full bore in classifieds and having to deal with all those looky loos. I have a 1999 New Jetta GLS TDI w/alloys and sun roof on order and will be in by spring. I therefore have a mint 98 Jetta TDI with 12k miles,sun roof,tinted windows,black,black velour,absolute new condition for sale. Not that it means much but I pulled the Kelly Blue Book on both trade-in @$14,290 and high retail @$17,890. I am getting a special discount because I have a relative who is an excecutive at VWOA in Mich. and the deal is not applicable with trade-in. The first $14,000 takes this vehicle. If interested page me toll free at (888) 444-6827 or e-mail me from this site info. Regards, Leonard

Comments:
I have a Golf Variant TDI, for most of visitor to this site are American for you the Variant is just the Golf station wagon or for the British it is estate. Well my problem is very smiple, I realise that when my car does 30,000rpm and above there is a lot of black smoke being emitted. What is the cause and what can I do about about this? Help

Comments:
On changing oil: before my Jetta, I owned a GMC 3/4 ton van. I also still own a 96 Jeep Wrangler. Changing oil was not a problem - didn't even have to jack them up, just slid under them - plenty of clearance. On the occasion that they required jacking, I just got out the hydraulic bottle jack and went to town - plenty of places on the frame and/or suspension to lift by. I have yet to change the oil on my new Jetta - still within the free dealer service period, but fast approaching the end. What is the best way to get at the underneith of the car? Car ramps, jack stands? What is the best way of getting it up in the air? Is the drain plug towards the rear of the pan so that jacking up the front is ok?

Comments:
Mike and Ann, Were any of the Golf IV TDIs the GLS? (4 doors) And...did either have leather seats/heated seats or sunroofs or alloys? thanks!

Comments:
News Flash from Maine! Our local dealer (Morong in Brunswick) just got a white 99 Jetta TDI and 2 red 99 Golf TDI's. Test drove the Jetta today, nice car. (Mike said the stereo system is OK too.)

Comments:
Sorry to beat the dead horse of oil, but I found a great deal on oil that is equivalent to Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, and Mobil Delvac 1300. At Auto Zone, they have Coastal 15W-40 and at Discount Auto Parts, they have their own brand of diesl motor oil. At both places, they are $3.99 a gallon, and have the same ratings as the 3 aforementioned oils. That's $1.00 a quart! Cheaper that most all other oils! Also, what's the point of spending $10.00 for an oil test kit, when it is cheaper to just go ahea and change your oil???

Comments:
GREETINGS FELLOW TDI'ERS.AFTER READING ALL OF THE EMAILS I MUST CONFESS THAT I FIND THE COMMENTS NOT ONLY INTERESTING BUT REFRESHING AS WELL. I HAVE BEEN IN THE TRUCKING INDUSTRY FOR 23 YEARS. DIESEL ENGINES ARE BY FAR THE ONLY WAY TO POWER ANY LAND VEHIC E. MY 98 JETTA IS AT 30,000 MILES AFTER A YEAR AND IS ONLY IMPROVING WITH AGE. MY COMMENTS ARE THAT YOU ALLOW DIESELS TO COOL DOWN 3 MIN OF IDLE TIME AFTER BEING ON THE HIGHWAY AS THIS ALLOWS THE TURBO TO SLOW DOWN AND ALLOWS THE HEAT TO DISSIPATE. AS FAR AS OIL, I USED SHELL ROTTELA AND HAVE RECENTLY SWITCHED TO MOBIL 1 15W50. I HAVE INCREASED MY FUEL MILEAGE 1 TO 2 MPG. I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE. KEEP ON DRIVING THOSE DIESELS LONG AND HARD. THEY WERE DESIGNED FOR THAT PURPOSE. HAPPY MOTORING. DAVE

Comments:
I just wanted to thank Fred and everyone who shares this web site for all the great information. If there is another site with even 10% of the TDi info here, I haven't found it. I am very close to deciding to go TDi, and, I know without a doubt, if it wasn't for this site, (and people who have emailed me personally) I never would have considered one. So..thanks again.

Comments:
The analysis results of my 15,000 mile oil sample have come in. The contaminant numbers at 15,000 miles with the by-pass filter are within one part per million of the 5,000 mile sample without the by-pass filter. I'll send another sample when the oil has 5,000 miles on it. I might never have to drain the crankcase again. An 80 cent replacement by-pass filter element, one quart to replace the oil held in the element and 5 minutes time each 5,000 miles is the extent of oil maintenance now.

Comments:
Fred: I think it's time to change this web-site's name to the TDI OIL PAGE, or OILs-R-US. Just Kidding....Mike...Out..

Comments:
** Motor Oil ** I read many questions on this web site concerning motor oil. By change I found a very interesting link to a web site related to that topic. Please visit this address: >> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/engineoil_bible.html << Happy TDIing, Peter

Comments:
I've used Delvac 1 5W-40 after the free oil changes up to my last oil change. I ran out of Delvac 1 on my last oil change. In using Delvac 1, the engine is a lot more quiet than the Rotella (that I currently use) or the oil that the dealer put in there I used to change the filter every 5K and the oil every 15K. The only thing was that my oil level seem to go down at the rate of 1 qt per 1K miles. I think it was due to oil leak. Now that I am using Rotella, my oil level hasn't come down at all. (I' e also put a lot more miles on the engine) Its been in the engine for the last 4K miles. I am approaching 90K miles on the odometer. Is the loss of Delvac 1 oil caused by it being thinner than Rotella (5W-40 vs. 15W40)?

Comments:
Well, after 10 days of 0 deg F and below I can say that TDI starts and runs great compared to my last diesel, 1980 Mercedes 300D. That car was scarey whenever it got this cold. The TDI looks like a winner after 9000 miles

Comments:
Mobil Devac Users I have a Question. What is everyone's Oil Change Interval. I am using Delvac starting with my next oil change. How long betwwen changes? 5K, 7.5K, 10K,??? Let me know.

Comments:
This has probably been covered already at some point but, has anyone used Prolong in your Diesel? What are you results? I have a freind with a Rabbit Pickup Diesel that has 228,000 on the Original engine. My freind has been using Prolong for 4 years and s ears by it. Is it really any good or is it Snake Oil? I myself am suspiscous of any oil additive. How does it work do you just add it at oil change time? Can or should Prolong be used with Mobil Delvac?????

Comments:
Automobile magazine has just picked the VW New Beatle as "CAR OF THE YEAR". The same issue (Feb.99) also gave the 99 Passat the "BEST FAMILY SEDAN" award. That unseats Toyota Camry's long reign in this position. However; In still another article the Au omobile Magazine Editors placed the new 99 Jetta in the DISAPPOINTMENT catagory. All this is interesting because while there are appx. 150-160 production cars competing for rating positions in 14 catagories, VW (with it's tiny no-sport-ute fleet) capture 2 of them. VW is back alright, and in a BIG way....Mike...Out...

Comments:
THE TDI !!!!! THE BEst !!!!! Powerfull and Rulez !!!!!and ......... expensive :((

Comments:
According to the manual, the oil change interval of my TDI is 15 000 km (9375 miles). For "Non-TDI" diesels the interval is 7500 km. I think these numbers are common for all European countries. Happy TDI weekend Tin

Comments:
Hey, BUD, I think you mean check out your US manual... the US isn't NORTH AMERICA you know... there still are two other contries on this continent.

Comments:
D'nardo: Good move with the Hakka's. I also ditched the Goodyear tires in favor of Hakka 1's. The Jetta and wife's Windstar are so equipped. Those tires make a BIG difference driving in snow, slush, and icy conditions (specially the Windstar as it wei hs 3950 pounds!). As far as mileage, I too get 39 to 42 mpg hauling really fast on I-94 between Minneapolis and Elk Mound, WI going between 75 and 85 mph, cops permitting. FUEL: well, I use the TEXACO station just 1 mile away from your home: Take Hen epin to downtown, right on Washington, left on 1st Ave, right on 5th Street, over the bridge next to the MTCO bus depot. Voila! Texaco's finest Diesel fuel at $1.03/gallon-how sweet and cheap it is!!! (has been $0-.99 a couple of times). Good Luck.

Comments:
Scott, check your NORTH AMERICAN manual. It is in miles NOT Kilometers!

Comments:
The oil change stuff has been beat to death, but I disagree with the 10,000 mi recommendation. As I understand European manuels state 10,000 Kilo. which I also understand comes to about 7,500 mi.

Comments:
Zach: 7,000 miles on synthetic oil? The interval for standard oil is 10,000 miles. I would run it to 15,000 miles and check it then.

Comments:
I couldn't find Delvac 1 at any stores, so I went the distributer route. It only comes in gallons, and runs around $19 a gallon. Some distributers only sell it by the 4 gallon case. So, far the oil has been fantastic for me. One of only a few true syn hetics that holds all of the diesel ratings. I am going to run it around 7000 miles and check the sediment when I change it...

Comments:
There is a local distributor of Mobil lubricants where I live. The Mobil Web site has additional locations listed. Truck stops might have it

Comments:
Russ David: Excellent idea! Where did you find Mobil Delvac 1?

Comments:
Any comments on using Mobil DelVac 1300 oil in a 1998 New Beetle TDI. I am thinking about putting it in at the 10,000 mile mark. What do you think?

Comments:
Re: gas vs. diesel prices- diesel has always been somewhere between the cost of mid-grade and premium gas. When I got my first diesel in 1984, I was paying $1.15 for diesel. I now am paying $1.01. What a bargain!

Comments:
Question... Traditionally in the States, diesel fuel is less than regular (low grade) gasoline. This past year, gas prices have dropped, but diesel prices haven't. At least where I am (MD, USA), diesel costs the same as medium grade gas ($1.20). I thought diesel c st less because it is less refined. So..why didn't diesel prices follow the drop of gas prices? thanks.

Comments:
BOB:IF YOU LOOK IN THE SECTION WHAT`S MY CAR WORTH? IN KELLEY BLUE BOOK, THERE YOU FIND THE TRADE IN VALUE WHICH IS $13,015 THAT IS THE VALUE THAT YOU GET FROM A DEALER IF YOU TRADE IT FOR A NEW ONE; BUT IT DOESEN`T MEAN THAT THIS IS THE VALUE OF YOUR CAR THEN... IF YOU GO AT THE SECTION GOING SHOPPING?IN KELLEY BB THERE YOU FIND THE RETAIL VALUE OF THE CAR. IN THIS PARTICULAR CASE THE RETAIL VALUE IS $17,040 IN EXCELLENT CONDITIONS. SO DON`T GET CONFUSE WITH THE TRADE IN VALUE AND THE RETAIL VALUE. IF A DEALER TAKES THIS CAR AS A TRADE IN THEY PAY 13,015 BUT THE GOING TO SELL IT SOMEWHERE AROUND THE RETAIL VALUE. SO I THIS CASE $14,300 FOR A CAR IN EXCELLENT CONDITIONS IS A VERY GOOD DEAL!!!!

Comments:
Nice simple explanation of how a diesel engine works, with animation. www.howstuffworks.com/diesel.htm

Comments:
Only 160K miles so far. Still burns less than 1/2 quart motor oil between changes. (Every 4K) I've used mostly store brand oils (Wal-Mart or Auto Zone at $.89 per quart with top quality filter) I alway check API rating carefully on the 15W-40 oil used. Original pressure plate failed at 60K. Rear wheel bearings and break shoes changed at 158K. I'm on third timing belt. One belt broke with teenage son driving (all new valves but no holed pistons). Replaced struts twice/coil springs once (many miles on u paved roads). Alternator brushes and slip rings soldered at 115K. New starter at 100K. New front axles at 95K. Starts hard below 20 deg. F.. Time for block heater. I'll give it away at 200K.

Comments:
Thanks for the feedback on the TDI "heater issue". So it really DOES have an auxiliary electric heater. Neat! I conclude that the TDI heat output is close, if not equal to gasoline power under normal conditions. Any contrary opinions here? Obtaining suf icient heat when sitting for two hours in an idling TDI when it's zero outside might be a different story though, but even then, the aux. heat should kick in to help some. The point is, nobody is going freeze in a warmed up TDI. As a side note, I read th t Consumer Reports had difficulty getting sufficient heat from their prechamber diesel Rabbit back in '79. Considering that the TDI does without prechambers (which liberate lots of heat to the coolant), it would seem that Volks has done a decent job. Also, please continue with any new insights on cold weather starting. Just how "low" a temperature can you start this little beast without a block heater/garage? Anyone brave enough to set a new record? Your #3 connecting rod will not end up in the snow. Trust me :) [not]

Comments:
Regarding heat in winter with the TDI. My Beetle heats up just as fast as my old car. I had a '93 Dodge with a V6 and it usually heated up at a certain street in my way to work. My Beetle heats up at nearly the same street. I assume VW puts a larger heat r core on the diesel engine to deliver the necessary BTU's. It's true that diesels don't run as hot as gas but there is more than enough heat in diesels to provide heat for a person. After all they do require a radiator and coolant. We have had sub zero F. days here this year and the heater has always kept up.It's possible that the engine thermostat doesn't open and all the engine heat is heating the passenger compartment, but regardless there is plenty of heat.

Comments:
HEY JOSE, THE KELLY BLUE BOOK VALUE IS $13,015, AND THAT IS ONLY IF IT IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION.

Comments:
The stock Goodyear GA tires on my 98 Jetta ARE DANGEROUS. It's hard to think a company like Goodyear would produce them. The tires are good for nothing in rain or snow. Please inform; what's a good all-round/all-weather tire for my Jetta?....Thanks.... ike....Out...

Comments:
So far my mileage has stayed abut 50mpg this winter with the use of the Amsoil synthetic oil and diesel fuel modifier. I had gotten as high as 55.39 MPG. I have put almost 32K on the car with only a fuel shut off valve going bad. This is the 15th car I h ve owned and definately the best. On another note I need help with my business. If anybody would like to help me processing E-mail or know anybody that would, please e-mail me and I will send the details. The pay averages to around $12-$15 per hour or more! You obviously need a computer and internet access. Happy Dieseling!

Comments:
So far my mileage has stayed abut 50mpg this winter with the use of the Amsoil synthetic oil and diesel fuel modifier. I had gotten as high as 55.39 MPG. I have put almost 32K on the car with only a fuel shut off valve going bad. This is the 15th car I h ve owned and definately the best. On another note I need help with my business. If anybody would like to help me processing E-mail or know anybody that would, please e-mail me and I will send the details. The pay averages to around $12-$15 per hour or more! You obviously need a computer and internet access. Happy Dieseling!

Comments:
BOB: it`s manual, VW don`t make tdi`s automatic My E-Mail Pepo4@aol.com

Comments:
HEY, JOSE FROM ORLANDO: MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC? PLEASE LEAVE YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS THIS TIME. THANKS.

Comments:
Re: fuel priming My old diesel used to have a rubber-bulb which you were meant to squeeze to prime the fuel circuit. Who said 90s motoring is no longer an adventure? With the TDi you have little choice but to keep cranking with the ignition key - running dry is no tragedy but best avoided. On the Lupo there is competition in the wings. Ford has a Ka (a model the same size as the Lupo) with a 1.3, 3 cylinder "TDi". The power/torque figures are similiar, I think power peak is at 4500rpm, a highish figure which maybe makes sense for a small diesel. Also Nissan are rumoured to have a 1.0 litre diesel with 80bhp.

Comments:
The auxiliary heaters for the coolant do exist. They are called "spark plugs for coolant" in the Bentley manual. They are three small heating elements installed in the coolant outlet from the head that leads to the heater core. They are thermostatically c ntrolled by the ECM and mine go off once the coolant temperature gauge reads about 110F. The 50 amp fuse (they draw 15 amps each at 14.5 volts) and the relay on my 96 Pasat is attached to the top of the firewall just a bit towards the left of center. Thes heaters will add about 650 watts of heat while they are on. Every little bit helps.

Comments:
FOR SALE--FOR SALE--FOR SALE--FOR SALE--FOR SALE FLORIDA---FLORIDA---FLORIDA---FLORIDA---FLORIDA--- PASSAT TDI 96': 57,000 miles Green/ext Beige/int. SUPER CLEAN!! no paint job, never crash. Sun roof, 6 disc CD Changer, new Yokohamas. All books and records. $14,300 OBO Let`s Talk!! (407)353-7676 I already order a 99' Jetta tdi. Jose Vera

Comments:
I've heard you don't want to run one of these TDI's out of fuel...major problem getting the fuel thru the injectors again. Is this Correct? What kind of oil/filters are you guys using? I just bought a used '98 TDI and love it. With temps in the teens-F, heater worked just fine for me,even with a window slightly opened.

Comments:
Hey Barry, Where do I look for the leakage? To date, no problems (I check the oil level periodically). It sounds like checking it at the source is a better idea though. Thanks!

Comments:
You can't imagine my relief when I easily found a page dedicated to the TDi engine. In Miami it is not as popular as I think it should be(30 gasoline engines for every 2 TDi's. The loads of information, specs & accessories, were well beyond what I expe ted to find. Keep up the good work, millions are counting on you fred.

Comments:
CORRECTION: Yesterday I incorrectly quoted a price for the new 78MPG VW TDI LUPO to be $11K. That's what the base(gas)car costs. The Diesel will price at appx. $16K. Still, that's about 1/2 of what the 68MPG Jap/Toyota Hybrid costs. With it's 9.2 gall n tank you will still have a range of about 700 miles. You could drive from New York to Los Angeles for appx. $32 and stop for fuel only 3 times. It's good to know that automotive technology is capable of delivering that option. You never know when oil/f el could get scarce again. For now there seems to be plenty of fuel, but we all know it won't last for long. Happy TDI'ing...Mike...Out..

Comments:
D'NARDO: THE WEATHER YOU DESCRIBED IS WHY I LIVE IN WARM AND SUNNY FLORIDA!!!

Comments:
Re Winter Mileage. D'Nardo, Mileage dropping from 42 to 35 is reasonable, especially if you drive hard. My 88 Golf (gas) gets 25 mpg in the city during summer and the last tank was 19.5...the worst ever. The 19.5 was due to arctic air and constant wheelspin. In other words he motor never got fully warmed up and I was having a great time playing Rally Driver!