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Jim Bob, don't take Lucifer seriously. If he were old enough to drink beer he'd know that you great beer is available in any country. What choice of best oil/fuel additive/chip or whatever is best? Lighten up guys! It looks to me that there are so many onflicting opinions here that just about any of the listed products will work fine. As for my email address Jon Bartlett I'll politely decline the opportunity for you to flame me except in public. Frankly, Jim Bob recognized that we need more humor on the site and I applaud him.

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Hello there nice site. I was told that in canada you can get a A3 jetta as a 2 door is this correct?...I would buy a A3 tdi jetta if it was a 2 door. Same with the new A4 golf hopefully VWoA doesnt cheap out and just give the tdi base model interior etc!! and hopefully a 2 door!!...any world on any of my ?'s thanks Deo \x/ POWER!!, keep sniffing that vw diesel dust!

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Any information/TSBs on 'weak clutch return springs' would be helpful. After lots of stop-start driving, I noticed the clutch travel dropped suddenly, it only released fully when I put my foot under the peddle. Now it releases fully (bar approx 1cm free play), though it feels as though the biting point has lost some definition. There's vibration on engagement, but that's always been there since new, and doesn't bother me. Any advice on this fault, and if any damage/what symptoms is likely much appreciated. P.S. The car has 4800miles.

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Trying to get the Golf one wants has been difficult. I hope its as good as everyone says. Any leads to where I can chip it safely to 110bph Where can I get a sensible priced roof spoiler in Europe? Thanks enjoyed the page Ng

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nice page

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My car has an intermittent problem in that it mis- fires. Usually starts at higher speeds but once starts, occurs at all speeds/gears. Problem started when Mechanic changed filter. He thinks cause is air in the system but cannot find out how it's getting in and why intermittent. Anybody any ideas please?

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Anybody out there with a 96-97 Passat TDI 4 dr/wagon that has had a trailer hitch installed? My mechanic says a type II will cost only @ $170. and will have a 200lb. tongue capacity and a 2,000 lb. towing capacity. I would never push those limits, but I as just curious to see if anyone else had ever utilized a hitch with the TDI. Appreciate any info.

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CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THE BEST OIL FOR THIS KIND OF ENGINE ??? Note: I´ve a Racing drive !!

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Does anyone have anyone have experience and/or suggestions and/or comments about using ROYAL PURPLE 15W-40 synthetic oil in our TDI's? It has a CF and CF-4 rating, and is supposed to reduce friction and "significantly" increase fuel economy.

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TO KAITLIN: SOMETIMES SOLUTIONS TO A PRESSING PROBLEM IS ONLY A CASE OF BEER AWAY (OR SO YOU THINK) ALL THIS TALK ABOUT TIMING BELTS HAS REMINDED ME ABOUT THE UNFORTUNATE EPISODE 2 MONTHS AGO WHEN MY BELT SHREDDED AT ABOUT 33000 KMS. WAS NOT PRETTY!!!! DEALER FIXXED IT UP UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE COST INCLUSIVE WAS NEAR 2 GRAND. NEEDED A NEW HEAD 'CAUSE THE VALVES WERE WACKED GOOD BELTS ARE CHEAP CHEAP

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Some other oil filters that will fit the TDI engine (check to see if they have the rubber anti-drainback valve and are specified for that application in a filter guide before buying!) Mobil 1: M1-301, AC PF-2, FRAM "ToughGard" PH8A , Amsoil SDF-15, Hastings LF-115

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I love my Jetta, it's nearing the magic 350 k km (217 k miles) mark that I dreamed about when I bought it in 1990. I still routinely get 45 mpUSgallon and aside from brakes, tires, struts and 1 fuel injector pump, everything has been swell. I nearly bough a second - new this time Passat last year, but I think I'll try to hold out for the Bora/Jetta TDI. Change the oil religiously - use VW or MANN oil filters, Change fuel filter regularly, timing belts every year or so and enjoy a fine economical ride. jim

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Timing belt changes at recommended intervals are crucial to keeping your engine. I had a Rabbit whose timing belt broke; the valves came down at the same time the pistons came up! That equals broken valves. We were able to rebuild the engine but I won' make that mistake again.

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to Sparky...the ECU is located under plastic rain gutter (under the hood by the wipers) on the passenger side. You can remove it with a socket wrench, but you need a #15 torx to open it.

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I've been researching timing belt prices. All the dealers are about the same - $290 in labor, $45 for belt, $38 for tensioner. Local VW motor head said he'd do it for a little less. A Canadian emailed me saying the most he's paid for a timing belt chan e is about $200 US. Go figure. Anyone have any additional info?

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Where is the computer module on the 98 Jettas?

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Oil filters for '96-97 Passat TDI's can be purchased at AutoZone for @ $4. Deutsch D-534. I've used them for all 57K on my '96 Passat wagon and they have worked well. Anyone know the cost for replacing the timing belt on my 96 wagon? All this talk about busted belts is beginning to get me nervous. Appreciate the help.

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All the 3 covers on your engine are for noise abatement. I took my top cover off so I can view my engine. My son has a 1998 Jetta "wolfsburg" gasoline powered, and it has none of the 3 covers. For the guy with the high time timing belt. Get it changed. I was talking to a aircraft part salesman the other day. Him and his wife were in a 1997 Passat TDI. His company car was a Jetta diesel with over 366,000 miles on it. He said he just changes oil and replaces the timing belt every 60,000 - 70,000 miles and t at he has had no problems. Said that he would not drive nothing else. See YALL. J. Pope

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No need to spend $9.95 for an oil filter. You can get a Purolator PureONE fliter for the TDI for $4.95. Regarding the question about fuel filter change at 20K at the dealer: Yes, they did change it. I scratched my initials in the old filter, just to ma e sure.

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To Jerry in Americus. That's a good idea about removing the pan cover and it is quite easy, however it isn't necessary if you can keep the oil out in the first place. This may not be possible do to the cramped area you have to work in. Does anybody kno what the purpose of the oil pan cover is? My only VW dealer in town charges $14.75 for the "E" filter. I can only assume that this filter has some differences related to the TDI engine. Possibly a different check valve. The smaller size might be the reason that I can get my filter wrench aroun it from the bottom, which I can't do on my 90 Jetta diesel. Regarding oil filters: Timmons VW in Long Beach, CA. sells them for $9.95. These are O.E. filters & they are the "E" type. Timmons also gives free UPS shipping for all orders over $75. Here is the phone # for Timmons VW...(800)-266-3247.

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Further comments on engine oil: "CG-4 was developed for oils used in 1994 and later, low-emission, high-speed, four-stroke cycle diesel engines. It is also typically used for diesel engines using low-sulfur fuel. Newer engines that are used on-highway or off-highway applications may c ll for CG-4 qualitey oils. One of the main advances in CG-4 versus previous quality levels is the ability of the oil to handle high levels of soot that is generated by some of the these low-emission engines." This excerpt is from the Mobil Oil web page. It seems to indicate that a CG-4 rating would be important for a TDI engine (low-sulfur fuel, high speed, low emission design).

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Jesse, do it. It'll cost more if that belt lets go. The diesels with their higher compression engines should put more strain on those belts and with 19:1 compression, there's no doubt that major engine damage will result from the belt letting go. Anyon price a TDi long block out there?

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I'd be glad to respond to any technical questions TDI owners have about synthetic lubes, as long as you remember that free advice is worth what you pay for it ....

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To Ken from Austin; The next time you change your oil, it is very easy to remove the oil pan cover. It is held on with only one bolt and a clip. It takes about 1 minute to remove it and will save you 10 minutes in clean-up time. How much did Volkswagen harge you for a 068 115 561E oil filter which is made by Purflux of France. My dealer only stocks the larger 068 115 561D which is made by ????? but they only cost $8.00 each. The copper drain plug gasket VW P/N N-013-849-2 only cost $0.30 , so get a poc et full next time you are at your dealer and that will be just one less thing to worry about. See YALL, J. Pope

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I bought a used 96 TDI wagon last month with 75,000 miles. We only paid $13K, but I knew the maintanance was spotty and the car needed about a weeks worth of cleaning (which it got). I have just found out from the dealer that the PO did not have any 60K service except for a transmission repair made under warrantee. So now, with 79K miles, I'm faced with a $600 plus bill for a new timing belt and major service. Both the dealer and my mechanic said I'm playing Russian Roulette with the belt. Has anyone entured well above the 60K mark on the timing belt? Should I drive the car straight to the mechanic?

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My new 98 Jetta (as many of you know) comes with the first 24k/2Yr. maintenance free. The TDI manual calls for a fuel filter change at 20K miles. Did anyone out there have their fuel filter changed free at 20K miles?...Thanks...Mike...Out...

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I just changed my oil for the first time. I had 2600 miles on the factory oil. I think it was easier to get at this oil filter versus the one in my 90 Jetta diesel. This may be due to the size of the TDI filter. Some things to pay attention to when ch nging oil: You want to put the front of the car on jack stands. Un-screw the three clips on the pan and remove the four bolts that hold the pan up in the back. Remove the pan. I had trouble gettig it off due to the PS hose clamp interfering with the pan. I have ow rotated the clamp so I will not have any trouble the next time. The next important thing to make sure you have rags stuffed around the filter before removing it. There is a lot of oil that comes out around the filter and the oil will run down into th oil pan cover if your not careful. It may be appropriate to place a tempory foil shield to deflect the oil away from the engine. I would suggest purchaseing a strap type oil filter tool that works with a 1/2 drive and a ratchet to remove the filter. B fore removing the filter rotate the radiator hose clamp to permit the filter to come out easier. Use a VW filter 068-115-561-E or equivilant and fill the filter about 2/3 full to reduce the fill time at start up. I used 4.4 quarts of 15W40 Castrol CG-4 oil for HD diesels. The next thing I noticed was that the PS hose was rubbing on the bottom pan. I would recommend adding some teflon tape to the bottom cover where the PS hose is rubbing to protect the hose from wearing through. Any questions send me an E-mail. Mileage around town has been running about 41mpg. Happy TDIinnnnng!!!

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There are a few of us that do not intend to drive disposable cars, I'm one. Mileage is accruing on the Passat at the rate of 49,000 miles per year. I fully intend to keep it for 8 to 10 years. This is now my 16th car, Of the other 15, my first 5 failed to get to 100,000 miles. Those were junk when I bought them, they were junk when they were towed away. Nine of the others were sold in good running condition each with in excess of 100,000 miles, some over 200,000. One was totalled. Oil quality, and maintena ce in general is important to me, I need to keep this one running until the V6 TDi Passat is brought to the states. (Looong wait). Please list your e-mail address when you add comments. That way replies can be sent to you directly and won't have to take up space here. Jon Bartlett

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Bravo Jim Bob's idea of using the sail to improve mileage. Jim Bob: do you reef when you're going really fast? Now for you lube-heads, does is really matter which synthetic or mineral oil you use? Really now. How many of you boys are going to hang onto th car long enough (or keep from crashing your "chipped" unit) to see the difference? Cheers, Kaitlin

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To Ted Kublin: What is your opinion of the diesel specific version of AMSOIL oil?

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When are the 99 NB TDI's going to be available in the US ??? Thanks for any info... Bill...

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Mr. Brestlin, First of all it's "abusive", not "abbusive". Please check the dictionary if you feel you must. Second of all, I had a legitmate question, did someone appoint you to be the website monitor?

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To whom it may concern, I work as a propulsion engineer (specializing in advanced materials) and also sell synlubes on the side. The VW diesels (even the turbo-charged ones) are considered "light duty" diesels - it is not absolutely necessary to use a CH-4/CG-4, HD diesel oil i them. This is particularly true since the EPA mandated reduction in the sulphur content of pump diesel fuel back in the fall of 1994 (to not more than .5%). IMHO, you would be much better off using a 100% synthetic engine oil (such as Mobil 1) that is r ted SJ/CF than a petroleum based diesel oil in these motors. My second choice would be a synthetic blend diesel oil (Castrol now makes one that is widely available). You can also use the Valvoline Durablend (also rated SJ/CF). Oils with the CG-4/SJ rati g are intended for heavy duty (N/A and turbocharged) diesels and off-road diesels using high sulphur fuels - these new VW engines burn very cleanly. ANY of the above suggested oils will do an excellent job of suspending/dispersing soot and neutralizing s lphuric acid in the oil. People with technical questions can call me in the evening @ (256) 882-0768 (just free advice - NO sales pitch)

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Dear Mr. Rich; I,m the Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic that you are looking for. I'm a Aviation Powerplant instructor at the best aviation mechanic school in the world (see "visit me" located above, for pertinent details ). What is your beef??? You are ow using a diesel engine oil in a diesel engine. This oil is formulated to handle the soot and acids that diesel engines make, far in excess, than a gasoline engine makes. Don't worry it will not hurt your engine. I've been using Shell and AeroShell produ ts for over 20 years and never have had a problem. Aeroshell is the number 1 supplier of aviation oil and aviation greases in the world. They have been making full-synthetic jet engine oils since late 1940's. I wonder why they don't make any full-syntheti diesel engine oil???? NEW FULL-SYNTHETIC DIESEL OIL NEWS: A diesel engine manufacturer has now given their blessing to a full-synthetic engine oil. CATERPILLAR after years of testing, has now approved a full-synthetic engine oil. It is approved for us in Caterpillar powered on-highway trucks, earthmoving, commercial, and marine diesel engines. They market it as Cat DEO 5W40 and it's now available at all caterpillar dealers. Through the grape vine this oil is really Mobil Delvac 1 in a Caterpillar con ainer with no additional additives added by CAT. Now hopefully the Lubrication engineers have figured out away to keep the top ring and piston crown land clean of deposits. Mr. Rich: What kind of oil was your dealer servicing your car with? Also I've never seen 15W30 Rotella T. Down South here, we use 15W40 Rotella T. J.Pope

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Just got a scan of the specs of a 115 HP TDI. Passat Wagon from Aston (THE SEAT IBIZA TDI 90 Hp DRIVER).

It is located here. Be warned however, the scan is 885x1003 and 251k,as well as being in German. I'm sure you can figure out the main things though.

enjoy...

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I JUST WANTED TO TELL RICH THAT I USE ROTELLA ALSO. I'VE FOUND A WAY TO RECOUP THAT LOST MILEAGE. I OPEN MY SUNROOF AND FIT A SAIL - (NOT TOO LARGE - YOU WOULD'NT WANT TO STAND OUT) ALSO HELPFUL IS IF YOU PICK A REALLY WINDY DAY AND DRIVE IN THE SAME DIR CTION. JUST A THOUGHT - DID YOU HAVE A 56 MPH HEADWIND? THAT MIGHT EXPLAIN THINGS.

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Dear Rich: Please get a LIFE Anyone who cries as loud as you over a 3MPG loss of economy does not belong on this thread!! Everything offered here is in good faith and with the best wishesof every contributor. Be happy we have this medium and please learn o shut your abbusive mouth!!!

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I need to talk to the guy (he's an airframe mechanic) that suggested RotellaT oil. (You remember the BIG oil debate that went on a few weeks ago). Anyway I went right out and bought 5 qts of RotellaT 15W30 and a new filter and did an oil change. Prior o this I'd been having the dealer do oil changes. I don't know what the dealer was putting in but I was averaging 51mpg. Since I've been using RotellaT I've gone two tanks and gotten 47 and 48 mpg! I'm not happy. Could this decrease in fuel economy be attributable to the fact that RotellaT is designed to keep the soot in suspension as opposed to other non-diesel approved oils that are designed to reduce friction? I've been driving diesels since VW diesels since '78 and I've never seen such a noticeabl non-season related drop in fuel mileage. And yes, I keep all my tires inflated to 33 or 34 psi COLD. Please respond.

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Does anyone know what is involved in converting our 90 hp TDI to a 110 hp model? I read that the tuned intake was the difference but is it as easy as bolting it on and changing the ecu? Any info would be appreciated.

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I had a most interesting conversation with a gentleman on a flight from El Paso to Chicago this evening. He is working with the new A4 Jetta introduction. He was in one of the seven groups traveling around the US and Canada to familiarize the dealers with the new model and to offer tips for closing deals on them. Now he wasn’t technically involved in the “show” as he called it, he was hired for his expertise in show production, some one else in the group would answer the technical questions regarding the car. Steve did however pick up some tidbits concerning the car and it’s introduction, Most interesting was that although it will be initially offered with the 2.0 litre engine (transverse mounted) in the GL and GLS trim, and with the VR6 engine in the GLX, he did say that the TDI will be introduced to the North American market some time soon. Now, I’m sure that we have all learned by now that when VW says soon, that their time scale tends to rival plate techtonics. Aren’t we still waiting for the Golf (A3) TDI, published as “available soon” back in 96? But at least this confirmation that the A4 Jetta will sometime join the A4 Beetle with TDI power holds some hope for those desiring frugality and four doors. He did not have any brochures or other hand outs as they were on the transporter taking the cars to the next venue. He did show me a travel itinerary when I asked when a team would be in the New England area. One team will be traversing upstate NY the week of the 26th to the 30th, then into MA for the 2nd to the 9th. Another team will be in CT and RI from the 26th to 30th, and remaining in CT from the 2nd through 6th. Contact your local dealer to find if they are on this tour and the dates. His schedule of other teams did not have specific dealers names or dates. The dealers are not supposed to advertise the fact that the new Jettas are coming in advance of the official release date of Nov.11, and the show personnel are requested to pack up and leave if members of the press are present during these pre-introduction showing. The cars are not allowed to be driven by the dealers or their staff as none of the show cars ( two GLS and one GLX, each with automatic transmissions, in Steve’s group) are not certified for US usage. The introduction presentation is scheduled for one two hour show at each dealer and is presently “performed” two to three times per day. Later “shows” will be on the weekends also to permit the show teams to have the (US) Thanksgiving week off. The shows will also be coming to Canada. He mentioned that the show has been interesting with some unusual occurences. The dealership in Amarillo -closed- during the demonstration, customers were ignored, service scheduled during the show time was not performed and was rescheduled for another day, phones were left off the hook or left ringing. For some reason unknown to Steve, the president of VWoA was flown in to some small dealer in The Middle of Nowhere, Texas to pay his respects. VW is spending a fair amount on the Jetta intro in the States. Apparently they want to keep this new body style selling as well by getting the dealers excited about the changes and letting that excitement transfer to the potential purchasers. If you are considering the A4 Jetta and want to see one in person before the formal introduction, spectating at one of these shows may be a way to go. Then decide if it is worth waiting for the TDI engine. Jon Bartlett

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Notice to others. With 13,300 miles the deceleration valve decided to retire. Service said there are probably no parts in the U.S. You might want to ask your dealer if the valve can be inspected from time to time. Other than that I couldn't be more ha py with the car. Oh, while I was waiting for a rental I asked the VW mechanic if he had heard of Wetterauer, he had and I asked him if he could tell if the chip had been removed. He said that as soon as the chip is removed a code is erased on the comput r. So, ultimately the chip swapping for service/warranty reasons will not work (for anyone who thought of doing it). Happy TDIing. Ben

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The 115 HP TDI.will be available shortly in the Passat in Germany. They plan to also incorporate it into the German Golf & Bora. Plans for North Americia... a right:(. We haven't even gotten the b>110 HP TDI. ...

Fred

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Fred, or anyone else Will the US market get the 115Hp TDI ?? I really havn't read anything anywhere to indicate that we might see that engine. Does anyone know??

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Comments to some entries I have read. The block heater can be mounted in the far left freeze plug instead of the far right freeze plug which is behind the turbo. I took my car to the dealer to install it because I could get to the plug behind the turbo. He called VWOA and they ok'd this location. It is much easier to get to in the far left location. I am using AMSOIL 15w-40 synthetic diesel oil and 7,500 mile between changes. When I changed from Shell Rotella T oil to the AMSOIL I noticed that the co d start lifter noise I was hearing went away. I am also using the AMSOIL oil filter and foam/oil air filter. The engine seems to breath easier and has more pull on the Blue Ridge mountains here. I average 44 MPG and I drive it hard. It is a great car. I changed over to the G 12 antifreeze and did all of the 60K maintenance work inluding the timing belt. I had to take it to the dealer to set the timing by computer as that is only way to tweak the timing.

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MILEAGE UPDATE AT 12,000 MILES.....City--41MPG, Combined--45MPG, Hwy@60 mph--49MPG, Hwy@75 mph--47MPG.....Mike Out...

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SUBJECT:GOLF A2 and TDI Hello to everybody! I've been following this site not for some while, and now that I have possibility to use the WEB at work, I can check this site more regularly! :-) Anyhow I have NEVER had an TDI but have been following and reading all I can get my hands on since I started finding out about the TDI engine (some time in '91-'92 when it cam in the Audi) I have owned 6 VW's and 2 diesels, unfortunatly only plain simlple 1,6D's. Ok to the facts! I have with great interest followed the talks about TDI and Golf II even GOlf I. This much I know it is possible to swap a TDI into an A2 chassis because it has been done in Germany, there is an article of such a car in the german magazin TUNING. It was performed on a TD Golf A2. If anyone is interested in the pictures (not much, just a picture of the car and another picture with the hood open) I might be able to get it scanned. The price for the conversion was something like $1500 (yes U D) excluding parts! Now I would like to hear all comments or replies since I have been seriously considering such a swap into my syncro! That is I would need to use my original transmission (maybe add a 6th gear or change the ratios...). Thanx for the word! Cullen K. Holm

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looking for the flat rate time for the 60000 mile timing belt change .has any one had the Dealer do it .i used to change my own on the early Rabbit but now don,t have the tools also any price on installing a bloch=k heater would be of help Jerry

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Found a pic of the hp & torque curve of the new 115 HP TDI.

It is comparison to the Mercedes CDI (Common Rail Direct Injection). The image is available here. Sorry about the bad scan, but I had some problems and didn't quite have time to redo the scan. I'll post a better one shortly.

Fred

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Post on the New Beetle newsgroup, someone stated that removing the throttle peddle stop will give you more power. Has anyone tried this? It makes sense if the varaiable resistor is not getting full stroke. Is there an internal stop? I know the heui thrott e control has a stop for the Cat engines. Should I try it? Thanks Bob

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does anyone know where to put the block heater on the new jettas?is it behind the turbo?there looks to be 4 soft plugs ond im not sure witch one it is any ideas?.....

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Yes, Bob, it's the lowly Canadian dollar that gives me that number. I used a conversion factor of 1.45 to calculate the cost per litre in Canadian dollars, since that is what makes sense to me. This is the rate I paid to purchase my US currency, so this is what it costs me. It used to be a real bargain a few years ago to fill up in the States, but not any more. Coupled with the fact that diesel in Michigan costs more than regular gasoline,(which is the opposite of Ontario) it's now cheaper for me to f ll up in Canada.

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William, I think you probably guessed correctly why you've had the good fortune of getting the Golf-IV TDI before us. We in America simply enjoy extremely inexpensive oil pricess, and since our economy is consumer-driven, well, what else is there to say. In America, we have the RIGHT to be stupid! As for the abusive responses you have recieved... Just remember, these people do not appear to have a life and will strike out at any easy target, safe from harm. The internet embodies free speech and with it come the dolts who think they make a differe ce using this approach. Ignore them.

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"I have been following the activities of this site with keen interest in the last two months since I found it. It has some very good data on VW TDI. But the is one quite fanny thing on this page it has to do with Uncle Sam's boys(Americans). I find it fan y that of all the countries in the world, it is the US which should see the new Golf4 TDI last. Ever in Ghana presently The new Golf 4 TDI's are available e in the showrooms already and on the street too. You call us the dark continent. Are we really the ark when it comes to the Golf 4 TDI. This is to the Uncle Sam's boys. I am not boasting but so is the world. I know you will give EPA and others like safety to be the reasons for the delays. A car crash in the US kills like the one in Ghana and for that m tter in Africa. What do you have to say my Americans brothers. America speak and Africa will answer this time. Happy TDIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii William Ofori. I Say: Before you start slamming other countries you might want to proofread your useless letter in the target language. Dumb prick. "August Branchesi" muja@visi.net Hi TDI brothers I posted the above and Mr. August Branchesi" muja@visi.net sent the above e-mail. Is this the kind of mail that some TDI owner around the world send to each other. On the other hand I have received some mail from some well meaning Americans who explained he whole issue of the Golf 4 delayed introduction onto the America market. They are Noel Dennis of NapaSHO@concentric.net and Mr. Jon Bartlett of Jonbonbart@aol.com and I respect their opinions on the issue and learnt something from their responses I rec ived. The provocative statement was aimed at generating discussion not insults. What do you think fellow TDI owners? William Ofori.

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Sorry Bob but Tyson is right on the money - so to speak -'cause our lousy Canadian Peso is so worthless. The currency conversion is correct. I feel really lucky to be living up here since I've access to fuel at .371˘/lt.CDN or about 24˘/lt.US. It kinda makes all that mileage so unimportant.

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I checked EPA's web page (http://www.epa.gov) for the 1999 emissions ratings. For VW diesels, they list 1999 New Beetles, New Golfs, and New Jettas, all as manuals and automatics. No mention of diesel Passats or Audis. I don't think any car can be sold in the U.S. unless the manufacturer has EPA do the emissions test. --RJ

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I haven't had any luck finding a VW Diesel email list, so I thought I'd try here... Has anyone ever replaced the front/main crankshaft oil seal on the earlier VW diesels? I'm wondering how much work is involved. Do I have to pull the engine? I have tackled some pretty hairy repairs in the past, and now that I have a second car, I'm no so worried about tackling even bigger jobs. This is the only big leak that I have on the car, and I lose about 1.5 qts. between oil changes. Regards.

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Tyson, 1.039 per US gallon is about 27 cents per litre, not 45 as you stated. Did you take into account your worthless Canuck dollar with that number or something?

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In response to Howell from Montreal. I as well have never had winter starting problems, even with my old Jetta. The double pre-heat for the glow plugs works okay, but the main thing is to have good glow plugs, ensure your glow plug fuse is intact, run t e lightest viscosity oil you can, and make sure your battery is up to snuff. I used to spend most weekends in Kingston, Ont., a few years back (which has winter weather similar to Montreal's) and never had a starting problem, even on -35C days. As for diesel prices, anyone in the Mississauga area can fill up for 43.9/ litre at most Sunocos in town. I filled up on Highway 24 heading for Brantford last week and paid 43.6/ litre at the Apple Truck Stop. Gasoline was selling for 53.5. Oh the j ys of owning diesels! I filled up in Port Huron, Michigan last night for $1.039/ US gal., which works out to be about 45c/litre. Is this about the going rate for diesel in the States right now? I know tax rates are different in the various jurisdiction , but I thought that this was a pretty reasonable price. Happy dieseling!

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Hi fellow TDI´ers, Do you have Audi A4 available from your Audi/VW dealers? If you do, call them and ask for the new Audi A4 2.5 V6 Tdi ( yep the 150hp powerplant ). It´s the same engine you´ll see on the A6. It´s already available in Europe. By the way the 1,9 115hp is a bit delayed but it you´ll be on the streets by the end of 1998.

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Greetings everyone, Well it's been awhile, my car is ready to turn 100k soon. Any suggestions on what to look for or look out for at this stage in it's life ? A while back I made the change to all synthetic motor oil.I don't know why i held off so long, but I thought I would try to see if it would cut down on oil passing thru and out of the motor or turbo.No leaks, its still a tight motor,but it does use a quart or more of oil between changes. Any recommendations on the interval of change with synthetic ? All said and done th re has been no problems with the car,engine or parts breaking down.(Speaking of brakes, it's starting to worry me that I'm still on the original brakes ! They just don't wear out.)The only part I have a tough time with is the timing belt service at over $ 00. Its hard to swallow, but I do them anyway.

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I have been following the activities of this site with keen interest in the last two months since I found it. It has some very good data on VW TDI. But the is some quite fanny on this page it has to do with Uncle Sam's boys(Americans). I find it fanny that of all the courtries in the world it is the US which should see the new Golf4 TDI last. Ever in Ghana presently The new Golf 4 TDI's are availab e in the showrooms already and on the street too. You call us the dark continet . Are we really the dark when it comes to the Golf 4 TDI. This is to the Uncle Sam's boys. I am not boasting but so is the world. I know you will give EPA and others like safe y to be the reasons for the delays. A car crash in the US kills like the one in Ghana and for that matter in Africa. What do you have to say my american brothers. America speak and Africa will answer this time. Happy TDIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii William Ofori.

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I have been following the activities of this site with keen interest in the last two months since I found it. It has some very good data on VW TDI. But the is some quite fanny on this page it has to do with Uncle Sam's boys(Americans). I find it fanny that of all the courtries in the world it is the US which should see the new Golf4 TDI last. Ever in Ghana presently The new Golf 4 TDI's are availab e in the showrooms already and on the street too. You call us the dark continet . Are we really the dark when it comes to the Golf 4 TDI. This is to the Uncle Sam's boys. I am not boasting but so is the world. I know you will give EPA and others like safe y to be the reasons for the delays. A car crash in the US kills like the one in Ghana and for that matter in Africa. What do you have to say my american brothers. America speak and Africa will answer this time. Happy TDIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii William Ofori.

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no need for block heater try a double preheat on the glow plugs at temps below -25c i use esso protec 0w30 from december to february. this is a synthetic blend and is rated cg cf, sells at wal-mart 3.49 a litre. for all you diesel fans, fill up at the flying J truck stop 45.9 per litre, yes you read it right so long

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Does anyone know of any used(or new) TDI engines for sale? I'm looking to swap one into my Vanagon, but am having trouble locating a reasonably priced ($1500-2000) used engine. Any leads would be appreciated.

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Myles: I think Neuspeed is right about poor/low temperature readings with the sender mounted on the oil cooler. I did have the sender for the oil temp gauge on the cooler and only saw 160-175 degrees for max temps. I spoke to a fellow TDI owner who is usi g the drain-plug sender and is getting readings in the 200-210 range I believe. The guys at the local VW speed shop & myself were curious how hot the oil got after passing through the turbo charger. So we drilled & tapped the banjo bolt connecting the oil return line to the engine block & placed the sender there. The oil stays pretty cool. The temps only increased 10-20 degrees after passing through the turbo. I now see temps in th 180-200 range (depending on outside temp & engine load) while cruising on the highway. They oil temp got up to 220 while going up the smokies in Tennessee.

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Has anyone installed an oil temperature gauge which uses a VDO oil plug sending unit? I found mine mostly stripped and reinstalled with teflon tape after the last dealership oil change. It has always been against my better judgment to let the dealer to ch my car for anything except no charge warrenty work. But, I figured that it would save me time and money as they replaced the air filter and bled the brake system as well (20K maintence). I am thinking about replacing the oil plug sender with one that s mounted on top of the oil filter housing . Nuespeed originally talked me out of this sender because they said it read low due to the oil cooler. Any opinions? I will not be taking the car back to the dealer for any more "free" oil changes. Thanks

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I've been occasionally checking this site to see if anyone has info on whether VW will actually sell TDI in the Golf or Passat. Automobile magazine said this month that the new golf will be out next spring with a TDI and the new Jetta (Bora) will be out y Christmas with the TDI. They don't mention the TDI for the Passat. Other magazines make no mention of a TDI except in the '99 Jetta and in fact make no mention of the Bora or new Golf coming anytime soon (not til 2000 or later). Anyone know where to ind accurate info about this?

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I've been occasionally checking this site to see if anyone has info on whether VW will actually sell TDI in the Golf or Passat. Automobile magazine said this month that the new golf will be out next spring with a TDI and the new Jetta (Bora) will be out y Christmas with the TDI. They don't mention the TDI for the Passat. Other magazines make no mention of a TDI except in the '99 Jetta and in fact make no mention of the Bora or new Golf coming anytime soon (not til 2000 or later). Anyone know where to ind accurate info about this?

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Hello Klaus. Nobody is intentionally ignoring SEAT or Skoda. Most of the VW TDI fans that post messages are from North America and VAG does not import SEAT or Skoda here. So we know little or nothing about the cars. We would love to hear from European owners who own any Audi with any TDI engine, specifically an A6 with the 2.5L TDI V6. Audi does not import any cars with diesel engin s to North America. VAG has been very slow to import TDI cars. The only TDI cars we have are very few 96 and 97 Passats, 97, 98, and some 99 Jettas. VAG never imported any TDI Golfs, but continues to tease us with rumors of a Golf TDI model for 1999. he only diesel cars available in North America are from Mercedes Benz and Volkswagen. MBZ only imports one diesel model. Cheap energy over here means our roads are clogged up with pick-up trucks that never haul anything, minivans that never carry passen ers, and SUVs that never go off road. All these new high-technology low-emission super-clean high-efficiency diesel engines available in Europe are unheard of over here, so all you guys on the East side of the Atlantic have to keep us informed. And sto buying so many TDI models over there so VAG will have more to import here!

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You should not ignore the VW derivates like SEAT and Skoda. These are marvellous cars with excellent design and very good VW-quality. The SEAT-Toledo is on Base of Golf III with the newest TDI with 81KW. And the Skoda Oktavia is based on Audi A3.

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Martin, do you park your car in the same place every night? Do you notice any drips around the front of your car? The reason that I ask is because my car blew a seal and my oil consumption was high. The dealer told me it was 'cosmoline' that was used i shipping. Yeah, right. They've since replaced the seal. You cannot localize the oil leak because the tray under the engine spreads the oil. Look into it. My car was dripping since new! On a brighter note, I've logged almost 15,000 miles on my car s nce April and the oil leak was the only real problem (a fuse fell out of its socket when I got it home)!

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Martin, Document this with Volkwagen. If you get problems down the road it would be useful to you to be able to point to this experience. On a related note, I would like some constructive feedback here. Since I've owned my car, the steering wheel, despite 10 visits to the dealer is STILL not alligned, the rear hatch mechanism failed, the rearview mirror had to be replaced it buzzed so much, the stereo had to be swapped out because one of the channels was 't working on side A of the cassette, the fog lamps fogged up(!) and had to be replaced, I've gone over a week with the "check engine" light on because of a failed glowplug relay which is on back order, the oil lamp keeps blinking/beeping at start up (6 d fferent occasions), and now third gear has begun to rattle. I have NOT embellished here. Would you call this a lemon? Thank you for listening. Mark

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ACK!!!

I'm at 2700 miles right now. roughly 15 days ago, I was at 2200 miles, which was the last time I checked my oil level. I was right in the middle of the "safe" region, so I figured I was okay. I popped the hood open this morning and found that I had gone far below the safe region -- past the indented par of the dipstick, in fact.

Has anyone experienced consumption this fast? I went on a long (80 miles or so), tough, hilly drive this past weekend and I'm worried that I've done some permanent damage to the engine. Could it have been the drive that burned so much oil? (For tho e of you from the SF Bay Area, I took HWY 1 down from SF, through 84, then down PageMill to 280)

Mostly I'm worried that my pride and joy is in jeopardy. How much tolerance does VW put into these engines?

thanks,

-martin

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Any of you considering putting in a block heater yourself re- think!! I put one in my 98tdi and took nearly 5 hours and 2 years off my life. The dificulty lies in placement, behind the turbo and rear motor mount. unless your a good back yard mechanic, and have improvising ideas plus a air hammer, don't try it. Save yourself and spend the money at the dealer. Has any one upgraded their suspension!

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Wing-Man, the "problem" you're experiencing is normal. It is soot from the exhaust. Yes, TDi's do produce soot from the tailpipe. My car has this problem and I just live with it. I do drive my car hard and this may contribute to my car having more soo build-up than other TDi's. That's probably why they turned our tailpipe ends down, so that it doesn't end up on our cars. The next time you give it full throttle in first, look in your rearview mirror for a thin smokescreen that you've left behind.

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Hi, Just got a Golf GL Estate TDi (registered Nov. 97). It's a great car. First two tankfulls 55.3 mpg and 53.3mpg, note that English gallons are eight pints. US ones are five? Diesel is a little more expensive than unleaded petrol in the UK, but there are still a lot of TDi badges about. Regarding TDi options, the UK VW site has nifty design-your-car pages. Of course it doesn't mean too much for all you US/Canada people, but it sounds like VWoA is even less helpfull. http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/mn_home.html

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Sorry, I didn't include the exact URL to the page that gives you the figures... it is

http://autosmart.nrcan.gc.ca/pubs/fcg2_e.cfm

Please note, if looking at MPG, these are Canadian, and costs of running the cars are in Canadian Dollars. You can get more info about the figures if you go in on from the main site (located in the link below)

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As for D. Johnson's comments, I found the article very interesting. It is so unfortunate, but that is the way consumers in North America are feeling.

However, I wouldn't necessarily say that the Golf IV TDI is coming just because it is listed by the EPA. Go to http://autosmart.nrcan.gc.ca/ which is the Canadian equivalent. They have the 1998 Pas at TDI listed, and I can remember in 1996 & 1997 they had the Golf & Jetta listed, when the Jetta only came in late 1997. I wish it were true, but I have a bad feeling given VW's recent actions. Perhaps if some of us write to VW, we might get some more ction. I don't mean anything long, but maybe going to www.vw-online.de and writing some mail to Germany. They will forward it for you to VW of America or Canada.

What do you guys think about this?

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got a left over 98 two weeks ago, great prices. two tanks of fuel and getting 40 mpg. are there any good aftermarket seats for this car?

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AH! Some potentially good news for those of us longing for the G.IV TDi...well, good news for those that believe what they read between the lines, but that's the best way to get new info on VW's, no? Just read an A.P. article by Josef Hebert entitled "Ame icans are paying little attention to fuel efficiency." (http://www.auto.com/topstories/aw1.htm). In the article, it says how gas is so cheap, how we Americans are happy driving guzzling SUV's, etc etc. It lists the best and worst fuel efficient cars in th US today. In 1st place for gas engines is the Chevy Metro, and for diesel engines, 1st place is shared between the "New Beetle," the "New Jetta", and the "New GOLF". The information for this article comes from the EPA's fuel efficiency listing of 765 ehicles. Now, the interesting part about this is that the EPA tested none of these vehicles, but rather compiled the mileage figures "based on manufacturers' tests." In other words, VW gave mileage figures for the New Golf to the US EPA. Why, if VW wer not interested in brining the Golf TDi to the States? There are no figures for the Passat,Lupo,etc TDi, but there sure is for the Golf TDi. Perhaps some hope that there is planning in the works? chau/dj

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I now have 2,000 miles on my Jetta. I have used 1 quart of oil and I'm averaging 38 mpg. Hopefuly this will all improve. This is a great and fun car to drive. Lots of power for a car that gets good milage. The one and only thing I noticed about the c r that was a little disapointing was that the grille seemed to have been left behind when they put all the quality in the rest of the car. To solve the flimsly grille problem I removed the four screws that hold it in along the top and depressed the two atches at the far end of grille and removed it. I then took some Household GOOP and applied it to the back of the TDI emblem and to the interfaces of the front and back of the grille. I also added a block of foam about 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1 1/2 " to eac end of the grille to help stabilize the ends. When the glue dryed the grille assembly was much more solid. A great improvement for a little time investment. Any questions send me a E-Mail. Does anybody know if there is a filter for filtering the air that comes into the inside of the car available? I have used 3M Filtreate filter media to cover the inlet and it sure helps to clean the air coming in. It just seems like there should be a bet er solution. Happy TDIing

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I have owned my TDI since Dec/98. At 7000 Km, I noticed some black carbon deposited at the tip of the tail pipe. The dealer did some adjustment. Now, at about 25000 Km, I saw carbon accumulated at the tail pipe again. Did anyone have such experience with uch? Did anyone know if this should be a concern? I would appreciate if anyone can tell me a fix for this?

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As a response to your search for an acceptable tire I would most emphatically recommend the Michelin X-One as I am currently on my second set. The first set went away after 90,000 kms.(55,000 mi). Now this may sound like not a lot, but considering that I spend approx.40% of the time on unimproved gravel roads (which in the past have chewed tires in a little as 30,000 kms.) they've been great! T e main reason I tried them was their primo warranty of 6-years UNLIMITED distance, with the first 3 years being non-prorated for adjustments. They have proven themselves to me in wet conditions with very little hydroplanning. And while the Jetta is not a "canyon carver", the tires present themselves a level of grip that pulls an amazing amount of stick from the car.I cannot comment on their sn w-ability as snow grips are all I use in the depths of winter. My second set of tires came about 'cause of the warranty (tread-bar, 90000 kms., 27 months) and Michelin handled it no problemo... These were the only tires that I've taken from a used car(my 95 Golf) and told the dealer to keep the OE-ones and put the on the trade-in car. I hope this is of some help to you- if it is post your results so we can read them here.

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As a response to your search for an acceptable tire I would most emphatically recommend the Michelin X-One as I am currently on my second set. The first set went away after 90,000 kms.(55,000 mi). Now this may sound like not a lot, but considering that I spend approx.40% of the time on unimproved gravel roads (which in the past have chewed tires in a little as 30,000 kms.) they've been great! T e main reason I tried them was their primo warranty of 6-years UNLIMITED distance, with the first 3 years being non-prorated for adjustments. They have proven themselves to me in wet conditions with very little hydroplanning. And while the Jetta is not a "canyon carver", the tires present themselves a level of grip that pulls an amazing amount of stick from the car.I cannot comment on their sn w-ability as snow grips are all I use in the depths of winter. My second set of tires came about 'cause of the warranty (tread-bar, 90000 kms., 27 months) and Michelin handled it no problemo... These were the only tires that I've taken from a used car(my 95 Golf) and told the dealer to keep the OE-ones and put the on the trade-in car. I hope this is of some help to you- if it is post your results so we can read them here.

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Hi Trois (Quebec), Thanks for your info. Sorry I cannot answer any of your questions. The new Golf is more the shape of the Audi A3. Regards Adrian.

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Great car. Selling 20% off here; $12,700! Salesmen are totally ignorant of TDI tech. Drive 180 miles/day,cruise 79 m/hr=45 mpg. oil- 1 quart/5000 miles. Just had the fuel tank replaced because it would not accept fuel unless it was kept at a trickle by ha d. Questions: 1. If I run out of fuel can it be restarted without bleeding the injectors? 2. Looking for a really quiet road tire. The interstate surfaces are course here and the noise intrudes on that great stereo . 3.Where can you buy a comfortable seat. These rocks make my old ford aspire feel like a limo!?! Thanks Fred for this great site. For such a great technology there is almost no info or awareness. TDI forever

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Best car ever made. Saving for chiptunning.

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Is the Golf TDI coming to North America? Who knows. It was supposed to be here in '95, but we all know how VW opperates:(. Anyways, I wrote VW Germany at their website (www.vw-online.com). They wrote back to me a few weeks ago and said that it is up to the local subsidiary what models and equipment are offered.
I then got a letter from VW Canada last week. They stated

"As for your inquiry about the 1999 Volkswagen Golf TDI, the latest on this issue from the factory is, that there is no project of building such vehicles for yer 1999"

Does this include the US, I don't know. I read at www.vwvortex.com that the Golf is supposed to come with a TDI option, but I'm not sure if that is a 1999 build model, or possible a 2000 model. Anyways, if you are interested in such a vehicle, I highly sugge t emailing VW Germany (They will forward the letter for you), or if you want, VW Canada or VW USA directly. Maybe one day they will considering building a Golf TDI....

BTW VW Canada's address is:
Volkswagen Canada Inc.
777 Bayly Street West
AJAX, Ontario,
L1S 7G7

Fred

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To Adrian : A Rabbit was North-American version of the the european Golf until 1985 when it was changed to Golf here too. ** It is like the Jetta / Vento . Wolfsburg is a name tag added to a Golf or Jetta meaning it is a special edition of the regular c r. ** Can anyone shed more light on when the TDI Golf will be available in North-America ?? I've seen some of the previous posting but it's not realy clear to me,will it be the new body style (A4) and which model year 1999 or 2000 ?

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Hi folks, Excuse me for being a thick Englishman but what is a VW Rabbit, and what is a Golf Wolfsburg apart from the obvious of being built in Germany???? Regards A happy TDI owner..

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Hi everybody, i read all the stuff u guys wrote and could see that u don't have the new GOLF IV, i mean any of u own it, so since i own one of them, let me tell u somethings guys, this is an awesome vehicle i mean if u like the GOLF III well u just gonna kill for the new GOLF IV mine is The TDI version the biggest one full option, etc..... it cames with 110 horse power but i bossted it to 145 horse power and i'm planning on going to 175-180 horse power, if u wanna know how, e-mail me and i will tell some advices......

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has anyone had any problems with the car bottoming out when they go over a dip in the road? i have quite a bit.....great milage so far at 47mpg

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Like the page, but where are the audi's ??

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Just returned from a week's fling/vacation/mad drive around Spain. Saw plenty of VW's crusing the road. Every once in a while, a gas powered Passat came driving by, but for the most part, almost every Passat I saw had a TDi tag on it. I guess VW is correc in saying that they are selling like crazy over there. Silver seemed to be the most popular color. Also had a chance to look at the IV Golf. They weren't nearly as many of them as Passats, but they also had a good number of TDi tags on them. Parked next to one in a garage in Sevilla. It was the first time Ive seen one up in person. They do look different when standing next to them than they do in photos. A very well built car...excellent interior. The car looks hungry...almost begging to be driven. Can't wait till they arrive here.... Walking around Sevilla, I thought I saw what was the new Seat Arosa. Didnt realize that they were on the market already. Just read on the net today that VW has become the first manf. to produce a 3 liter auto, using the Lup /Arosa. If math is correct, thats 78mpg. wow! Stephen...better to wait at least 18-24 months, otherwise you'll be throwing away money. But dont worry...as VW goes, they probably wont have the Golf TDi in the US for another 18 months anyways. regards/dj

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I really hope someone can help me here as I am about to have a heart attack. Look here, I truly love my Wolfsburg Golf but when I was buying it the guy who sold it to me (at a VW dealership) said that the TDI Golf was not coming out next year. When I ca led VWoA they also confirmed the same thing. NOW VWoA is saying that it IS coming out next year!? I feel so screwed! What would be the best direction for me right now? I'm thinking of trading in my Wolfsburg next year for one but I have no idea if its alue would be enough to to pay the loan I already have on it (at 9%). Should I wait until Calender year 2000 and just keeping paying on it? This really sucks! Oh one more thing, will VW allow people to pick better interior upolstery(sp) inside of the T I instead of that ugly tan GL styled stuff? I really enjoy the dark flock diaginol (Sp) seats in my Wolfsburg. And what about a Fuba antenna... oh well.. Thanks for listening

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I have a little project going on that involves threading the shift lever all the way down. I've measured the thread size as 12 mm diam and 1.5 mm pitch. Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried cutting more thread? thanks...D'nardo

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Enjoyed your enthusiastic web pages and information. Wanted to say hello and wish you more good driving.

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Hi TDI enthusiasts! This is my first posting. I'm a great TDI fan and i'm waiting for the delivery of my brand new Seat Ibiza 1.9 TDI (90hp). I like Diesel...more torque, less pollution, less consumption, more durability and our VW engines represent the best in automotive diesel! I read about a new TDI for Europe (probably not for USA): VW Polo TDI 1.2 1.2 litres 61 hp /4000min 140 Nm /2000min 13.9 sec in 0-100 km/h 165 km/h max speed 2,89 l/100km (Euromix average consumption) more info (in German) at: http://www.autobild.de/archiv/ausgaben/1998/10/40/aktuell2/index.hbs?referer=1998/10/40 http://www.motor-presse-online.de/zeitschriften/ams/inhalt/aktuell/inhalt4.htm Recently i drove an Audi A6 2.5 V6 TDI...what an experience! It's a sport Diesel without noise and relatively low fuel consumption! Like in every "Diesel driver"'s dreams! Bye all! Ciao a tutti!

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Just wanted to give an update to the problem with my "turbo". It turns out that it was not fried as they thought but (with the oil leak they thought felt the seals had let loose).They put it back together and when they fired it up it began to spurt oil rom the high pressure feeder line thru a hairline crack in the "elbow" area.Unfortunately the next day brought a line in from Toronto (for the old TD) and one had to be ordered from the Fatherland. In six days my car was done and the universe could unfold as it should once again. Could anyone shed some light on any experiences with p-chips of any discription???? Concerning a previous letter as to the cold starting abilty of the tdi---- coldest without plugging it in---- -42C!!! not bad I think...

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I have just received my brand new SEAT CORDOBA TDI, Seat is a Spanish Make that is owned by the VAG Group (Volkswagen-Audi) and the car is so fine. The Platform and the chassis are the same than the Golf 3 one and many elements are the same that the ones f that car. My engine is the 110 HP one and the car runs very very fast, with a very low diesel consumption. Here the Diesel is 30% cheaper than petrol, and with the minimun mensual salary you can only buy 525 liter of Unleaded petrol, then, the Diesel engined are al ost 50% of new cars purchased here. I am very happy with my new car. Salutations. Mito21

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Craig: I'm pretty sure that under one of the dummy reflectors, there's also a place to screw in a tow hook (which is back with the spare tire). I must confess I haven't checked with this car, but that's the way it was with the '95 Golf I had, and I'm as uming they'd be the same. You can just pry off the covers with a screwdriver (which is also back in the spare tire area.) I don't know if you were hellbent on a Panasonic CD changer, but if you aren't averse to Clarion, I got a Clarion for $279, and sin e they made my stereo, I didn't need an adaptor. I believe someone said several months back that the Clarion dash units have the little tabs on the tapedeck cover. Also: Has anyone noticed any paint problems? I've only had mine 3 months, and I noticed a small rust-colored crack in the paint on the bottom of the right door frame. There's also a chunk missing from inside the right side front door that I know isn't rom a ding or anything.

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re swapping a tdi into an A2 chassis, it can be done, but here the important items to consider, 1, the a2 has a clutch cable, and a throttle cable, 2, the tdi engine has the clutch/pressureplate/flywheel set up reverse from whar was common on the previous engines because they now have a hydraulic clutch. also the throttle is electronic (drive by wire) the easiest way to sway, assuming you can get the complete engine including comupter(s), would be reuse you existing gearbox (I have assumed that the crank still has the same bolt parttern iregardless of the flywheel/pressure plate used), and hope you ca make the dirve by wire setup fit under the dash, if not ge a IDI 1.9l diesel as an exchange. the engine comparts between A@ and A3 are basically the same since they are the same chassis. c.l.

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I called VOA to voice my opinions and find out information. The new Jetta/Bora will have the 90 hp TDI and there are no plans to bring over the 110 hp engine. I voiced my opinion here and think that everyone on this page should do so as well! I am glad the Golf will be offered in the TDI in 99.

TO WILLIAM: The tires may rub on your wheel well. I hear that shouldn't be too big of a deal once the plastic wears away. Your speedometer will read slow by 6%, you should get slightly better gas mileage and accelerate a little slower - if you even noti e. About the leaking turbo... I know nothing, but you had better get that fixed soon! D'nardo....

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My question is how does the TDI start in the winter? At what temperature do you have to use the block heater? What is the coldest temp it will start unaided? I am thinking of buying one and would hate to see not start this winter. Thank you.

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I AM PRESENT USING A BBS ALLOY RIMS AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THESE ARE THE BEST AROUND. SECONDLY, THE RIMS SIZE IS 15 AND THE PRESENT TYRE SIZE I AM USING IS 205/60 R15 BUT THE RECOMMENDED SIZE BY VAG FOR R\15 IS 20/50 R15. WHAT I'M DOING TO MY CAR. WHAT DO YOU THINK LET ME KNOW. MY TURBO UNIT IS LEAKING OIL, WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT. ANY IDEAS. LET ME KNOW WILLIE OFORI

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Still have less than 1k miles. Spoke to VOA about what kind of oil ships in the engine, so that I can top off with like when it needs it. They said that the cars ship "dry", and don't get filled until they reach the US port. They said either 5 or 10 weight is used. they replied via my answering machine, so I don't know if they meant 5, 5W30, 5W40, etc. Either way, they said not to worry if I put in a quart of a dissimilar viscosity - it won't hurt the engine. They did say to have local dealer add the oil so that it will be documen ed if I want. I'm not too happy with their answer.

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can anyone tell me how there NB goes in snow ?????

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What the hell is this, Russia?

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I talked to VOA this week. Indications are that the new Jetta and Golf will be unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show in January 99. The Golf will have the TDI available latter in the year. No plans for the TDI in the Passat as of yet.

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Hi. Your car should've come with a separate user's manual for the stereo. There's a sticker that goes in the book with the four-digit code that gets punched in to reactivate your radio. The book also tells you how to enter the code. If you know the code, ut not the procedure, perhaps I can help you by sending the procedure. Let me know. Take Care, Scott

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What VW TDI models will be available in the USA for 1999? Will the 1999 new body style Jetta/Vento be available as a TDI model in the U.S.?

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Anybody know how to get the radio working again after the power has been disconnected. The dealer replaced the ignition switch and returned the car with the radio in the "safe" mode. They now tell me that they have to take the radio out. I have the sec rity code but what good does it do if the radio does nothing but display "safe"? I am amazed that the owner's manual does not cover this. Anyway. it cost $473 to replace the ignition switch.

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Hi. IRT the three "indicators," only one works... the blinker. The other two are just blanks. One is for where the factory fog lamps would go, the other appears to be worthless. Those blanks come out very easily. Just pry them open from the inboard side ( could mine with just my fingers). They (both connected, not separate) swing out on little hinges, then snap off. I'm considering installing factory fog lamps, but they're expensive. I've also seen little air ducts that snap in. The can be ducted to cool he engine compartment or to directly cool the brakes. Hope this helps. Scott

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Haven't had my Jetta but 6 days now. The front appears to have 3 indicator/parking/running lights on each side, but only one works. Are the other two not used - just for looks? Can bulbs and wiring be added? Would like to have fog lights. Just filled up for the 2nd time - 41 mpg. Have found a Panasonic changer and adapter thru a local dealer for $350. beats VW's $500. Find your local dealer from the maker of the adapters: http://www.stinger-aamp.com I find the center console pretty worthless - won't hold anything but a naked can. If I ever drink out of a can, it will at least be dressed with a hugger (koozy). Am thinking of filling this void with a panel of gages - oil pressure, voltmeter, transmis ion temp and hour meter. The hour meter will tell me my avg mph over the life of the car. Looking at VDO gages from Continental Imports - they have a real good sight.

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Howdy Fellow TDI Folks: Purchased my TDI in June and have about 6500 miles on the clock. Every time I get in, it's like the first time. Can't tell you how much I dig this car, and it's my fourth new VW since 1978, when i first started driving. One of my old VW's was an '81 Deise Rabbit. Loved that car, especially in the snow. Regretted every trading it in until I bought this Jetta. Haven't had any issues so far (KNOCK WOOD!) and have had 2 oil changes so far, the first at 1500 miles to get the new engine grit out. I MUST STRESS o new TDI owners to CHECK YOUR OIL REGULARLY! They do burn a quart every now & then. Haven't documented how much, but I add oil (very little) every other week. Anyway folks, I don't have anything critical to write, just hope you all dig your TDI's as much as I do mine. Oh, a married couple that are my best freinds each bought a TDI after seeing & riding in mine: one NB & Jetta. Oh, if anyone knows this please email me: I would be interested in knowing VW's biggest market states. I travel some and always co e to the conclusion that Connecticut HAS to be in the top 10. So many VW's here, new & old, that we have to be a top market. Probably California too. Anyway, good luck with your wheels and drive safely!

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Nate, for information on diesel engine swaps, I refer you to the Summer 1998 edition of "VW Power" magazine, published by "European Car". This issue was totally devoted to VW engine swaps, both gas and diesel, between the A1, A2, and A3 chassis. The art cle claims that a TDI swap into an A1 or A2 is not impossible, but has never been attempted by anyone that they know of. Some alternatives are to replace yours with a remanufactured version of the 1.6 IDI (prechamber injection) TD that you already have, r to go with a brand new 1.9 IDI TD, which is the same engine in my '98 Golf TD. This engine does 75 bhp and 110 lb-ft of torque, and bolts in directly to the A2 engine bay, using the same engine mounts and transmission as your worn-out 1.6. This engine was only offered for sale in Canadian and European models between 1992-98, but a company called Eurospec, located in Gilroy, California, is selling them in the US, complete with the turbo and injection pump already installed. They list a price of $2695.0 US, which sounds steep, but is probably a bargain compared with what you would pay for a complete TDI engine and tranny, even from a wrecker. Eurospec's phone number is (408) 848-4205, fax (408) 848-3045. This 1.9 has a 10% increase in hp and an 11% in rease in torque over the 1.6, so it may be worth checking out. Good luck!

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I would recommend the Mk 4 Golf TDI to anyone. It is far superior to the Mk 3, especially regarding safety, ie Driver/passenger and side airbags, ABS, Disk brakes all round. The engine appears much quieter than the Mk 3 and performance and fuel consumption is better. Interior is much nicer, Plenty of storage space, attractive dash centre front/rear arm rests and plenty more. No I do not work for VW, Its just a very good car. Happy TDing.

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My previous Golf TDI Mk 3 covered 31,000 miles averaging 49 mpg. My new Golf Mk 4 TDI 90BHP is averaging around 54 mpg via on board cumputer. an average

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I've had a Mk3 Golf TDI for a year covering 30,000

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Nate, I dont have any experience in this but my local VW guru has done many VR6 conversions in the A2 chassis. It's my understanding that the engine & transmission mounts line up perfectly, but I think the hardest part of the conversion is adapting the A2 car to use a hydraulic clutch & to use the new electrcal system from the A3 car.

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Nate, my '98 Jetta is cable-shifted and the clutch is hydraulic so it'll take some work to get the transaxle in. I don't know about the engine. Are the older TDI's (especially the Passat) the same???

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Does any one know if the TDI engine and possibly the transmission will fit in an '85 Jetta without major mofifications? The engine, turbo, and injection pump in my '85 are getting tired, but the body is rust and dent free. Any help is appreciated. Than s.

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Does any one know if the TDI engine and possibly the transmission will fit in an '85 Jetta without major mofifications? The engine, turbo, and injection pump in my '85 are getting tired, but the body is rust and dent free. Any help is appreciated. Than s.

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Hi. I wanted to share some experiences at the dealer yesterday. Many people say that the dealers overfill their cars during oil changes. Mine does, too. This time, I told the mechanic to put in four quarts (of the required 4.4) and put the other quart in he trunk. This worked very well. The oil level is sitting at the top of the etched section of the dipstick. Now I have an extra, dealer-supplied quart for adding oil as needed. Next, I hear lots of people complaining about oil filter expense. I was able t confirm the filter part used on my car is 068 115 561B. They sell for $7.95 each. I bought an extra (and may continue to do so)in case I find myself in an area without this reasonably priced OE filter. Finally, I was looking at a new fuel filter (for fam liarization only). The parts guy said I shouldn't need one so soon. I agreed and told him I'm expecting a new one at the 20k checkup. His remark was that this fuel filter should last over 50000mi. "Why replace the fuel filter unless it's giving you proble s?" was his comment. The owner's manual says replace the fuel filter every 20000mi. The way I see it, the dealer should be replacing it for free when I go back in 4000mi. If the service guy gives me the same song, I AM entitled to the filter, right? Any c mments or similar experiences? Thanks! Scott

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In answering Roos' question in what is involved in converting a naturally aspirated VW diesel to a turbo diesel, I offer the following insight: This is how the older TDs differ from the N/A diesels: 1. The injection pump is different. It has a turbo boo t enrichment diaphram and higher injection pressure (about 20%)for added fuel output. 2. Injectors are set to higher opening pressures. 3. Higher volume oil pump to cool pistons (see below) and to lubricate turbo. 4. Oil cooling jets at base of block poin upward to squirt oil on undersides of pistons for added cooling at higher RPMs. (Pistons are notched on one side of their skirts for cooling jet clearance). 5. Valve seats are stronger. 6. Pistion ring geometry is slightly different for better oil contr l. 7. I think the block is reinforced for greater strength. 8. Intake plumbing is drastically different as is the exhaust manifold. 9. The muffler & resonater piping diameter is greater for the larger gas volume it must handle. These are the major dif erences, there are probabally other differences as well. With that said, you can either locate a used TD motor w/ injection pump and turbo (don't know how available they are), or just bolt on a used turbo w/ the necessary plumping changes and hope for th best. This will not be nearly as durable and bear in mind that power will not be much greater because you are not using the modified injection pump and injectors that injects more fuel as boost pressure increases. I know nothing about aftermarket bolt- n turbos for this application. One final point: the 1.6 liter TD generates 16 more hp than the N/A diesel. My TD is still very slugish compared to modern standards, but at highway speeds has acceptable power. Even if you put the 1.6 l TD in your Jetta, you may not be happy with it. I am waiting to find a used TDI motor (and tranny?) to install it in mine if they fit!! Good luck.

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In answering Roos' question in what is involved in converting a naturally aspirated VW diesel to a turbo diesel, I offer the following insight: This is how the older TDs differ from the N/A diesels: 1. The injection pump is different. It has a turbo boo t enrichment diaphram and higher injection pressure (about 20%)for added fuel output. 2. Injectors are set to higher opening pressures. 3. Higher volume oil pump to cool pistons (see below) and to lubricate turbo. 4. Oil cooling jets at base of block poin upward to squirt oil on undersides of pistons for added cooling at higher RPMs. (Pistons are notched on one side of their skirts for cooling jet clearance). 5. Valve seats are stronger. 6. Pistion ring geometry is slightly different for better oil contr l. 7. I think the block is reinforced for greater strength. 8. Intake plumbing is drastically different as is the exhaust manifold. 9. The muffler & resonater piping diameter is greater for the larger gas volume it must handle. These are the major dif erences, there are probabally other differences as well. With that said, you can either locate a used TD motor w/ injection pump and turbo (don't know how available they are), or just bolt on a used turbo w/ the necessary plumping changes and hope for th best. This will not be nearly as durable and bear in mind that power will not be much greater because you are not using the modified injection pump and injectors that injects more fuel as boost pressure increases. I know nothing about aftermarket bolt- n turbos for this application. One final point: the 1.6 liter TD generates 16 more hp than the N/A diesel. My TD is still very slugish compared to modern standards, but at highway speeds has acceptable power. Even if you put the 1.6 l TD in your Jetta, you may not be happy with it. I am waiting to find a used TDI motor (and tranny?) to install it in mine if they fit!! Good luck.

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Darren, I already know that the VW oil filter on my car is "made in France". This means VW has more than one suppliers of filters (and other parts also). Tin

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Very impressed with my new TDI if it had a chip tuning it would defendly smoke a 98 chevy 350 w/limited slip diff already wins till third gear by some length but third is laggy. Best of all you do this @ 40miles/gallon not 15-20.So much for smelly slow di sels, believe me I had a rabbit. Happy TDIING

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Mike, they probably put the gas pedal up against the center console to give you something to rest your leg on while on a long trip. Also, it is nice to be able to brace against the center console when cornering hard. Fahrvergnugen and all!!

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08/18/98 15:07:17 From 8/18/98 If anyone is still looking for an aftermarket CD Changer for their 98 Volkswagon they are now available via the internet. Sound Conceptions in Fort Lee NJ. @ WW.Autotoys.com, has the adapters for the panasonic cdxp601 CD changer and will sell you a comp e e kit for $285.00. I ordered one via their fax number (saved $5.00, they are running a promotion) on Wensday afternoon and recieved it via UPS on Fri. Not bad... Though I live in the same state. I installed the unit myself... NO PROBLEMS and the system so nds great. You will need an Adult to accept the deliver from UPS. AND.... 08/19/98 14:19:18 Name: Goio B. ....With regards to CD changers (G.Jablonski's posting), I too was looking for a changer for my NB, and after ordering the Clarion by accident, got the Panasonic Unit from a Mail order house in Brooklyn NYC for $200. I bought an adaptor (Blitzsafe) Starla d & Beck in Milford, CT, and they said they would have sold and installed the whole package for $239. I missed-out, but anyone in the area should consider this option. The only thing I noticed is that this CD player has no random shuffle mode, which the f ctory unit does, but it's not worth $250 extra to me.... I hope this helps...

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I'm off to Munich- and will drive a 110 hp version of our 1.9L and will then have an Audi A4 with the V6 TDI (and quattro) for about 4 days. I will have to let you all know how this goes. It should be one hell of a car.

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After driving Jap cars for 23 years, I now have 4 months and 10,000 miles with my TDI Jetta. Here are my brief comparison comments:........VW TDI POSITIVES:...solid feel, better at high speeds, great mileage(43city-48HWY), exceptional looks, Best warrant e(100K miles eng/dvt)...VW TDI NEGATIVES...Poor/uncomfortable seats, Base sound system only fair, poor cup holders, rear view mirror too low(I raised mine 2"), gas pedal too far to the right(my lower right leg is always pressed against the center dash con ole). BOTTOM LINE....Still a great car, and I e-mailed VW about what I did'nt like......Mike...Out...

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Hi All, Anyone getting harmonic vibration in third gear @ approx. 2000rpm? I can't tell if it's TDI or NB specific. Thanks.

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Darren, From what I know, VW puts synthetic transmission fluid in our transaxles. No fluid changes-lasts the life of the car, and we get better shifting as a result (think about that the next time you downshift and just stick the lever into the next low r gear. On older VWs you can't just stick it into the next lower gear without double-clutch heel-and-toeing it. My '78 & '81 Sciroccos were that way and my brother's '92 GTI is that way).

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Hate to disappoint you Tin, but the original VW oil filter is made right here in North Carolina by Wix. It can be purchased, sans the VW logo, at any retailer selling Wix, or at any NAPA store. Now on to a different subject. Is anyone aware of the lubr cant required for the manual trasmission, the owner's literature lists none.

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Hate to disappoint you Tin, but the original VW Filter is made by Wix, right here in North Carolina. It can be purchased, sans the VW logo, at any retailer who sells Wix, or at any NAPA store. Now on to a different subject. Anyone know of the type of l bricant required for the manual transmission? Could not find anything in the owner's literature.

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For those of you that wish to save a few bucks and not help in putting your VW parts dealer's children through college, Deutsch (Auto Zone) has an oil filter D-534 for @$3.69 which fits TDI's perfectly. Have been using it for 55K on my wagon and haven't m ssed a beat - FYI.

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Hi TDI-friends Yesterday I switched to Mobil 1 5W50 synthetic. Frisrt thing noticed when starting the engine was : No tapping from valves and no more blinking of oil pressure warning light during the first seconds of runing. The oil filter was difficult to remove, and I had to remove the underside engine cover to get better access to the filter. At last I borrowed a chain-type filter wrench which provides much better grip on the filter than the strap-type filter wrench of min . And of course nothing but VW-geguine oil filters are allowed on my TDI-engine! Happy TDI-ing Tin

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Adding the TDI option to the Jetta is about $950 more($1175 minus free cruise control of $225). So I would guess that a PASSAT Diesel option should cost appx. $1000 - $1200 more. Again, you must strip away any options that come with a TDI package in order to calculate the diesel addition by itself.

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Would anyone have any information on an approximate base price of a Passat V6 TDI if it is in fact introduced to America. How much do you think this engine will add to the current base price. I am crossing my fingers but hope to see this auto on the roa . I am currently a student but already dreaming about purchasing my first TDI. Great page Fred.

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If you take your car to any decent car audio shop they will be able to get you the necessary plug to adapt the factory plug (located in the trunk on the back wall) to a Panasonic changer. There are 2 or 3 companies that have started making the adapter (pr cision interface and blitz-safe both do). If anyone tries to sell you one to connect to a clarion changer then they are talking about the last year and before model Jettas and should be ignored. Hope this helps.

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Just purchased a new 98 Jetta TDI. Am real happy except for the lack of lumbar support. Will be looking to see if I can add the adjustment mechanism to my seat. Have looked into the CD changer, the dealer wants $500. Crutchfield shows only $290 for a changer that plugs directly in to existing plug (according to catalog). When I called, they asked if I had a round or rectangular plug. My reply (unfortunately) was that it was a rectangular plug. He said that an adapter is not ye available for this, and is not sure if the radio is Clarion or Panasonic. He suggested I keep trying back every couple of weeks and maybe something will show. Also, anybody know of aftermarket exhaust headers that might improve power/mileage even more?

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Like the car very much, even though i've never gotten over 36 or 37 mpg. Bad driver!? Would appreciate any oil filter info.tired of paying dealer 15$+ thanx

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Like the car very much, even though i've never gotten over 36 or 37 mpg. Bad driver!? Would appreciate any oil filter info.tired of paying dealer 15$+ thanx

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Maak, Thanks for the feedback. OLIVER

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Hi Oliver, Generally, I love the New Beetle. The combination of very good dynamics (low center of gravity, solid body, etc.) make for a fun ride. Despite what the reviews say about the back seat, it's still bigger than any Celica, Prelude, or any of the other "spo ty" cars out there. The power of the TDI is not blistering, but definitely entertaining, and the gas milage just seems to be that pleasant added componant which puts a smile on your face once every three weeks or so. Problems? STEERING. I've had mine looked at too damn many times for it to still be a niggling problem. The car either favors the left or the right. I've always had SAABs before, and they always were anchored to a straight path unless I actually wanted o turn. As soon as a reliable tuner shows up with upgrades to the front suspension, I'm there. The Pontiac Sunburn, I mean Sunbird that my dealer gave me while alledgedly getting to the bottom of this issue steered better! Otherwise, I love the car. PS. I read in Auto Motor und Sport that the v6 TDI is slated for the Audi A6. 35mpg in a substantial luxury sedan with some hope of performance is just plain cool.

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Do any of you know what's involved in adding a turbo to a normally aspirated VW 1.6L diesel? Do I have to find a doaner turbo from a VW TD or will an after market turbo system work? What about aftermarket exhaust systems for a turbo? Thanks.

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I will be the proud new owner of a 1998 Golf GL TD tomorrow. It is one of the last ones made before production ended on this model earlier this year. It has the 75 bhp 1.9 prechamber TD engine. It is "silver arrow", and was a dealer demo model. I gues this car is sort of a collector's item, since this model was a Canada-only version, because this engine, even with a catalyst, was too "dirty" to meet US EPA regs. I couldn't wait the extra four months for a new Golf TDI, so I figured this was the next est thing. Anything is better than my tired Jetta with 551 000 km on it. Happy dieseling!

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I will be the proud new owner of a 1998 Golf GL TD tomorrow. It is one of the last ones made before production ended on this model earlier this year. It has the 75 bhp 1.9 prechamber TD engine. It is "silver arrow", and was a dealer demo model. I gues this car is sort of a collector's item, since this model was a Canada-only version, because this engine, even with a catalyst, was to "dirty" to meet US EPA regs. I couldn't wait the extra four months for a new Golf TDI, so I figured this was the next b st thing. Anything is better than my tired Jetta with 551 000 km on it. Happy dieseling!

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Hi, The TDI vs GLX story posted on the 25th is the exact reason why I will never remove the TDI emblem from the grill. Should I actually seize the opportunity to surprise a GLX, I don't want him to soften his humility by thinking I've got a hopped up 2-li er. I want him to KNOW there was a little diesel glued to his tail. At high speeds, the GLX takes the prize. But at speeds under 45mph, I think the competition is pretty tight. Take Care, Scott

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my dealer is also telling me that we will get v6 tdi's, no the question is at what price... c.l.

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just so youall don't get confused, don't listen to that english boy, there are only 1.6 km's in a mile...

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just so youall don't get confused, don't listen to that english boy, there are only 1.6 km's in a mile...

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I have a discovery. My molding\holder on the passenger side seat is cracked when it is hardly ever used and nothing is put on it at all. It is a bad designe.

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Beer Belly, NB stands for New Beetle. You know, a Volkswagen.

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What is this "NB" that you'all are talking about?

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Maak, How do you like your NB ? Any problems? I orderd the NB 1.8T but I am giving the TDI very, very serious consideration. I would apprieciate your comments. Thanks. OLIVER

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Hi all, Just checked out a friend's NB with the adaptive 4-speed automatic transmission . Granted, he hasn't "taught" his car to make the best use of his available power, so that part is yet to be defined, but for now I've clearly got t e performance edge, and he's thinking, "Man! I should have learned to drive a stick!" This is a good friend and we made light of it, but let's face it, he spent something like $800 American for the slushbox. This goes a LONG way toward mitigating the approx. $1200 tdi charge that I had. At that point, which would you rather have? Anyway, it was fun to compare. On another note, I just topped off the car in Boston last week, drove down to Montauk, Long Island for 7 day's worth of cruisin' around, then drove home, and got two days into my 50 mile commute before that seldom heard "bing!" indicating that I had gone into reserve. You just gotta love the RANGE of this car. Consistently 46mpg, regardless of how I drive it.

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I have just completed 26,000 miles averaging 57 miles per gallon at 80-90 miles/hour (For those who do not know English ways, 1 mile = 2.2km and 1 gallon = 4.54 litres - you have to work it out!). I am so impressed with my golf that I have ordered the GT DI (110 bhp) which is faster and more efficient. Has anyone noticed how the perfomance seems to drop when a service is due ?

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Hi, guys, just thought I'd share an eye opening experience that I had recently. I was winding my way across town to my babysitter's and two blocks from there I pull in behind a GLX. All he could see of me was my front end so he must have thought "GL" wh n he saw me. We both slowed for pedestrians before making a right up a fairly steep hill. As he straightened out, he decided to show me what a VR6 is about and gunned it. I did the same. I almost hit him when he shifted and I had to shift (about 3500 PM). He probably wound his engine to 5000 RPM before shifting, therefore he wasn't using all of his available power. Second gear was much of the same, he never got more than 12 feet away from me and half way up the block he was looking hard in his rearv ew mirror for a VR6 badge in my grill but didn't see anything because I removed my front TDI badge on my second day of ownership. Oh, forgot to mention that he was by himself and I had my wife on board. Who says that diesels are slow?

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I'd like to here about some long life/ high odometer claims and if there were any major repairs along the way. So, who can claim the most miles without a rebuild, and why not add what oil you used. By repairs I mean things like; alternators, water pumps, uspension, etc... Come on boys and girls, time to brag. :)

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Just checking to see if any of you prospective TDI shoppers in the 'Vegas, L.A., San Bernardino, or San Diego area are getting ready to upgrade from your current Golf/Rabbit/Jetta diesel to a TDI. I'm looking for a Golf/Rabbit/Jetta diesel, so if you're r ady to sell, let me know. Please, no basket cases or restoration projects. Thanks.

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I'm having an issue with my pass. side front power window. Sometimes it just stops responding; neither the driver or passenger switch do anything, nor does the key operated window open/close feature. Then, after a short time, maybe an hour, it works again It almost seems like a overload sensor gets tripped, then resets itself. I've taken both front switches out and jiggled wires, etc. When this condition occurs, I've even taken out the rear switch and swapped it with the front. pass. switch and it still d dn't work. Any ideas anyone? Jim '96 Passat TDI

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Regarding the Smartmoney Article. VW is committed to the diesel in the U.S.A. At least that is what VW Germany has been telling me. The reason we have not seen the new Passat TDI is EXTREMELY high demand for TDI engines in Europe. They can't keep up even with the two additional engine lants in Hungary and Slovakia that just came on line this past year. VW Germany said they expect to be shipping the new Passat TDI 6 cylinder TDI to the USA by June of 1999. My dealership, who has only sold VWs since 1959 independently confirmed this. o, things look good. That particular dealer has been selling TDIs on almost an equal basis with Gas engines. There are alot of people that commute to Boston or the 128 Hi tech area which means they are driving over 130 miles per day 5 days a week. Also, they have several Passat TDIs with over 150K,,yes 150K ...so far. absolutely no problems,,,just change the filters, oil and your timing belt...especially your timing belt @ 60K. Happy TDiiing

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Is VW planning to market the Passat TDI in the USA again? Where did Smartmoney find a 98 Passat TDI to test if this car is not available in the USA?

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Don’t be too concerned about emissions while you let your TDI idle for a few minutes a day. When I mentioned your concerns to my brother-in-law, he told me that he goes through 6000 gallons of Jet-A fuel anytime he trims the engines in a DC-10 jetliner ( to 6 hour process). For those claiming 50MPG, that means 300,000 miles of driving blown in a single work shift! On other related issues, I mentioned Synthetic oils to him. His opinion (and that’s all that it is) is that synthetic oils may not be as ood as mineral oils for internal combustion engines. He believes that the mixture of combustion byproducts with synthetic oils causes more acids than in a mineral oil. These acids tend to cause corrosion and pitting of engine parts. He mentioned that a good oil filtering system would take care of that concern, but such filtering systems can be expensive. He says nothing beats a synthetic oil for hot applications where the oil does not come in contact with combustion gases, like in a hot and high rev ing jet engine, where a mineral oil would cook.

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Jerry, the valve in the oil filter has nothing to do with the oil pressure in the engine. That is controlled by a separate valve within the engine. The valve in the filter only controls the bypassing of the filter should it become clogged. Good luck on fixing that rear main seal.

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To Mr. James Berry I'm sorry to hear about your bad luck. In the U.S.A. our cars come with a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, in which your engine is covered. Also if VW did the repair work when the timing belt broke they probably will cover this as they normally give 12,000 mile warranty on a repair job. If nether one of the above will work and your vw shop manager will give you no satifaction, then ask the shop manager to contact a VW technical representative (tech. rep.) and see if they will help you. Also tell th m that there is a few thousand people that monitor the Fred's TDI web site that are very interested in what VW is going to do to help you. Most of the time a large car manufacturer,like Volkswagen wants you to be happy and will really go out of their way o see that you are satisfied with your car so that you'll buy another one and also tell your friends to purchase one (word of mouth advertisement). I hope maybe that this will help. Please keep everyone informed as to what is happing with your problem. best regard; J. Pope

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Check it out, the Jetta TDI was named the best new car under $18,000 by SmartMoney magazine. The Passat TDI also appears in the Best Car ranking. http://www.smartmoney.com/ac/autos/newcars/index.cfm?story=below18000

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On my '85 JD, there are two end oil pan bolts that are right near the transmission housing, and are extremely hard to get at to torque properly. Does anyone know what sort of method or tool should be used to torque them? I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm ocket and 6" extension, but that's all I could do so far. Thanks for any help!

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Biodiesel... Here are 2 messages I received from some biodeisel people.

The first is from a memeber of the National Biodiesel Board (Bev Thessen) -
Biodiesel and biodiesel blends have excellent solvent properties. Over time, biodiesel will soften and degrade certain types of elastomers (rubber replacement) and natural rubber compounds. Precautions are needed when using high percent blends to ensure that the existing fueling system components (primarily fuel hoses and fuel pump seals) do not contain elastomer compounds incompatible with biodiesel. Manufacturers recommend that natural or butyl rubbers not be allowed to come in contact with pure biodiesel. Biodiesel will lead to degradation of these materials. If a fuel system does contain these materials and user's wish to fuel with pure biodiesel, replacement with compatible elastomers such as Viton B (Viton is a registered trademark of DuPont Dow Elastomers) is recommended. The recent switch to low sulfur diesel fuel has caused many original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) to switch to components suitable for use with biodiesel, but users should contact their OEM for specific information. If you wish, you may contact Mr. Stuart Johnson at Volkswagen (810) 340-5000 for further information. Please note that VW vehicles utilize materials that are compatible with biodiesel. Currently, the National Biodiesel Board has 7 registered fuel suppliers: 1. Ag Environmental Products (800) 599-9209 2. Chemol Company (336) 333-3071 3. NOPEC Corporation (941) 683-7199 4. Columbus Foods Company (773) 265-6500 5. Pacific Biodiesel (808) 871-5631 6. Twin Rivers Technologies (617) 472-9200 7. Hydrocarbon Processing (713) 953-7575 Soy-derived diesel fuel additives such as SoyShield, SoyGuard, and SoyGold, can be purchased from Schaeffer Manufacturing (800) 325-9962, Archer Petroleum (800) 221-7017, and Ag Environmental at (800) 599-9209, respectively.

The second is from Matt Rehberg at NOPEC -
It is well documented that the first noticeable decrease of emissions occurs near a 20% blend of biodiesel, or B20. Moreover, biodiesel's best attribute is its ability of reducing particulate matter, where further decreases of particulate can be gained with an increasing blend of the biodiesel portion. I am currently in charge of establishing and facilitating relationships with our distributors, both for small package distribution and for bulk sales into fleet applications. If you are interested in the purchase or distribution of our pre-packaged products, I have recently out-sourced that piece of our business to Precision Packaging Corporation. They can be reached at (941) 688-3944 or via email at ppc@nopec.com. They can provide you with pricing and availability of our ½-gallon, 2 ½-gallon, and 5-gallon containers, as well as 55-gallon drums. If you have other questions, please use the following contact information: Matt Rehberg Director of Sales and Marketing NOPEC Corporation 1248 George Jenkins Lakeland, FL 33815 USA Phone: 941-683-7199 x.113 Fax: 941-683-1058 Email: MattR@nopec.com Web: www.nopec.com

It's a long post, but I hope it's interesting...D'nardo

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Unfortunaatly tonight my baby suffered a major oil leak towards the rear of the engine dropping nearly the entire crankcase. It was only by pure luck that I saw what was on the ground. Another problem is that I'm out warranty by only 2300 km. It was just 6500 kms. ago that the timing belt was toast. The only other thing that I can possibly think cause a problem is the Mann oil filter (part #940/25). If there is anyone out there that has any info as to whether this is correct could you post the answer on the board?? I can only hope that the valve is the right rating. Is there anyone out there that has had a similar challenge??

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Unfortunaatly tonight my baby suffered a major oil leak towards the rear of the engine dropping nearly the entire crankcase. It was only by pure luck that I saw what was on the ground. Another problem is that I'm out warranty by only 2300 km. It was just 6500 kms. ago that the timing belt was toast. The only other thing that I can possibly think cause a problem is the Mann oil filter (part #940/25). If there is anyone out there that has any info as to whether this is correct could you post the answer on the board?? I can only hope that the valve is the right rating. Is there anyone out there that has had a similar challenge??

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Unfortunaatly tonight my baby suffered a major oil leak towards the rear of the engine dropping nearly the entire crankcase. It was only by pure luck that I saw what was on the ground. Another problem is that I'm out warranty by only 2300 km. It was just 6500 kms. ago that the timing belt was toast. The only other thing that I can possibly think cause a problem is the Mann oil filter (part #940/25). If there is anyone out there that has any info as to whether this is correct could you post the answer on the board?? I can only hope that the valve is the right rating. Is there anyone out there that has had a similar challenge??

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If there is someone out there that has had a catastrophic oil leak towards the rear of the engine perhaps involving an oil line to the turbo would you list a comment here? My car has just 42300 kms. and is just out of warranty.Unfortunatly about 6000 kms ago I blew the timing belt which was covered (whew!!!) .I can only hope that the Mann oil filter that had the correct relief valve in place. I think the part no. is 940/25 for all tdi's. D es anyone have the poop as to the correctness of this information? I will of course keep everyone apprised. Knowledge is power to us all.

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further to the notes on biodiesel, there is research underway in canada, generally dealing with biodiesel fuels. some work is geared for industrial use (mining), and then some general research for the oil seed growers. here i saskatoon the research has be n geared to demonstrate the practical applications of methyl ester canola as an additive for diesel engines, several seasons of testing has shown that there are significant benefits to adding bio souurce to diesel fuel. 1; the bio fuel acts as a lubricant for the injection pump offsetting some of the lost lubricity from the sulphur no longer present in the fuel, 2; reduced engine wear, 3; reduced emmissions, 4; smells like french fries. if you want more information contact the univeristy of Saskatchewan, echanical engineering dept and ask for P.B.Hertz, or email him at (p_barry_hertz@engr.usask.ca)

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The Best Car I have at yet I never thout that diesel could be so fast and performant I love my car

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Don't have much to add, except I've got 41K on the car, at present, and no problems. Get 50 MPG avg. My Rabbitt (82 VW) had 310K on it when I finally retired it.

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Hi, I guess I may have a mileage claim worthy of mentioning. I drove 647 miles from Cape Cod, MA to Newport News, VA on 12.288 gallons (no stops for gas). That computes to 52.65 mpg. About 450 of those miles were with the AC on. Otherwise, I'm sure I woul 've done better. Now, before the skeptics jump in, here are the conditions: The tank was absolutely topped off, no foam or bubbles, right to the rim of the filler at each fill up (for consistancy); I drove the speed limit, PERIOD; The car had about 475 lb of passenger/cargo; and I used the cruise control 90% of the time. All miles are statute (5280 feet) and all gallons are US, not Imperial. There were a few places where traffic prohibited cruise, but most of the time it was easy driving. I achieved nearl the same results under the same conditions on the return trip. This is the first long distance test I've been able to do with a car that wasn't breaking in or running on winterized fuel. I'm hoping to do a "no AC" test this fall. Maybe I can make 55 mpg. Happy TDIing!!!

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Hello all, Does anyone change the oil at 3000 miles in their TDI? Or is 5000 mi. the standard? Also, I dont seem to be getting the Range per tank as advertised with the TDI's tank capacity (I think its 650 or 700Mi at 50 mpg). Although I dont run it till he tank is empty---I refill it when its in the reserve area---I estimate I can go 575-600 mi per tank. I do consistently calculate fuel mileage of 49-50 mpg however. Is this possibly due to the diesel fuel pump at the service station shutting off before t e tank is completely full? Thank you for your input. ------Terry

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My VW parts supplier confirms that there are two different numbers for the tanks in the sedan and wagon. I now am curious to see how they physically differ and if substitution is possible. When I get 55 mpg at 55 mph I'm burning fuel at a rate of one gph Compare that with the idle rate of 1/2 gph (granted that is at -30C and is not direct injected). I shut off the (warmed up) engine when it appears that I will not be moving for 30 seconds or more. Environmental concerns are only a portion for this decisi n to shut down. The fuel savings are not great, but do accumulate over the course of a tank full. Long term effects on the starter and charging system? I don't know yet. I've only just turned 60,000 miles on this car. My previous (gasoline) car went 264,0 0 miles on one battery and the original starter in 6 years of the same habit. I don't believe that this one time battery replacement indicates any harm to the electrical systems.

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Do not let any engine - let alone the most thermally efficient TDi - warm up by idling. You only need to let the oil pressure build up and rev it gently to help charge the battery (avoiding use of high-current auxilliaries) bearing in mind how much the glow-plugs drain the battery. Then start rolling - treat evey cold start as a 'break-in'. So long as the engine stays cold, engine wear will be disproportionately high. But, the harder you drive it when cold, the more you suffer the effects of fuel dilution - this is much worse for gas engines which are set at rich mixtures when cold and the petrol 'washes' off the oil. In contrast, diesels are known as 'oil burners' - I guess there must be less incompatibility between diesel/lubricating oil and gas/lubricating oil. Also I guess that low sulpur derv will mean less build up of corrosive acids in the presence of condensation. According to the Mobil website, periods of extended idling come under 'severe service'. I've seen a transit DI van sit idling for ages after a run and the temperature stayed just beyond the blue strip - which must be testimony to how little fuel is burnt during idling. But I would say this is not so bad for short periods in cold weather when weighed against stop-starting. Besides the idling sound and vibration of a warmed through diesel always sounds reassuring to me.

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I am very new to this page but after reading some of the pages I realised some of problems with TDI were not restricted to Ghana alone.But onwer in the States face some of my problems. Especially concerning which type of engine oil to use.I will send a mo e detail backgorund anout me and my car the kind of problem I face with it.If anyone has some good ideas to share or what some info about TDI's in Ghana. Can send e-mail. William Ofori,

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A month or so ago, some of you had some questions about biodiesel. The Sept-Oct. "Utne Reader" has an article (p. 96) from the May 1998 "Shift" magazine (apparently a Candadian publication)about a couple who drove a diesel Winebago 10,000 miles across th U.S. almost solely on homemade biodiesel--they used old fryer oil from restaurants along the route as the main ingredient. Anyway, they even include a recipe for biodiesel that makes biodiesel with a glycerin/soap byproduct. Sounds pretty interesting. It says for more info, go to their website www.veggievan.org and says you can order their book "From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank" by calling 1-800-BOOK-LOG.

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About Diesel engine warmup and idling. I don't have a TDI but i've been running VW Diesel for 12 years now . In Canadian winter upthere i let it warmup 5 min on a very cold morning and had let it idle a lot in winter in the past but a few things must be considered about this practice : -Environmental consideration ( running at idle for a long time ) -Diesel engine don't warm up as fast at idle than pulling because there more fuel efficient ( less heat wasted ) -Legal aspect ( letting the key in the ignition with the engine running ) even if the doors are locked could bring you a fine or encourage a thief. -Leaving the car unattended and engine running could cost you a new engine if something goes wrong with the engine ( burst coolant hose, thermo fan failling to work, oil light comming on ) I've overcomed most of these consideration by rigging an electronic circuit to the ignition that let the engine run without the key in the ignition enabling the steering wheel to be locked & a safety switch on clutch pedal that kill the engine ( thief pro ected ), with added protection that if there is an overheat/coolant/oil problem the engine shut off . I've used this setup for 12 year now while i was doing delivery & service calls at customers home, even let run the engine 8 hour in a row on a very cold day -30 celsius ( half idle/half road ).Fuel consumption at idle is 2 liters/hour 1/2 gallon/hour Did not had any mechanical problem because of idling . But now i'm more aware of the environment factor and try to reduce unneccessary idling . Happy TDIing

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I have recently purchased a 96 TDI Passat Wagon with over 92,000 miles on it that is in excellent condition. It is sound in every way - what a car! I read a message from Mike of Oxford, MA posted on 9/9 which indicated a fuel capacity of 26 gallons in t e wagon achieved by manipulating the fuel vent release - he is absolutely correct in his assessment! On a different note, a few questions to ask of Fred's frequent follower's: (1) does anyone have any knowledge of consumption of diesel fuel at idle of the TDI engine running the A/C compressor? (2) any feedback as to the ability of this engine to cope w th extended periods at idle? I am from the school of thought that believes it is better to run the engine at idle for short periods than to shut it down just to re-start within a few minuets. I regularly carry a spare key and lock the car while running to mail a letter etc. (3) Would be interested to hear from people that have run these cars with mega miles to get a feel for repair needs with excessive use. Thanks to one and all!

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I have a very annoying rattle in the rear view mirror and dashboard at cold iddling and driving on rough roads. Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it?

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My car rev's up when I start it WITHOUT the A\C on does any one know why:)????

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Was on the Carousel motors web site and tried to download the technical Information on the New Beetle. Well I can not get the Adobie thing to work. Thre are two of intrest the glow plug relay 97-98-04 and a fuse holder 97-98-02. Does anyone outhere know w at is up with these. Thanks Bob Shope

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To Jerry in Hagerstown: Wetterauer\US - www.chip-tuning.com

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To Jerry in Hagerstown: Wetterauer\US - www.chip-tuning.com

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Would someone who owns a Robert Bentley, Volkswagen Jetta, Golf, GTI, Cabrio Service Manual: 1993-1997; ISBN 0-8376-0365-X, (Volkswagen Part no. LPV 800 115), tell me if it covers the Turbo Direct Injection Diesel model cars. Thanks in advance.

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With regard to the gentleman with the $2525 "injector unit" failure. I amsume the dealer is talking about the Bosch injection pump.If so make sure you ask if that price is with or without a rebuildable core. You could consider taking the pump to a quality rebuilder who may be able to replace the sensor and recalibrate for less money. Finally it never hurts to BITCH as someone may remember about a "secret" warranty. Note above comments assume you trust the original diagnosis. This may be an instance where a second opinion is warranted no pun intended.

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You can remove the plastic cover, but I doubt it will make a difference, since my Jetta doesn't have the same vibration.

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Is the plastic shield over the engine soley used for sound dampening? Or is it also used to direct air flow down across the turbo while driving? The reason why I am asking, is my Jetta has a vibration at 2400 RPMs. I'd like to remove the shield and dri e it for a while to see if that might be the cause of the harmonic. But if it is used for air redirecting, then I may need to think of some other way to dampen this minor annoyance.

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I have a rare flaw not easily detectable with the diagnosis instrumental that VW provides to dealers. Actually, in the VW workshops I couldn't solve this problem and wasted much money trying to fix up this damage. Description: The car coughs SOMETIMES, NOT ALWAYS. So it is a sporadic (eventual) flaw, that happens specially over +/-3000 rpm, and when demanding strong acceleration. I insist SOMETIMES,NOT ALWAYS. Sometimes a pair of coughs, and sometimes as if it caug t a cold. All the mechanical parts seems to be OK. Apparently, this abnormally seems to have an electronic origin. Can anybody give me a hint or some tips?

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looking for the wetter chip home page

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TDI's rule. Great fuel economy + quick enough.

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No, but you can just leave the "pan" off!

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Has anyone put a remote mount oil filter on to keep from having to remover the pan just to get at the filter?

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Greetings to one and all. It just so happened that the "check engine light" engaged as a result of low fuel. Upon taking the Passat to the nearest VW dealer for a check, another code error was discovered, namely, the "fuel temperature sensor" in the inj ctor unit. I was told that if indeed this was the problem, the sensor itself could not be replaced individually, but the entire injector unit (at the dealer cost of $2525) would have to be replaced. Unfortunately, VW does not consider this to be a part f the emissions system, warranteed by most US manufacturers at 50K or less. If anyone else encounters a similar problem, let me know. I have 48K on the Passat thus far.

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A word of caution for those considering synthetic oils: Once you put them in your vehicle you may not want to switch back to a mineral oil. Reason being synthetic oils tend to make gaskets and seals swell. A reversal from synthetic to mineral may cause them to shrink back resulting on oil leaks.

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I just read on a MOBIL DELVAC website that the oil change interval for big rigs using their synthetic with mostly highway miles is 100,000 miles. The question is how do we correspond this number to our TDI's?

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Has anyone out there changed their own serpentine belt? Mine is showing wear, but the only thing that scares me about changing it is the tensioner. I'm not sure if I need special tools or what...

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Darren, you're absolutely right. I just spoke to my brother who is an owner-op of a Peterbilt. He told me that redline's about 2200 RPM and he typically sees 1500-1800 RPM on the freeway. Yes, the big trucks run mostly highway mileage. Yes, they have arge oil capacities, also. They also are run just about all day (used to bother me when I'd see a driver back his turbo truck into a dock and just shut down as soon as he sets the airbrake). These motors still have a much more difficult life than our mo ors. Granted they're built to last a million miles (the turbos are the size of a good watermelon) but the oil should be pushed about as hard as in our cars don't you think?

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Ric- I totally agree. I just found it odd that my average mpg with Valvoline All Fleet ran about 48-51 and boom, 56 with Delvac 1. In terms of trailing winds- The route from Denver to Montana is primarily North South and most of the wind you see is a ross wind. Who knows- I was just suprised to see 56 mpg. ZDK

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Regarding the thread on oil, I for one, am enjoying learning about this issue. So all you lubrication engineers have at least one attentive listener ;)

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First an update: VW of North America, after much discussion, has agreed to re-align my Jetta, even though it is not covered by warranty. As for extended drain intervals in those big rigs, let's not forget that 1. They typically turn fewer RPMS than even ur TDIs, 2. Most miles (in excess of 90%) are highway miles, and 3. They usually hold over 10 gallons of oil. And one more thing, they typically have two rather large oil filters.

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This message is for Zach: There is no way you can conclude anything from one tankful with each brand of oil. Ten tankfuls each, maybe. Have you considered that maybe the prevailing winds were from the south, helping your MPG when you left and hurting you on the way back?

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Hello TDI fans, thought I would post notice that there is a used 1997 Passat TDI with 19K miles at a dealer in Long Beach, CA named Circle Imports (they are a VW-Porche dealer) (800) 675-2472 or (562) 597-3663. Ask for Norm and tell him you got it from me on the internet (there is nothing in it for me, just a good gesture from a real TDI fan). I personally saw and took for a test drive, it's real clean, no alloys, power windows, premium sound sys. w/CD changer, no glove box (I was floored when I noticed t is), moon roof, kinda pulls a little to the right from either slight misalignment or radial pull, runs sweet (engine is looser than my Jetta TDI because I only have 6300 miles), I know they had this vehicle for a while and the past owner just traded it in on a new $80k Porsch I would offer $17K to $18K and run if you can, blue books for about $21K+. Hope this helps someone become a TDI'er. Regards, LH

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Oops, Mobil's website for Delvac 1 is what I meant.

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Sorry Mike, but I had to put in my 2 cents. I've always been under the impression that 100%synthetics, as opposed to synthetic blends, can have extended drain intervals. Synthoil from many years ago reccommended that you only replace your filter and top off your engine every 3k and drain the sump after 50k or so miles. On the mobil website, they quote truck fleets having 60k drain intervals, and don't trucks (eighteen wheelers) pulling 50 or so tons strain their engines more than we ever could in our li tle cars? Has anybody modified their airboxes for better breathing? I have, and I reccommend that anyone contemplating doing it consider what he's about to do. Don't remove the screen that sits in front of the mass airflow sensor as this "combs" the air to provid more consistant readings by the MAS. Do remove the fine screen on the cold air intake to give a bit more cold air to the intake charge.

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Hello All- Sorry Mike, but I have to add one more bit of info on OIL. I just switched oil after a 720 mile trip from Denver to Bozeman Montana. The trip up to bozeman got me 50.1 miles to the gallon. I switched to Mobile Delvac 1 (which is synthetic a d meets all diesel oil reqmts including cg-4 and cf-4) and on the return trip I got 56 miles to the gallon. Same conditions and the same heavy foot on the throttle. Delvac 1 is good for 5000 + miles between changes. My dealer doesn't have a clue. The ervice guy says you can put anything in the engine you want.

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Incase any of you haven't noticed (referening the the earlier message in French) I do have some scans of a couple German magazines that have info on the 115hp engine the person was refering to. I haven't had a chance to translate any of it yet, but I'll et to it...one of these days:)

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ENOUGH ABOUT OIL!! HOW BOUT'SOME FUN STORIES ABOUT HOW GREAT YOUR TDI PERFORMED...AND SO ON!!! ....MIKE.....OUT P.S. (we have enough oil problems in this country with SLICK WILLY!)

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With apologies for mis-translation, and for the benefit of those that do not read French, I offer the following in English (or American-english); "I don't know if you are aware, but VW is going to introduce, in three months, a new version of the TDi with 115 HP. The first versions have already been seen throughout europe since summer. For example: with the 115 TDi motor, the Passat (the first to be available with this motor) has the same performance as a Golf 110 TDi, all the while consuming less than the Passat 110 TDi. It's too bad that in Canada and the United States, you won't have all the production of diesels." I infer from this last sentence hat, once again, the B5 Passat will not be available in TDi form in North America. M@RD@!

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Je ne sais pas si tu es au courant mais VW va sortir dans trois mois une nouvelle version du TDI porté à 115 CV DIN. Les premiers essais sont déjà connus dans toute l'europe depuis l'été. Par exemple avec le moteur TDI 115 la Passat ( qui sera la premièr à avoir le moteur ) a les mêmes performances qu'une Golf TDI 110 tout en consommant moins que la Passat TDI 110. Quelle dommage qu'au Canada et aux Etats-Unis vous n'ayez pas toute la production des diesels

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More comments on the mini FAQ. In the UK there shouldn't be any problems with lubricity of ultra low sulphur derv which is currently marketed by Greenenergy and called 'City Diesel'. The last I heard this was the only fuel that had guaranteed lubricity values and scar tests showed it was better than all it's competitors. It's difficult to make comparisons with other countries because of the way sulphur has been repeatedly slashed - 'ultra low' sulphur derv has the transparency close to water, whilst the older stuff looks yellow. The benefits are also in reduced particulate emissions. Importantly sulphur poisons catalytic converters - hence when ultra low sulphur derv is standard will we be able to make more serious in-roads into reducing NOx emissions. I would have thought it would be better for engines too - less sulphurous corrosive compounds building up. Mobil 1 does have a VAG approval, I've heard via Mobil. One reason it doesn't feature in the manuals and dealers don't like it is because it is 0W rated - the problem appears to be poor recognition factor, as so few oils have this (superior) rating. Peugeot and Citroen (PSA) up until recently have not made TDi's, only indirect injection (IDI) diesels with mechanical injection But that's changing with their 'HDI' engine ('high pressure direct injection') which will be a real competitor to VAG offerings in the UK. This is based on their old 1905cc IDI XUD engine which has been all-pervasive in Europe. It has an 'olde worlde' charm, can be amazingly refined and I sometimes miss it! Renault recently offered a DI engine based on their old IDI, they have a reputation for being noisy. Vauxhall (GM) offers a nice TDi engine which gives 150 ft lbs of torque at an amazing 1600rpm - this is a high-tech diesel with 16 valves and centrally positioned injectors. Mercedes I believe have a 3 litre 6 cyl. DI - a real gutsy beast, BMW have DI's promised for the new 3 series, and the pressure on Ford to produce a DI must be intense - I heard their will be one for the new Focus which replaces the Escort. The message of all this is that gas engines have benefited over the years from remarkable development, whilst diesel engines have little changed from their origins in commercial vehicles. Now at last we are beginning to see the pay-off from the greater scope for diesel engine development.

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After reading several other comments about the recommended oil from VW. I called customer service and was informed that CG in Pennzoil, Mobil, and Castrol. Was ok but nothing on the viscosity. I also called all 5 dealers in the houston area as well as VW o see what was in the engine now so I could add some to match. not one of them knew what was in it. And all 5 dealers use different brands as well as different viscosity. Several did not use any that were ok at customer relations. I also asked that if I c oose to use something not available at the dealership would I be reimbursed for the cost. I was told that would be something that I would have to discuss with my service rep. We know the answer to that! So I am still looking for a good recommended oil for my car. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also there is a good document on oil at http://www-pal.usc.edu/~jan/vw/FAQs/faq.oil

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There was a previous post that no major manufactur has endorst a full sythetic. Well cat just did there full synthetic 5w-40 cg-4 Part# gal. 141-3339 aviable at your Cat Dealer. I am running this in my New Beetle. Have ran synthetic in all my small diesel engines since 1981. Never saw a ring problem.

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3,000 miles? Sounds like you have been paying too much attention to the quickie lube shops that have been duping the public into unnecessarily frequent oil changes. 10,000 miles is just fine for quality Long Life oils such as Shell Rotella.

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ENGINE OIL: I've been a licensed aircraft mechanic for 23 years and have taught aircraft powerplants for the pass 5 years at the best aircraft technical school in the USA (see visit me above for pertinent details). I use full synthetic engine oil in all m gasoline cars & equipment and in my oldest sons 1998 Jetta Wolfburg, but not in my TDI. Why may you ask? A few years ago Mobil came out with a Full synthetic engine oil for reciprocating aircraft engines called Mobil AV-1. It was modeled after their popu ar Mobil 1 automobile oil. This product caused havoc in the aviation piston engine market. Avgas still has tetraethyl lead in it and it was found that full synthetic oil could not keep the top compression ring and it's groove clean of deposit formations nd this in turn caused the ring to stick which will cause the cylinder to fail in short order. This started to happen around 700 - 900 hours of engine operation. After I bought my Jetta TDI I was leery to what kind of engine oil to use. After studying th web and also talking to the diesel and heavy equipment instructors at my technical school, I found that not a single one of the diesel engine manufactures ie.. caterpillar, cummins, mack, john-deere, ...etc... to have given their blessing to use of full ynthetic engine oil. The reason is the same as what happen in the Mobil AV-1 aviation problem, full synthetics do not solubilize additives or combustion by-products as effectively as minerial oil does. With full synthetics there is no way to keep clean th piston crown land and the ring belt area. This will of course lead to ring sticking. The current standard for four stroke diesel engines is CG-4. As a user of full synthetic engine oil for many years in my gasoline powered stuff and on working on gas-tur ine powered aircraft I would love to use it in my TDI, but not until the Engine manufactures give their blessing and the lubrication engineers fix the ring belt area cleaning problem. What do I use? Shell Rotella T 15W-40. It is the best and you can get t at Wall-Mart cheap. I change it every 3,000 miles and use vw filters ($8.00) and drain plug gaskets ($.30) Is there any lubrication engineers that read this web site that can shed and more light on this subject?

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no

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After I drive down a dirt road, my brakes make a horrible squeeling sound for about 5 miles after I get back on the main hiway. I assume it's either dust or small pebbles on the upper edge of the pads since the calipers are at 10 and 2 O'clock. Has anyo e else had this problem?

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Nice to see there are some other 'diesel heads' around. Can anyone help me in my quest to get 150+bhp from the 110bhp TDI engine I'm about to buy? I don't need advice on chips, I'm having one mapped to the engine when modifications are completed (gas flowing, balancing etc.).

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i have found that valvoline all fleet meets the diesel specs. it runs around 1.25 a qt its a real good oil...

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Re Gary M, and the exhaust question, check with Techtonics in Sheridan Oregon, I have used their stuff on gas engines, most of the things you would do to a gas engine are also applicable to diesel; namely freer breathiung exhaust. at some point the noise olice will come looking for you, if you get carried away. c.l

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Does anyone know if some of the new "free flow" exhaust systems would be of any benefit to the TDI ??? Power, fuel economy (like we need it), etc??? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Gary

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It may be possible to reset the "Check Engine Light" by disconnecting one of the battery cables for a few minutes. I have done this on other cars.

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Help! Is there a way to manually reset the "Check Engine" amber light? Alas, I allowed the fuel supply to get into the "fume" stage, and from previous experience, this engages the check engine light. Given that the nearest VW dealer is 150 miles away ( 00 round-trip), I hope a manual reset is possible. If anyone has a suggestion, please let me know. Thanks in advance for any help!

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Does anyone know where I can buy a TDI Oscar Mayer WeinerMobile?

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My wife took in our TDI for its 5000 mile service today, and I'm just about had it with our dealer. First, they used Castrol 20W-50 (forget your personal opinions about the oil, it's not certified for diesels), claiming that VW recommended the brand and eight. When asked for documentation proving such a claim, they could provide none. After I was informed of this, I called VW of America where they informed me that they were currently recommending CG-4 certified oil(Castrol is not). The dealer will get an earful from me tomorrow. Also, I infromed the dealer of off center steering present since delivery of the vehicle. They claimed it was an alignment problem and would cost US$60 to correct. VW of America stated that it will attempt to resolve these d sputes. My advice is that, 1. When taking your car for service, watch the tecnician like a hawk, and 2. If not satisfied, call VW of America. If enough people call, they will be compelled to respond.

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This is not to be construed as an endorsement. This is only the opinion of one user of the product. Mobil 1 "meets ILSAC GF-2 and GM 4718M ... specifications", "exceeds API Service SJ,SH/CF warranty requirements for gasoline and diesel engines as well as uropean ACEA and Japanese valve train wear requirements", offers "outstanding protection for gasoline, diesel and turbocharged car engines" It is also available in 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-40 weights which carry the "energy conserving" logo. The information in t e quotations is available for review on the back side of the bottle. 'NUFF SAID!

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How do I fill my transmission fluid? GO T.D.I.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

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Hi I'm new to the page. I just had a question. Every time I shift, my RPMs drop. Can anyone figure this out?

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Hi, I have an off-the-wall question: I recently purchased a laptop and I've been having a blast finding all the neat little things that can be done outside the home, such as GPS navigating with Rand McNally's Trip Maker Deluxe and tracking satellites (ham radio stuff). Then I saw an article in VWT about CARCOMP's VWTool and OBDTool software for diagnosing OBDII cars. The VWTool emulates the VAG1551/2 software. While my car is too new to just run out and get the software, I'm still curious. Has anyone used his software? CARCOMP's creator, John Grable, is unsure whether it will work with diesel cars, especially OBDTool. Which is better... OBDTool or VWTool? There's a big price difference! John says VW owners can do so much more with VWTool. I hear the factor manual is required to get the most out of these programs. Has Robert Bentley published a book for the Jetta TDI yet? Thanks for tolerating my longwindedness. Scott

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Aloha everyone. Regarding the fill-up procedure, I always "burp" the fuel filler tube 3 or 4 times by replacing the cap thus allowing the fuel tank to re-pressurize. If you listen carefully after replacing the fuel filler cap, you can hear the fuel draining down into the tank. Believe me you can get an extra 1-1.5 gals into the car using this method. I have never heard of this fuel filler tube relief valve. There is a black rubber stopper which seems to interact with the outside fuel door..is this what you're talking about?

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I've been trying to buy a Passat TDI over the last 2 years and I was unsuccesful. Is there a secret in doing that or is just a continuous shortage of these cars. I think I am going besark looking for a Passat TDI at every VW dealer I encounter.

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Hi TDI fans! First a disclaimer, all my information applies only to the North American market. In my opinion the Europeans have a better system of rating oils and avoids a lot of the confusion over which oil to use in a diesel engine. I know a little why the diesel ratings disappeared from most motor oil. It's a conspiracy by those guys over at ILSAC! ILSAC stands for the International lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee. ILSAC is an American/Japan concern with the GF-1, G -2, and new for late 1999 GF-3 oil ratings. ILSAC ratings are for gasoline engines only. The priority of the ILSAC specifications is to have the oil stay as thin as possible to reduce the internal friction of the engine. This is why only 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils are the only ones that carry the ILSAC ratings and have that "Energy Conserving II" wording stated somewhere in the API donut logo. Most Europeans have no idea what an API donut logo is as most North Americans never heard of VW 505.00, CCMC, or ACEA. Diesel soot contamination causes the oil to thicken and not stay in the proper viscosity grade long enough to pass the ILSAC tests. Diesel oil chemistry is formulated to keep the soot suspended in the oil so it drains out and not stick to engine parts. So that is why diesel oils do not carry any ILSAC ratings and any oil that carries an ILSAC rating will never have a current diesel rating, even though I have seen some ILSAC rated oils carry an API CD or CF diesel rating. This is also the reason most diesel oils only come in a 15W-40 viscosity. In the old days before ILSAC, the API common rating for both gasoline and diesel engines was SG and CD. Then ILSAC came out with GF-1 so the API came out with SH. When ILSAC came out with GF-2, API came out with SJ. I guess this means when ILSAC comes out with GF-3, the API will call its equivalent rating SK. A diesel oil can carry API SH/SJ ratings, but that does not mean the oil meets ILSAC ratings. Now I can explain how API diesel oil ratings work. As of of 1996 the API decreed that the CD rating is too obsolete and cannot be used on the labels of motor oil used in gasoline engines. So that is why the CD rating is missing. The next step up is API CF, right? Wrong! What happened was the API specialized the CF oil ratings for all the dif erent kinds of diesel engines. API CF is for four-stroke IDI diesel engines and four & two-stroke off-road diesel engines that use high sulfur fuel, CF-II is for large two stroke locomotive and marine diesels that use very high sulfur fuel as diesel # 4, nd CF-4 is for on-road four-stroke DI diesel engines that burn low sulfur # 2 fuel (that's us!). API CG-4 is the next higher rating above CF-4 and late this year the new CH-4 rating is suppose to come out. So what is the proper North American API rated oil to use in a VW TDI engine? The CF-4/CG-4/CH-4 oils are the proper oils to use in North America. Our North American VW owner's manuals still state for us to use API CD. This is because when the VW 505.00 specification was first written up, API CD was the closest diesel rating in North America. All API SH/SJ oils are a better grade than CD, but those atings are not better for a diesel engine than CF-4/CG-4/CH-4. This is why VoA can say any oil is OK to use in its TDI engine and why dealers will use anything. As was stated in an earlier post, VAG finally upgraded its specifications for its VW 501/505.00 diesel oil ratings and calls the new oil VW 502.00. This new rating has been under development for a few years with the new European ACEA ratings. In the ACEA ratings system, VW 502.00 is called B4-98. Now we have to wait and see which API g ade VAG says we can use. Our owner's manuals are written in Europe and the 1999 manuals were written months ago so we will have to wait another year for VAG to edit the motor oil section for the North American market. I know this still seems confusing but the information has been very slow coming out. If and when I find out more I'll pass it along. Have a good weekend TDI fans.

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RE: OIL, Had dealer do 5k mile oil change two saturdays ago. According to vw owners manual they overfilled by approx. 4-5 mm over crosshatch pattern on dipstick. Was able to have them check it this past monday and they said it was fine(?). It was down alittle bit but that was probably due the engine burning it off, anywas I asked them what kind of oil they used and the response, PENZOIL 10w-30!. I checked a bottle of this and I found not a word or rating for dsl. engines. I'll be call'n the vw hotline today for a response to this mystery, I'm also going to ask them what domestic oils that they do recommend for us tdi owners. Maybe the PENZOIL will be right next to the CASTROL S NTECH on their list of "approved" oils, contrary to their own owners manual recommendations, which are very specific! Is my warranty void due to my own dealers incompetence?--98 jetta tdi for sale.........

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Here is an update regarding my VW Dealer's attempt at using Castrol Syntec motor oil in my TDI, even though there it has no diesel rating: I called Volkswagen of America, and was told that Syntec is indeed approved for the TDI. Well then, the $64,000 ques ion is why doesn't Castrol put a diesel rating on the bottle?

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Nice page, Fred! My decision to purchase my own TDI Jetta was helped along by the informative posts on this site. To date, I'm quite happy with my purchase, although I have two questions I'd like to throw out to the general populace: 1) I've read in places that the particulate matter from diesel engines is a major carcinogen. (I think this may have been covered somewhat in older postings...) How does that impact those of us who drive in these cars every day? Are we at an increased hea th risk? 2) From time to time, I hear little creaks coming from my dashboard -- has anyone else experienced this? I'm a little peeved that things like that are happening in a brand-new car. Do I have recourse through warranty? Thanks in advance! Happy driving! -martin

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If you use the same technique each time that you fill up at the self serve pump, then the amount of foaming shouldn't be significantly different each time. If you use full serve diesel stations, then each pump jockey may have their ouw preffered habits to ards knowing when to say when. Try to use the same day and time of day to inprove the odds of getting the same attendant, if you desire consistency. Otherwise use the totals from several fuelings to obtain an average of several tanks.

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Just like Fred I had to succumb to a gas powered Golf but I haven't regretted it one bit! Any news on the next Golf TDI? I would have bought the Jetta TDI if it offered Automatic transmission. I dislike the Beetle which DOES have automatic transmission unfortunately. I have a medical problem which prevents me from enjoying manual transmission. Regards Stephen

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Re. fuel vent valve relief plunger; it is located on the inside of the fuel filler hole at the 9 o'clock location. In my wagon when I depress the vent relief valve while fueling I am able to fill my tank to 25.5-26 gallons of DSL even though my manual sa s 18.5 gals. After speaking with my local VW dealer in Memphis (worthless) and the Auburn Hills Volks. @ America (worthless) I have come to the conclusion that since I am not finding any diesel in the spare tire wheel well, back seat or under the car th wagon must have an unbelievably large overfill residual capacity. The bad news is that sometimes fill ups can be slow due to foaming and high pressure DSL pumps. The good news is that I often have an 1100 mile range on the highway @ 40-45 mpg which exc eds the range of the driver an occasion. My brother has a '97 4 dr.Passat TDI and can get a couple of extra gallons of DSL, but no where near the 7+ that I have experienced in 53K miles. Any other Passat owners with similar experiences? Enjoy the ride and mileage...

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What is this vent switch thing people are talking about? I've never noticed it.

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Maaaaaaaaaaaaaak, to avoid any errors calculating your fuel mileage, fill up until clear fuel is right near the top of the filler neck, after depressing the vent switch several times while fueling. Simple!

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Just a comment about sudsing at fill up. Would particularly "sudsy" diesel (or fueling style) be the reason that some people are having disappointing milage? I've noticed a pretty significant difference after carefully filling the tank last. It's the f rst time I've touched 200 miles at 3/4 full. I know this would be a bad habbit to get into if I'm literally filling it to the brim, but it sounds like letting the tank settle a moment and checking to see whether there's room to add more, still using auto cut-off in the nozzle, is worth a try. Just my (additional) $.02.

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I just wanted to tell any of you that were still afraid to buy diesel at the truck stop (like I was), not to fear--it isn't so bad. I went to one across the river in Indiana. I had to pay 5 cents over the advertised tax-exempt price of 87.9 (the trucker are exempt, we're not in Indiana, anyway), but it was still 7 cents cheaper than the gasoline that station was selling and 17 cents cheaper than the diesel at a mini-mart in my neighborhood. The fuel does come out faster out of these big nozzles, but I as still able to use the automatic "handle holder" (I don't know what it is called--I made it up) in the lowest position. When it cut off automatically, I just gave it a couple squirts to top it off & it was really full. I didn't notice any foaming pro lems or anything, either.

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New subject... I'd like to offer a few things to TDI owners. First, I have two bitmaps: one of a closeup of a TDI engine compartment, and one of a cutaway TDI engine (perhaps the best I've ever seen). Oh... if you own a Classic Green Jetta, I can send you a photo of my TDI, then you can edit it to make it look like yours. Second, I have a .wav file of the TDI at idle. Seems weird to have one. One guy wanted to buy a TDI, but he wanted to hear how it idled first. So I made the file. Next, I decided I'd lik a reference for TDI performance products/procedures. So I went back in the Guestbook to the day Clay Peyton picked up his Wetterauer chips. From that point, I collected every post regarding TDI performance (mostly his) and compiled them into a single do ument. With his permission, I've edited the file into a single, smoother flowing, readable document (it was a little choppy since it was written on separate occasions for a message board). It's intent is as a compilation of performance observations... not as a technical bible. Finally, some may remember me offering Auto Tracker software. Well, I'll make the offer again since I'm throwing all of this out there. It's an excellent shareware program ($15?) that allows you to track the mileage, maintenance, an payment information for up to six cars. I'd offer their website address, but the creators of the software (whom I don't know or associate with) can't seem to keep one up. Still, the program is simple, yet great to have. It's much cheaper than other progr ms that track things that really don't matter to most people. Let me know if you're interested. There's no catch. If I'm at sea, I'm usually able to reply to requests within 2-3 weeks. If I'm home, you'll hear from me within 24 hours. Take Care, Scott

09/08/98 18:42:27

Name: Scott Farrell	My Email: Email Me
City: Buzzards Bay	Province/State: MA
Country: USA	Your VW/Audi: 98 Jetta TDI w/13000mi

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Hi. I, too, experienced the low-speed bucking when the car is cold. My car only does it from time to time. The stop sign at the end of my street is only 50ft from my driveway. So I don't get up much speed before getting there, plus the car hasn't been unning very long at that point. First thing in the morning (or after the FIRST start up of the day) as I drive toward the sign in first gear with light throttle the car bucks a little. Once I pull away from the sign and get it into second gear the probl m goes away. The next stop sign is 300 ft up the road. No bucking by the time I get there. I've always attributed this problem to a cold engine (I always drive away within seconds of starting the car). Perhaps allowing the car to idle for one minute f rst would provide allow the computer more time to sample enough data to compensate for its "new" surroundings (since the computer samples nothing while turned off). Since it only does it ONCE in a while, I haven't considered taking it to the shop. I may mention it when I take it in for its next oil change. I'll try the -slight- warm up and see if that works. Take Care, Scott

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Clay...I asked my dealer about the bucking when cold and he blamed it on the accelerator. I guess it's an electronic potentiometer (as opposed to mechanical) and it's reading is varying slightly at low throttle. I'm not sure I buy this since the problem went away when I installed the Wetterauer chips. Could it be a sensor or a feedback oscillation between several sensors? The small variations in throttle position seem too insignificant to cause the kind of bucking I felt. This isn't any help, but I'm hrowing out ideas...D'nardo

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VW Campers, Check out this Tippy guy. "Dah!! Volkswagen is Da werst car I ever saw". I suspect Tippy has not seen much in his life. I suspect he is just a kid, or at least has the mind of a child. Anyone who does not know the value of a Volkswagen simply does not know what they are talking about. Take a tip from me Tippy, go buy GM.....Mike.....

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Sounds like "Tippy" is suffering from a major case of New Bettle Envy. He should take up some hobbies or something to take his mind off of it. With any luck, someday he will get over it.

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I had a Honda Accord chosen for my 300km daily drive to and from work. A co-worker said to check out the TDI. Never having even CONSIDERED driving a VW, let alone owning one, I thought he was NUTS!! But, I re-thought his idea, did some number crunching and test drove a Jetta. Crosby VW in Kitchener even let me take it over 500km on the highway. Well, I've owned it for just under 2 months, with over 11,000km on it and couldn't be happier!!! The only thing that surprised me was the way it used oil in the first 8,000km. I only hope I'm as happy in 5 years when it's paid for...Dave

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Jason, I had a retail automotive accessory store for over 2 years and PIAA was one of the lines that we carried. PIAA is from Japan. They are a higher line auxillary light, according to their ads. In reality be prepared to change your bulb/reflector in 6-9 months if you use them with any kind of frequen ey. Cost for bulb/refector? About $30-35. We heard a lot of complaints about bulb life and in speaking with other PIAA dealers we certainly were not the only ones hearing the complaints. PIAA 1000's for $150? You did very well!! If any one is interested in some very compact,powerfull and very white lighting, you need to look into the PLATINUM series from PIAA. I installed the Pla inum 1000 series ( expect to pay $200-230 )on my car and all I can say is that they are truely an excellent driving light. Bulb life so far is much better. The Platinum 1400 would be a terrific fit for a Jetta. For maximum bulb life make sure that you fol ow PIAA's instructons to the letter. Read their tips that come along with their instructions. One of the most important being that you must always turn your lights off BEFORE you turn your car off. The bulbs can not tolertate voltage spikes. If you have an aftermarket alarm system (did those too)and you left your PIAA's on they will flash when you arm/disarm. Believe me you will be changing bulbs/reflectors quite often. This information is based on hund eds of installtions of PIAA products.

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D.P. -- I considered the factory lights, but decided to go with PIAAs, because a friend has some (and I found them to be great, particularly compared to the dim, unassisted headlights on my old Toyota), and they were far cheaper than the Hellas available rom VW. I got some PIAA 1000s for less than $150 -- I've also heard Catz makes good sub $150 lights. I mounted them low, toward the outer edge of the middle "section" on the A3 Jetta. There is a black plastic grille in the middle, and on each side are ittle black plastic panels that snap off. I unsnapped the panels, and stuck the lights in there. They're just about the perfect size for small halogens like the PIAAs or Catz lights. Some VW fanatics like to stick with Hella, perhaps ouyt of some sort f Teutonic allegiance. (I don't actually know where PIAAs are made. They're web page has a .uk domain, but who knows. Catz lights are from Ohio.) Anyway, the Hellas do "blend" better, and PIAAs are more often found on Hondas, or Acuras, or even Camaro or Amigos. But they are nice -- the light is very good, and lights up the edges of the road. (Good for city streets/parking, too, if you keep them aimed low emough not to blind pedestrians.) I got my lights and the switch through Virtual World Parts (w w.parts4vws.com). The folks there are nice, and prices are good, though one of my bulbs arrived broken, necessitating extra shipping charges that they didn't pick up. However, they did include (1) and extra plug and grommet to connect the PIAA wiring to the VW wiring, and directions on installing the lights and Euro switch.

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Greetings: Did an Ontario trip last week and noticed a late model or new VW Eurovan with the TDI badge. Do Canadians get this van? Also, recently the Passat has been "chugging" or jerking again when cold at low speed, with more smoking. This appeared to be correct d with the manifold recall but the same symptoms are appearing again. Anyone else have these symptoms? jeff

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Hello everyone... I was reading through the FAQ (Thanks Fred & Jon) and I saw the mention of "low speed bucking" under the 'quality' heading. My car developed the EXACT same condition about 1 month ago with 28,000 miles on it. It is noticeable with both t e stock & Wetterauer chips with a cold engine. Has anyone who has this problem gotten it fixed? What had to be done? On a side note, I did a comparision of the turbo boost readings between the stock & Wett chips. The max boost with the Wett chips is 20-21psi & the stock chips are 15-16psi. The boost levels between the 2 chips is the same with "regular" driving. I also h d an oil temperature & pyrometer guage added. Maximum oil temperature looks to be 160-170 degrees cruising on the highway. Exhaust temp: The sending unit for the pyrometer is mounted on the downpipe about 5 inches down-stream from the turbo. With regular highway cruising I'm getting a temperature of 550-600 degrees. City driving is around 450-500. The temp readings are the same with both the stock & Wett chips under "regular" driving conditions. According to the gauge, the exh ust temps drop 100 degress for every 1 1/2 minutes of idling. The lowest temp with the engine fully warm after several minutes of idling is 300. I did a sprint from 70 to 110 mph and the temps jumped up to 900, but started to drop almost immediately once started to coast down. It only took about 1 mile of coasting for them to go back to normal levels. If time allows, some time next week we are going to move the oil temp sender to the oil return line coming off the turbo charger to see how hot the oil get after passing through the turbo...should be interesting. Thanks, Clay

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Where is the temp guage?????????????

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I once considered adding the factory projector lights since they have a very clean appearance. However, they're very expensive! So now I'll consider something low-profile that won't obstruct the intercooler or radiator. As far as the gas gauge goes, I've ound that the fuel light comes on right as the needle touches the red portion of the gauge. At that point, my car accepts about 11 US gallons. I guess that's about 100+ more miles 'til "tanks dry." But why risk it? I usually fill up every 500 miles. Take are, Scott

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Any experience out there in adding fog lights to a 1998 jetta tdi? I ordered the factory switch for the Wolfsburg, I understand the wiring is already there. Suggestions on a product. I am having trouble finding "CD" rated oil. Any suggestions? How accurate is the fuel gauge on the tdi? Thanks...proud new owner of a black tdi, roof & alloys..paid $16,500

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Visit my VW page, a must-see for any VW enthusiast!!!!

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I've archived the last 4 months again, to make things shorter. I also have some quick scans online in the TDI Page regarding the new 115 hp TDI.

Have fun
Fred

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has anyone heard any confirmed details regarding the intro of the a4 jetta (with tdi) so far i'm hearing dec98... c.l.

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To answer Chuck: Go to your local NAPA store and ask for the 9004BL (bright light). This bulb has the maximum wattage allowed by law in the US. As for a 9005, 9007, etc. they have roughly the same wattage as a 9004, the mounting/plug shapes are the mai difference.

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Jose, what a coincidence that I was doing the gearing calculations last night. A lower numeric 5th gear won't do much as we already run a .76 and the only available higher gear is .71 which if you multiply by the final drive ratio gives 2.3 turns of the motor or every one turn of the tires, compared to 2.46 for our existing gearing. (Final drive is 3.24:1) Your gear box can't be the gas 'box because you'd be revving at 3500+ at 80 with the gas 'box.

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Hi Fred, I tried to bookmark the faq and wasn't able to get it to stick. I don't know how involved it would be, but do you think you could put the hotlink out on the side of the page like the "leave email"? Thanks! Maaak

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The FAQ of Jon Bartlett is excellent; the organized information is very useful as its very difficult to locate a specific item in the voluminous message listings :) Thank you Jon. It must have been very time consuming, I would imagine.

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Jose...I think something may be off with your gearing. At 3000 rpm, I'm traveling 85 mph, not 80. That's only a 6% difference but I think it's significant. That said, you can get a 5th gear conversion kit from New Dimensions (408/980-1697). They lower rpms by either 12% or 18%. I'm not sure if they'll work with our 02A transmissions, though. You'll have to ask them. One last note, the Jetta tdi is spec'd at 5.8 l/100km at 120 km/h - that translates to 40.5 mpg.

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I already have 7000 miles in the 98TDI and have not managed to get above 42 MPG. Most of my driving is interstate between 75 - 80 MPH and do many occasional incursions into the 90 MPH territory during my 190 mile round trip commute. I have noticed that the RPM’s seem extremely high for the speed and I’m starting to believe the gearbox is not designed to take advantage of a Diesel torque/HP RPM power curve (i.e., its a gasoline box, where high RPM’s are needed to maintain HP and Torque). The Jetta is p shing 3000 plus RPMs at near 80 MPH. I compare that to my Jeep and Ford, which barley get above the 2000 RPM at the same speed. Granted, the Jeep/Ford have 6 cylinder gas engines, but they also have a power curve where the torque comes alive in the hig er RPM range. So the question is: are there any modifications that can be made to the gearbox to have a gear ratio more favorable for a Diesel engine’s high torque/low RPM range? I know Dodge Cummins 5.9L owners get 3 or more MPGs just by switching t e axle ratio from 4.10 to 3.55, but do we have the same option? If I could change the gearing to have the engine run at 2200 RPMs while cruising @ 80 MPH on 5th gear, then that would save a lot of wear and tear, as well as 26% fuel/air mixture. The bon s would be an increase in the MPG to the 50 plus MPG (and even better MPG for those cruising at 55 to 65 MPH). Comments anyone ? and please no remarks about driving slower, or driving at the speed limits—if it were up to me, the speed limit would be 95M H and not 65MPH. I’m not trying to save fuel (bonus), I’m more interested in extending the engine's life by running the TDI engine at the sweet spot of 2200 RPM EUROPEANS: what’s the owner's manual published gear ratio on your TDI’s?

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I would like to get better results from my headlights. #9004 bulbs are stock, and I can't find any higher wattage #9004 bulbs(i.e. 55/100w,or 80/100w). I've looked at #9007 bulbs which have the same base as the #9004 bulb, but everyone says they are not i terchangable. The only reason I can figure this is is because the #9007 bulb is a higher wattage. I would like to know if this is true, and if it is true, what wattage it is, and if I can actually substitute the #9007 bulb for the #9004 bulb.

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There are a lot of VW and Mazda dealerships in the Boston area. (I'm presuming that Scooter worked at a dealership.) Now that he no longer works for VW/Mazda, I can safely bring my car in for work at any of the dealers nearby with the assurance that Scoot r will not be the one working on it. 8-)

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TDI/VW PEOPLE>>>>Don't worry about Scooter. With a name like that what do you think he's driving?.....Mike...Out...

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K&N Filters are available from Summit Racing Equipment. 1800-230-3030 for around 43 bucks. I have ordered from them numerous times and they are pleasant to deal with. I have a K&N in my tdi and the only downside is increased air noise when the turbo spools up. The part number is KNN-33-2069.

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Gee, scooter, thanks for that very positive input. Do you have any other words of enlightenment for us poor saps who've wasted our dough on VW products?

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This is directed to Bryce Hunt in Colorado. For K&N Air Filters contact Diesel Injection Service.Their website is:www.dieselpage.com. I bought a K&N air filter for each of my cars from them. They also carry the cleaner and oil to reoil the filter after it has been washed. They also sell Stanadyne Fuel Additives if your interested.

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Get a life buddy I have worked for V W and mazda for 10 years and the VW product is the worst most unreliable product I have ever seen.

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Get a life buddy I have worked for V W and mazda for 10 years and the VW product is the worst most unreliable product I have ever seen.

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<> I had a similar problem with my old Golf. It was the engine mounts To check them, lift the hood. Start the car, put the trans in 1st. With the parking brake set, bob the clutch in and out enough to make the car tug in place. Watch the engine. If your front mount is bad, the engine will tilt toward you. Try the same i reverse. If the engine jerks away from you, the rear mount is bad. I don't know how to check the side mounts, but once you get that sort of an indication you may want a more professional opinion anyway. I know that sounds nuts, but that's what the dealer will do. To ensure the CV joints are good, drive in slow tight circles in a parking lot. If you hear clunking, a CV joint is bad. I hope this helps.

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Does the ECM/Injector TSB work come under the lame 2year/24K warrenty or the longer power train warrentee. I've got 47K on my bought-used Passat and tried to have this work done. Also, another problem. When I accelerate from a stop, I hear a clunk from the front end. It is louder when accelerating hard. There is also a clunk when I decelerate or when the car goes over a speed bump. It clearly is not right, but a dealer could not ind the cause. Any body have a clue?

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I have been trying to get a K&N Air Filter from Neuspeed (805) 388-7171 for a couple weeks now, but their K&N Delivery is delayed and their customer service is not up to par. Does anyone know of any other K&N Retailers I can contact ?

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To the earlier post about Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) engines, try: http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/inter/technology/GDIEC/index.html. This even had a 50 slide show presentation in HTML format that you could watch which really showed GDI vs. TDI q ite well. One thing to note, I've read that the GDI engines will need to be rebuilt more often than even a conventional engine. It has something to do with wear conditions on an ultra-lean burn engine and its piston rings having a problem with lubricati n. I was on an engine rebuild manufacturers site where they mentioned the need to plate the cylinder walls with some exotic metal that gets rubbed off and that no current engine remanufacturer has this ability but needs to prepare for this because this i what the future is bringing. They mentioned the Mitsubishi GDI and (I think) some Toyota GDI engine, both capable of up to a 55:1 air-fuel ratio. Neither engine will be available in the US until something can be done with the impurities and the sulpher we have in our gasoline. Maybe you have it better in Turkey. Hope this helps. -- Aaron M.

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A correction in my previous post: VW 502.00 covers VW 500.00, VW 501.00 and VW 505.00 Sorry Tin

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Hello TDI fellows! I just want to add some answers to some of the questions recently posted in the guest book. To Zafer: I have just got an email from Volkswagen of Norway answering my question about motor oil for TDIs. You can use Mobil 1 5W50 synthetic. This oil is rated VW 501.00/VW 505.00. This covers all diesel and gasoline engines from Volkswagen. VW is going to prese t a new spec.: VW 502.00. This will cover the earlier VW 500.00, VW 501.00 and VW 501.00. In other words: VW 501.00/VW505.00 = VW 502.00. According to my car's manual the TDI requires VW 500.00/VW 505.00 (synthetic oil). To Espen You could try the Automobilia bookstore in Oslo. They have workshop manual for all types of cars from Haynes, Bentley etc. I find the Haynes book OK for my purpose. Tin

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Please inform me about the URL adress related GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) end CDI (common rail direct injection)specifications. I need satisfactory information. Thanks in advance

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OK HERE IS THE QUESTION.... WHAT KIND OF MOTOR OIL SHOULD I USE FOR MY FIRST OIL CHANGE? I KNOW IABOUT THE CD RATING BUT WHAT BRAND?....AND I DO ONLY HAVE ABOUT 1500 MILES ON AND IM DOWN A 1/2 A QT. IS THIS NORMAL ON A NEW DIESEL.ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATL APPRECIATED...THIS OIL CONSUMPTION HAS ME AFFRAID... IS THIS THE NORM?

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OK HERE IS THE QUESTION.... WHAT KIND OF MOTOR OIL SHOULD I USE FOR MY FIRST OIL CHANGE? I KNOW IABOUT THE CD RATING BUT WHAT BRAND?....AND I DO ONLY HAVE ABOUT 1500 MILES ON AND IM DOWN A 1/2 A QT. IS THIS NORMAL ON A NEW DIESEL.ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATL APPRECIATED...THIS OIL CONSUMPTION HAS ME AFFRAID... IS THIS THE NORM?

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